Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast-logo

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Sports & Recreation Podcasts >

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
More Information

Location:

United States

Description:

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

Language:

English


Episodes

Episode #27: Ask Coach Horst - Round 3

7/28/2018
More
Welcome to Round #3 of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I will answer 6 listener questions that I believe you will find interesting and informative. This episode covers wide-ranging topics from the pros/cons of calorie restriction vs. surplus, the possible unintended consequences of a vegan diet or vegetarianism, training while on business trips, training during long spells between climbing trips, the type of training program that's best for an intermediate (~5.10 climber), and more! 4:58 -...

Duration:00:52:00

Episode #26: Energy System Training -- Part 4 (Aerobic Training)

6/21/2018
More
This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems as a guiding model to train more effectively. This epic 90-minute episode breaks down the nuance of properly training both the climbing-specific and generalized aerobic energy system—a critical and often-overlooked metabolic pathway that contributes significantly to power production in climbing and, importantly, drives most of the recovery process between moves, crux sequences, climbing, and even boulder problems. There's...

Duration:01:29:30

Episode #25: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 2)

6/1/2018
More
Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis and more! Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. 1:12 - Question #1 - When fingerboard training with weighted hangs...what's the weight-added difference when doing 10" x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7"/53" x 3 protocol? 5:17 - Question #2 - Is training individual...

Duration:00:56:14

Episode #24: Energy System Training (Part 3 of Series)

5/11/2018
More
This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for improved training results and climbing performance. This episode is the conclusion of podcast #23 (on training the Anaerobic Lactic energy system) and it details specific training protocols for improving short, intermediate, and long power endurance. Combined, episodes #23 and #24 make for a super-sized (2+ hours!) brain-bursting, muscle-pumping training for climbing...

Duration:01:00:48

Episode #23: Energy System Training - Part 2a

5/6/2018
More
This is the second in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This episode (and the next) focus specifically on the Anaerobic Lactic energy system and how to best train for adaptations that will increase your anaerobic capacity. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By...

Duration:00:57:17

Episode #22: Ask Coach Hörst (Round 1)

4/12/2018
More
As a change-up to my typical long-format, single-topic drill down podcast, I present to you the first episode of "Ask Coach Hörst"! Listen in as I answer 10 listener questions covering a wide range of topics from in-season fingerboard training, training for big wall stamina, training to excel at climbing AND another sport, and much more. Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment the pinned post on my Twitter...

Duration:00:55:50

Episode #21: Energy System Training -- Part 1 (Alactic System Training)

3/25/2018
More
This is the first of a two-part in-depth look at energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully and accurately applying my energy system training guidelines, you will better target individual energy systems to improve cellular signaling and reduce...

Duration:01:17:37

Episode #20: Autoregulation, Running & Climbing, and Hörst Family Winter Training

2/18/2018
More
This episode covers a lot of territory…beginning with a look at the very unique Hörst family winter training program. Next up, is a deep look into using autoregulation to adjust your daily training for optimal results. The podcast wraps up with a look at the benefits (or not?) of running as part of a training-for-climbing program. Podcast Rundown 0:15 Podcast introduction on the 3 main topics: Horst training, autoregulation, and running. 2:00 Eric’s announces winners of T4C raffle…the...

Duration:01:13:25

Episode #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy, & Performance in the New Year!

12/31/2017
More
I hope you’ll find this New Year’s podcast informative, thought-provoking, and mobilizing! After all, uncommon success comes to people who have big dreams, a clear vision and plan, and a bias for action—these are the keys to success in the climbing world…and the everyday world! In this podcast I serve up 5 generalized tips for improving your training and climbing-related activities to perform better and achieve more in 2018. Towards the end of the podcast I also serve up 5 tips becoming...

Duration:01:17:44

Episode #18: Winter/Off-Season Training Strategy

11/28/2017
More
Learn a proven and effective approach to off-season training, broken down for beginner-, intermediate-, and advanced/pro-level climbers. Eric discusses how to handle nagging injuries, refresh motivation, and develop an winter-season training strategy to climbing your hardest next year! Podcast Rundown 1:00 - Podcast introduction including a discussion of new projects and my T4C YouTube channel. 2:00 - Brief intro to Jerry Moffatt's MasterMind...the best-selling Gimme Kraft, and Claudia...

Duration:00:57:23

Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling

10/24/2017
More
If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you! While the fear of falling is most acute among beginner and intermediate climbers, it's a fact that advanced climbers and the pros also experience a bit of falling fear from time to time. After all, fear is an important self-protective response—the goal, then, isn’t to eliminate fear, but to manage it…which is the focus of this podcast. My Lithuanian friends, Dei and Ben, have created a series of...

Duration:01:19:00

Episode #16: The Future of Training for Climbing

9/16/2017
More
Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in training & testing technologies, nuanced program design, and genetic testing and epigenetics. This is a fascinating podcast rich with clues for improving the effectiveness of your training, reducing injury risk, pursuing your genetic potential, and for living longer and prospering in the vertical world. If you enjoy this podcast, please share it with your climbing friends via social...

Duration:01:10:17

Episode #15: Reflections on a Roadtrip & 5 Training/Performance Myths BUSTED!

8/10/2017
More
In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents many practical tips for climbing your best on a roadtrip…and for training in safe and effective ways, by steering clear of popular training myths and dogma. Rundown 1:10 – Reflections on a roadtrip—tips for performing your best while on an extended climbing trip. 3:20 – Learn about the “golden period” of a roadtrip—when you are typically the strongest and most powerful…and be able to climb the hardest. 4:10 – Why the best-trained climbers actually...

Duration:01:00:56

Episode #14: Performance Climbing Tips for Weekend Warriors

7/1/2017
More
If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train indoors during the week with the goal of climbing your best outdoors on the weekend. In this podcast we’ll dig deep into the rich topic of things you can do to optimize your weekend climbing. I’ll cover a wide range of things—perhaps a few that you’ve not thought about—you can do to arrive at the crag fresh and ready to send your project, on-sight at a high level, or climb for volume and maximum fun!...

Duration:01:21:27

Episode #13: Structuring Your Off-Season & In-Season Training for Peak Performance

6/2/2017
More
Climbing is one of the most complex sports on this third rock from the sun, and training for climbing is an extraordinarily complex activity in its own right. While beginners should mainly climb as their training, progressing from the intermediate rank to advanced and elite ability demands an increasingly focused, demanding, and nuanced climbing-specific exercise program. In this podcast I'll provide an overview of how to best structure your off-season (for many of us, winter season) and...

Duration:01:03:49

Episode #12: The "10-4 Rule" for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement

5/1/2017
More
A question I'm often asked is how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route, before taking a break and working on other climbs. My short answer (with a few caveats) is that it’s best not to get bogged down by long-haul projects—you will improve as a climber faster by sending lots of routes just below your limit, rather than hanging all over (and repeatedly falling off) a single project route that's beyond your limit. In this podcast I'll detail my "10-4 Rule" of...

Duration:00:30:54

Episode #11: Training for Climbing: The Past, The Present, The Future.

4/1/2017
More
Podcast #11 Training: The Past, The Present, The Future This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than single-topic focused, as in the previous podcasts. I hope you enjoy it! 00:15 - Introduction to Podcast #11 00:46 – The breakthrough climbing achievement of the year….Margo Hayes ascent of La Rambla, the first consensus 5.15a redpoint by a female. 3:05 – Similarities between Margo Hayes and Alex Megos – Smart training with a long-term perspective. 6:55 – Feature topic:...

Duration:00:39:04

Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength

3/1/2017
More
In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support. Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass). While there are many different fingerboard training methods/protocols/programs (some...

Duration:00:55:00

Episode #9: 5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter

2/1/2017
More
While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific ways. Numerous research studies have confirmed that elite climbers, compared with non-elites, have higher grip-strength-to-mass ratio, greater forearm endurance, and a higher rate of force development in the finger flexors. Therefore, assuming that you have solid technical and mental skills, training...

Duration:00:20:55

Episode #8: Tips for Effective Winter Gym Training

1/1/2017
More
Welcome to the launch of the new Training for Climbing podcast! This is one full hour of rich training-for-climbing content, so you may want to take notes or listen twice! Here's an outline of the show: 1:00 - Podcast overview 8:30 - Topic #1: Training program design 9:45 - Beginner-training program tips 14:20 - Effective training for intermediate-level climbers 17:45 - Advance & elite off-season program design 22:15 - Periodization schemes 30:00 - Topic #2: The importance of...

Duration:01:03:00