The Business of Fashion Podcast

i-D magazine was founded in 1980 by Terry and Tricia Jones, pioneering a new kind of fashion storytelling that mixed street style with high fashion, always with an eye — and a wink — to the future. The magazine has had its ups and downs, and in 2023 fell victim to the bankruptcy of Vice, which had acquired i-D from its founders in 2012. Enter Karlie Kloss and her burgeoning media company, Bedford Media, which has plans to revitalise i-D under a new editor-in-chief, Thom Bettridge with experience at 032c, Interview, Highsnobiety, and Ssense. Now, Bettridge is on a mission to re-establish i-D as a cultural institution for a new generation — one that values community over clicks and retention over viral attention. “I've worked on viral covers and while they can do so much for your exposure as a small brand, at the end of the day, it's really like a sugar high. That famous person's fans are there to see the person they like. Not that many of them actually stick around,” says Bettridge. “We're moving from this attention era to a retention era, where the smarter brands are figuring out how to build a narrative people are invested in.” Bettridge joins BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed to talk about his journey to i-D and what it takes to relaunch an iconic title for a new era. Key Insights: Additional Resources: i-D Magazine Appoints Thom Bettridge Editor in Chief Op-Ed | Go Big or Go Hyper-Niche Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Once a dominant player in fast fashion, Forever 21 recently filed for bankruptcy for the second time in six years, marking the likely end of its run as a physical retailer. The chain, known for introducing ultra-affordable, trend-driven clothing to American malls, struggled to remain relevant as competitors like Zara, H&M, and later Shein and Temu offered faster, cheaper, and more digitally-savvy alternatives. After its initial bankruptcy in 2019, Forever 21 was acquired by Authentic Brands Group and mall operator Simon Property Group, but despite various turnaround attempts – including unusual collaborations and international relaunches – it failed to recapture its former success. Retail editor Cathaleen Chen joins The Debrief to unpack what Forever 21’s fall says about the future of fast fashion. Key Insights: Additional Resources: The Year Ahead: Deconstructing Fast Fashion’s Future | BoF Why Shein Keeps Buying Its Rivals | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Demna's move to Gucci, announced after weeks of feverish speculation, stunned industry observers and sent shockwaves through financial markets, with Kering shares dropping sharply by more than 12%. While some hail this as an opportunity for Demna to reinvent Gucci through his distinctive cultural lens, others question his ability to break free from his Balenciaga legacy.. BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed posits, “The really big question here is, can Demna do something different?” Meanwhile, Donatella Versace’s transition from Chief Creative Officer to Chief Brand Ambassador marks the end of a storied era and the beginning of a new chapter under Dario Vitale. Highlighting Donatella’s cultural impact, BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks notes, “Versace was one of the few names that registered with people who didn't know anything about fashion.” Fresh off a stellar tenure at Miu Miu, where he helped to ignite record growth, Vitale faces the ambitious task of balancing Versace's iconic legacy with a renewed contemporary relevance. With whispers of potential acquisition by Prada Group swirling, Versace stands at the precipice of transformation. Additional Resources: Why Gucci Picked Demna | BoF Dario Vitale to Succeed Donatella Versace as Chief Creative Officer of Versace | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

This season, all eyes were on the debuts of Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Sarah Burton at Givenchy. Meanwhile, designs at Alaïa and Valentino continued to push boundaries with daring silhouettes that either stood away from the body or felt purposely incomplete. Behind the new faces and unconventional shapes was a deeper exploration of eroticism. From Ackermann’s sensual glamour at Tom Ford to what Tim Blanks calls the “quiet eroticism” of Burton’s Givenchy, designers seemed united by a playful fascination with the body — and a desire to subtly challenge its boundaries. “Fashion is a very fetishistic art form,” says Tim Blanks, BoF’s editor-at-large. “It has its fixations on the body and the way it fetishizes objects, but fashion is about fetishizing beauty and ugliness. A lot of these different things have been coming up over the last few years.” Following the conclusion of the Autumn/Winter 2025 shows, Blanks sits down with BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed to discuss the highlights of fashion month. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Sarah Burton’s Givenchy Debut: First Principles Take FlightAckermann and Ford: A Deliciously Dangerous Liaison Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young speak with editorial associate Yola Mzizi about how regulatory restrictions and cultural conservatism are forcing sexual wellness brands to pivot their messaging in 2025. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Born in Sardinia on a sailing boat to self-described “adventurous” parents, Francesco Risso grew up in an environment that fostered independence, spontaneity and a deep need to create. After formative years at Polimoda, FIT and Central Saint Martins — where he studied under the late Louise Wilson — he joined Prada, learning firsthand how to fuse conceptual exploration with a product that resonates in everyday life. Now at Marni, Risso continues to embrace a method he likens to an artist’s studio, championing bold experimentation and surrounding himself with collaborators who push each other to new heights of creativity. “Creativity is … in the way we give love to the things that we make and then we give to people. I feel I don’t see so much of that love around,” says Risso. “We have to inject into products a strong and beautiful sense of making. That requires craft, it requires skills, it requires a lot of fatigue, it requires discipline.” Risso joins BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his unconventional childhood shaped his creative approach, why discipline and craft remain vital to fashion, and how meaningful collaboration can expand the boundaries of what’s possible. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Francesco Risso | BoF 500 | The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry Exclusive: Inside Hoka’s Fashion Ambitions | BoFBackstage Pass | Marni and the Thread of Beauty | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Once hailed as a pioneering platform for online luxury, Farfetch is now undergoing a dramatic operational overhaul. The South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang acquired the luxury marketplace in 2023, rescuing it from near-bankruptcy. Since then, Coupang has implemented sweeping cost-cutting measures that have narrowed losses significantly, but are eroding Farfetch’s footing in the luxury e-commerce space and alienating its core customers. DTC correspondent Malique Morris joins Executive Editor Brian Baskin and Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to examine Farfetch’s path to profitability. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Inside Coupang’s Tug of War With Farfetch | BoFFarfetch Owner Coupang: Everything You Need to Know | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

James Whitner — founder of The Whitaker Group and the visionary behind retailers such as A Ma Maniére and Social Status — reveals how culture, purpose, and empathy drive his approach to business. Whitner witnessed firsthand how marginalised communities often face limited options, shaping his commitment to serving communities typically overlooked by the fashion industry. “I think what helped me understand life is difficult, it's just seeing a difficult life, right? Watching people struggle and seeing that there is privilege in pain,” says Whitner, about growing up in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. “When I look at what we’re creating now, it has purpose and is about standing up Black culture at the centre,” Whitner adds. “Everything is about real experiences and connections to people.” This week on the BoF Podcast, founder and CEO Imran Amed sits down with Whitner to explore his journey, learn about the driving force behind The Whitaker Group’s community-centric retail experiences, and understand why authenticity and cultural connection are non-negotiables in today’s fashion landscape. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Streetwear Maven James Whitner Launches A Ma Maniére’s First In-House Line | BoFWhere Are Fashion’s Black CEOs? | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The revelation this year of child labour in India’s cotton fields and modern-day slavery in Taiwanese garment factories is the latest scandal concerning worker treatment in fashion’s supply chain. New abuses keep emerging despite efforts by brands, manufacturers, activists, and governments to set clear labour guidelines. Watchdog groups try new tactics to combat the problem, but they face systemic forces far beyond fashion. Sustainability editor Sarah Kent joins executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to discuss the problematic labour dynamics underpinning the fashion system. Key Insights: Additional Resources: ‘Ethical’ Cotton Is Being Picked by Child Labourers in India, Watchdog Finds | BoFWhy Can’t Fashion Eliminate Labour Exploitation From Its Supply Chains? | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Giles Duley began his photography career at an enviable pinnacle, shooting for GQ and Vogue and even touring with Oasis. Despite this early success, he found himself unfulfilled by the culture and sought a greater sense of purpose. Over time, his lens shifted from backstage glamour to the frontlines of conflict, where he began documenting the impact of war on ordinary lives. A life-altering moment came in Afghanistan when an IED explosion claimed three of his limbs, yet Duley returned to conflict zones with a renewed commitment to capturing stories of love and resilience. “There is a connection from where I started to where I am now which is stories and empathy,” he says. “There’s the story, there’s the storyteller, and then there’s the amplifier. And what brands and individuals can do is be those amplifiers to make sure those stories are heard around the world. … I've realised the way I live my best life is to make sure others are living their best life – and that is my purpose.” Through his Legacy of War Foundation, Giles demonstrates how creativity and empathy can break down barriers, urging each of us to use our own platforms and talents to enact meaningful change. Key Insights: Additional Resources: BoF VOICES 2024: The Power of Purpose Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Gucci has long been the shining star of Kering’s luxury portfolio, but the brand's recent struggles have exposed weaknesses in the conglomerate’s position. Gucci’s sales plummeted 24 percent in the fourth quarter of 2024, dragging Kering’s overall performance down by 12 percent. The shock departure of Creative Director Sabato De Sarno after less than two years only deepens the group’s instability. Luxury editor Robert Williams joins executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to discuss how Gucci’s downturn is affecting Kering’s broader portfolio, why its attempt at a creative reset didn’t resonate, and what’s next for the group as it searches for a new vision. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Can Kering Bounce Back From Its ‘Annus Horribilis’? | BoFThe Problems with Gucci and Dior | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In an intimate conversation at BoF VOICES 2024, world-renowned stage designer Es Devlin and writer and cultural curator Ekow Eshun discuss the transformative potential of human connection. Emerging from a desire to confront her own biases, Devlin’s “Congregation” project invited 50 Londoners from immigrant backgrounds to be drawn and displayed inside St. Mary le Strand church in London. Eshun’s new book, “The Strangers”, likewise interrogates racial identity and belonging through the stories of five Black men spanning centuries and continents. “I'm not the same person at all,” says Devlin, reflecting on her experience. “I'm a bit more raw as a consequence of writing [The Strangers] because … you have to open yourself up to pain and fraughtness,” adds Eshun. Devlin and Eshun investigate how “otherness” shapes our sense of belonging and argue that true understanding requires a radical willingness to open ourselves to one another — and, in the process, rediscover parts of ourselves. Key Insights: Additional Resources: BoF VOICES 2024: Global Culture and Creativity The BoF Podcast | Es Devlin on Collaboration, Creativity and Stage Craft Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Estée Lauder was long celebrated as a pioneer in prestige beauty, building a global empire on the strength of family legacy, innovative product lines, smart acquisitions and a high-touch in-store experience. However in recent years, the company has lost its wat on each of those strategies, leaving it poorly equipped to stay on top of rapidly shifting consumer tastes. In its latest earnings call, new CEO Stéphane de La Faverie candidly acknowledged that the company had “lost its agility,” and promised to quickly implement an ambitious modernisation plan. The Debrief explores how Estée Lauder’s legacy is now proving to be a burden, and how it can still overcome its challenges. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Estée Lauder Knows How to Cut Costs. Can It Also Rebuild Growth?A First-Day Agenda for Estée Lauder’s New CEO Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

“Will India be the next China?” is a question that’s circulated throughout the fashion industry for years. Even as its population and economy both surge, India’s cultural tapestry and fragmented retail landscape set it apart from its northern neighbour. At BoF VOICES 2024, Ravi Thakran drew on his experiences pioneering luxury growth for Swatch in 1990s China and leadership of LVMH in Asia to share his unique insights on the many differences between the world’s two most populous countries, and why European luxury brands have not yet managed to really crack the Indian market. “India is now across China and growing faster. But when it comes to the luxury market — talk of any brand, be it Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Louis Vuitton, Cartier — India is less than 1%,” says Thakran. “India's stupendous growth is right in front of us, but the bulk of that growth is led by a very young population with a very low per capita income. So if you are an aspirational player, go to India today. This will be your biggest play going forward. In luxury, you still have to work.” Thakran unpacks the dynamics of economic growth in India, explains why its path won’t mirror China’s, and shares insights on how to succeed in one of the world’s most complex yet promising markets. Key Insights: Additional Resources: BoF VOICES 2024: Fashion’s Next Moves Where Fashion Is Finding Growth in Asia as China Stalls | BoF Luxury’s China Priorities in the Year of the Snake | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

After a prolonged slowdown, fashion’s M&A market is springing back to life. A combination of falling interest rates, shifting investor sentiment and optimism around economic policy has fuelled a wave of early 2025 deals. Within the first few weeks of the year, brands like True Religion and Kapital were acquired by private equity firms and holding companies, signalling renewed confidence in fashion investments. However, not all acquisitions are about aggressive growth. Some buyers specialise in “managed decline,” acquiring struggling brands to extend their lifespan through licensing or cost-cutting. Others, including private equity firms and strategic buyers, see opportunities to scale promising brands by injecting capital and expertise. “The key for a lot of these companies in finding buyers is proving that their brands are still worth it and can weather these economic cycles and lulls in the market,” shared e-commerce correspondent Malique Morris. Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sat down with Morris to break down the latest deals, the brands poised for sale, and what it all means for fashion in 2025 and beyond. Key Insights: Additional Resources: What’s Behind the 2025 M&A Wave | BoF Fashion’s Most Anticipated M&A Hot Spots in 2025 | BoF Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In a special episode, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed joins Bob Safian on The Rapid Response podcast. “This is probably the most severe crisis that I've seen in the luxury side of the fashion industry since the Great Recession of 2008,” says Amed. “The business model and approach that the luxury industry has been using for the last decade or so is running out of steam.” In their conversation, Amed and Safian discuss the cracks in the current luxury formula, the untapped potential in older demographics, and how brand and product innovation have the potential to revive the sector. Key Insights: Additional Resources: The State of Fashion: Luxury | BoFLuxury Slowdown Could Last Longer Than Previous Crises, Chanel Watches and Jewellery President WarnsThe BoF Podcast | The Great Luxury E-Commerce Reckoning Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The fashion workplace is evolving, shaped by a wave of technological advancements, leadership changes, and cultural dynamics. For many employees, adapting to these changes has become a challenge, while employers must navigate how to foster connection, retain talent, and drive innovation. Executive editor Brian Baskin sits with commercial features editorial director Sophie Soar and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to unpack how businesses can create thriving workplaces in 2025, the role of soft skills in a tech-driven era, and what it takes to re-engage an increasingly disconnected workforce. “In the face of AI and more technology coming in, it is more important to have a human element. What does a human do well? That’s why soft skills are a huge focus,” says Butler-Young. Meanwhile, Soar highlights the growing challenges of employee disengagement, stating, “We are incredibly disengaged as a workforce. Trying to get employees to buy back into what they’re doing and be part of the workplace is going to be really challenging.” Key Insights: Additional Resources: How to Future-Proof Your Fashion Career in 2025From Trump to Gen-Z, Fashion Faces a Culture QuakeBoF Careers Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Tim Gunn is best known as the wise, empathetic mentor on television’s Project Runway, but before he found himself guiding the next generation of designers on screen, he spent time teaching and shaping the fashion curriculum at Parsons, where he helped nurture some of the most influential names in American fashion. His journey began in Washington, D.C., where early struggles with bullying and a desire to understand his own creativity led him toward mentoring and educating others. Now, as the industry grapples with change on multiple fronts, Gunn offers his unique perspective on what it really takes to succeed today — in life and in fashion. “Life is a huge collaboration. We need other people. We’re not intended to be solos. And no one should think, ‘I can deal with this and solve this myself,’” says Gunn. This week on The BoF Podcast, Gunn opens up about how his early trials shaped his remarkable career, why he left his art practice behind to focus on teaching and mentorship, and how he sees the future of American fashion. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Television's Power to Launch Fashion Brands Remains Unproven | BoFHow Independent Brands Can Thrive in a Fashion World Ruled by Giants Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Brand collaborations were once rare, highly anticipated events that generated significant buzz. But as they have become more frequent, the challenge lies in creating partnerships that genuinely resonate with consumers and cut through the noise. This week, executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi and editorial fellow Julia Lebossé to explore the state of brand collaborations, what makes them succeed or fail, and where they’re headed next. To work, collaborations need to feel authentic. For brands, “letting their collaborators take the wheel and just do what they want to do is really key,” says Takanashi. “When brands collaborate successfully, it’s often because they give creative freedom to the collaborator, allowing them to use the materials they want and tell a story that feels true to their audience,” adds Lebossé. Key Insights: Additional Resources: Why Fashion Needs the Art World More Than Ever | BoFWhy Are Sneaker Collaborations So Boring? Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In today’s fashion landscape, many of us find ourselves caught in an infinite scroll of influencers. But in 2024, one couple captured the internet’s attention like no other: Lucky Blue Smith and Nara Smith. From making cereal from scratch to becoming one of fashion’s most sought-after duos, their rise has sparked both praise and criticism. For millions of people following online, their content offers a glimpse of domestic bliss and authenticity; for others, it raises eyebrows, stoking wild conspiracy theories. As a result, the young couple has found themselves in the glare of the social media spotlight. And as the Smiths revealed at BoF VOICES 2024, they’ve come to learn that not everyone will understand who they really are. “It’s the internet. You can’t believe everything you hear and see,” Lucky says. “People really see through all the fakeness. And if you're really authentic, then that's really compelling to a lot of people,” adds Nara. Key Insights: Additional Resources: BoF VOICES 2024: The Power of Purpose BoF VOICES 2024 Concludes With Gala Celebration Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.