The Cutting Edge
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Jim Donini in Patagonia (Ep. 5)
Jim Donini first climbed in Patagonia way back in 1974, and in 1976 he made the first ascent of Torre Egger. Now nearly 75 years old, he's still at it, exploring the wild mountains near his summer home on the shores of Lago General Carrera in Chile. Just back from another Patagonia season, during which he bagged yet another unclimbed peak, Jim spoke with AAJ editor Andy Anderson about the beautiful Aysén region of Patagonia, the peaks he's climbed, and his passion for exploration. The...
Conrad Anker in Antarctica (Ep. 4)
In December, Conrad Anker led a team of North Face athletes to Queen Maud Land, an area in Antarctica filled with spectacular granite spires. In this episode, Conrad describs the new route he put up with Jimmy Chin on Ulvetanna, the highest peak in the area, as well as dealing with the cold in Antarctica, the team dynamic on expeditions, and the environmental impacts of climbers. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.
Stephan Siegrist: Mister Kishtwar
Swiss climber Stephan Siegrist has visited the Kishtwar area of India five times in the past seven years, making numerous first ascents. In late 2017, he returned to India with Thomas Huber and Julian Zanker to climb a direct new route up Cerro Kishtwar, an extremely difficult mountain that he had already climbed once before! In this episode, Stephan talks about Cerro Kishtwar, his climbing partners, maintaining health and motivation for extreme expeditions at age 45, and much more. The...
Alan Rousseau: The First Ascent of Rungofarka (Ep. 2)
Until 2010, the spectacular mountains of India's Zanskar Range had been off-limits to climbers for generations. This fall, American climbing guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva took advantage of newly available permits and made the first ascent of a stunning, 21,309-foot peak: Rungofarka. The AAJ's Andy Anderson spoke with Alan to get all the details. This episode of the Cutting Edge is sponsored by Cilo Gear, Grivel, and Beal. This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.
Will Stanhope: All the Howser Towers in a Day (Ep. 1)
In late August, Will Stanhope and Leo Houlding linked the three biggest faces on the Howser Towers in British Columbia's Bugaboos, climbing them all free in 23 and a half hours. Will had been dreaming about this unprecedented enchainment for eight years. The AAJ's Chris Kalman spoke with Will about the planning for the linkup, how to free climb so much ground so quickly, and the primal energy boost from an alpine sunrise after 23 hours on the go. The Cutting Edge is produced by the...