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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

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Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Location:

United States

Description:

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

Language:

English


Episodes

Episode #40: Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers

10/8/2019
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In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Camp 4 Human Performance in Salt Lake City. This is my first podcast interview in about a decade--I believe my last audio interview was with Alex Honnold soon after his free solo of Half Dome (2008). Maybe some day I'll dig out that podcast from the audio vault and post it here! But I digress. The focus of this podcast is Blood...

Duration:00:52:07

Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing

9/4/2019
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This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, and shoulders are common among beginners and expert alike. Eric lays out the perfect storm of factors that make upper extremity overuse injuries so common. You will learn countermeasures to reduce your injury risk and increase tendon health and finger flexor pulley strength. If you engage in hard...

Duration:01:21:06

Episope #38: Ask Coach Horst (Round 6 of Training For Climbing Questions)

8/6/2019
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In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating healing of an A2 pulley injury. Listen in! Podcast Rundown 4:57 - Question #1 - How important is a climbing-specific aerobic training block at the...

Duration:00:52:25

Episode #37: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers

7/1/2019
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What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things...

Duration:00:53:38

Episode #36: Training to Increase Tendon Strength, Muscle Power, and Connective Tissue Health!

6/6/2019
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Sinew training. What the heck is that? Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" dictate the properties of our tendons and ligaments, right? WRONG! A growing body of recent research has shown that athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, higher performing tendons and ligaments by way of specific training and nutritional interventions. If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical...

Duration:01:24:52

Episode #35: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 5

5/13/2019
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In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science of "supercompensation", the use of gymnastic exercises in training, dealing with recurrent injuries, fingerboard training, mental training and "head space" development, endurance training, running, and more! It's 45 minutes of training-for-climbing information and fun. Listen in! Podcast Rundown 4:48 - Question #1 - What exactly is...

Duration:00:48:37

Episode #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers

4/21/2019
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This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever! If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain...then this podcast could be a game-changer for you. Traditionally, tendons and ligaments (such as the A2 pulleys of the fingers) have been viewed as inert structures that changed little after adolescence. We now know, however, that these connective tissues are dynamic and...

Duration:01:00:51

Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments

4/1/2019
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Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers! The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons and ligament pulleys of the fingers, as well as the elbows and shoulders; so what could be more valuable to climbers than strategies to improve sinew...

Duration:01:09:10

Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance

1/10/2019
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New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your performance to the next level—in climbing or anything—demands CHANGE, courage and commitment, and consistent goal-focused action. In this episode, Eric takes you through a series of thought-provoking exercises and, along the way, he will arm you with powerful techniques and tips to make massive progress toward your climbing and non-climbing...

Duration:01:07:18

Episode #31: Hangboard Training Tips & Research

12/7/2018
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This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valuable tips on organizing your hangboard training for optimal results and continued gains in the long-term! Rundown 0:22 - Introduction 2:00 -...

Duration:01:05:29

Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips

11/3/2018
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0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France. 10:40 - Research highlight #1: 3-D motion analysis of speed climbing performance, and interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route. (Lionel Reveret - France). 14:45 - Research highlight #2: Effect of climbing hold depth on biomechanical arm action during pull-ups. (Laurent Vigouroux - France) 22:55...

Duration:01:09:19

Episode #29: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 4

10/2/2018
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In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard training, the importance of developing a climbing "talent stack", details on Threshold training for climbing-specific aerobic development, training while recovering from a lower-leg injury, training for middle-aged climbers, and more! Podcast Rundown 1:35 - Question #1 - A two-part question on effective hangboard training...with a long, detailed...

Duration:01:03:33

Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science

8/28/2018
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This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science will empower you to elevate your training outcomes...and climb harder! Podcast Rundown 2:50 – Recap of the genesis of my study of energy systems more...

Duration:01:28:40

Episode #27: Ask Coach Horst - Round 3

7/28/2018
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Welcome to Round #3 of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I will answer 6 listener questions that I believe you will find interesting and informative. This episode covers wide-ranging topics from the pros/cons of calorie restriction vs. surplus, the possible unintended consequences of a vegan diet or vegetarianism, training while on business trips, training during long spells between climbing trips, the type of training program that's best for an intermediate (~5.10 climber), and more! 4:58 -...

Duration:00:52:00

Episode #26: Energy System Training (part 4) - Aerobic Power!

6/21/2018
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This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems as a guiding model to train more effectively. This epic 90-minute episode breaks down the nuance of properly training both the climbing-specific and generalized aerobic energy system—a critical and often-overlooked metabolic pathway that contributes significantly to power production in climbing and, importantly, drives most of the recovery process between moves, crux sequences, climbing, and even boulder problems. There's...

Duration:01:29:30

Episode #25: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 2)

6/1/2018
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Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis and more! Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. 1:12 - Question #1 - When fingerboard training with weighted hangs...what's the weight-added difference when doing 10" x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7"/53" x 3 protocol? 5:17 - Question #2 - Is training individual...

Duration:00:56:14

Episode #24: Energy System Training (part 3) - Anaerobic Capacity Training

5/11/2018
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This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for improved training results and climbing performance. This episode is the conclusion of podcast #23 (on training the Anaerobic Lactic energy system) and it details specific training protocols for improving short, intermediate, and long power endurance. Combined, episodes #23 and #24 make for a super-sized (2+ hours!) brain-bursting, muscle-pumping training for climbing...

Duration:01:00:48

Episode #23: Energy System Training (part 2) - Anaerobic Lactic System

5/6/2018
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This is the second in a five-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This episode (and the next) focus specifically on the Anaerobic Lactic energy system and how to best train for adaptations that will increase your anaerobic capacity. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully...

Duration:00:57:17

Episode #22: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 1)

4/12/2018
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As a change-up to my typical long-format, single-topic drill down podcast, I present to you the first episode of "Ask Coach Hörst"! Listen in as I answer 10 listener questions covering a wide range of topics from in-season fingerboard training, training for big wall stamina, training to excel at climbing AND another sport, and much more. Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment the pinned post on my Twitter...

Duration:00:55:50

Episode #21: Energy System Training (part 1) - Alactic Power Training

3/25/2018
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This is the first of a two-part FIVE-part in-depth look at energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully and accurately applying my energy system training guidelines, you will better target individual energy systems to improve cellular signaling and reduce...

Duration:01:17:37