HODINKEE Podcasts

On this week's episode of The Business of Watches, a frank discussion with one of the most powerful women in the world of horology. Hind Seddiqi is the Chief Executive Officer of Dubai Watch Week, an event that's grown and matured to become one of the few truly top-tier events on the watch sector calendar. As CEO of the biennial gathering, Seddiqi oversees the team that decides which brands get to exhibit their wares, which executives and collectors get to speak on the industry panels, and exactly how the massive show is staged, presented, and organized. This year's Dubai Watch Week was the most successful edition yet and marked a new era of international profile for an idea launched a decade ago by the United Arab Emirates retailer Ahmed Seddiqi as a way to showcase watchmaking and inform locals about the industry. Housed in a new, larger, and purpose-built venue near the Burj Khalifa, Dubai Watch Week 2025 welcomed a record 49,000 visitors this year, a 113% increase from the previous edition. The event, marking the 75th anniversary of the Seddiqi family retail empire, saw a wave of collector groups fly in from around the world to attend a show that offers up close and personal access to many of the biggest names in watchmaking, from Max Büsser to Roger Smith, to Rexhep Rexhepi, and the CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, Wilhelm Schmid. Hind Seddiqi says one of her biggest challenges now is preserving the casual, spontaneous, and intimate feel of Dubai Watch Week as demand for a place at the table continues to rise. She talks about Dubai, its torrid growth (and punishing traffic) and the city's increasingly important role in the international economy and how she plans to manage the demands and expectations of a massively popular event. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes: 3:08 Dubai Watch Week 4:32 Ahmed Seddiqi 5:03 A Rare Look Inside The Incredible Collection Of Mohammed Seddiqi At Dubai Watch Week 9:09 Dubai Watch Week Masterclasses 10:31 Audemars Piguet "House of Wonders" at Dubai Watch Week 12:15 Dubai population growth (Gulf News) 16:05 Francis Ford Coppola's Personal 'FFC' Sells for $10.755 million, The Most Expensive F.P. Journe Ever Sold 17:30 Dubai Mall 20:50 Rolex CEO Says Brand Won't Significantly Expand Own Retail And Will Continue To Work With Authorized Dealers 23:15 Top Swiss Watch CEOs Talk Leadership And Strategy Amid Industry Challenges At Dubai Watch Week 26:30 Tudor Launches New Ranger In 36MM At Dubai Watch Week

James Lamdin is a sage voice of reason and experience in the vintage watch market. He's earned those titles through his years in the business. A co-founder of the OG collector meetup RedBar Group, Lamdin went on to found Analog Shift, the vintage and pre-owned dealer acquired by Watches of Switzerland (also the parent company of Hodinkee) in 2020. In a conversation recorded live in front of an audience at UBS House of Craft in New York City in October, Lamdin breaks down the vintage and pre-owned watch market, how we got here, where we've been, and where we're likely going. He also gives plenty of useful insight on what it means for a second-hand watch to be truly authenticated and how collectors need to stay curious to get the most out of their watch-collecting journey. Lamdin proves himself a wealth of knowledge when it comes to used timepieces and what anyone should be thinking about when they're considering buying pre-owned. We had a blast recording this episode, especially taking questions from the audience. Be sure to leave any thoughts, comments, or questions in the comments, and we'll do our best to respond. Show Notes 00:30 James Lamdin and Analog Shift 2:00 Bloomberg.com 4:15 The Biggest Ever Boom In Swiss Watches is Coming to an End 4:45 Watches of Switzerland Group USA Acquires Analogue Shift 6:09 Secondary Market Rolex and Patek Price Rise, Fall and Recovery 10:00 U.S. Tariffs Impact On Secondary Market 12:11 Under The Radar: American Watches 16:00 RedBar Group 20:40 Omega Speedmaster Professional 23:00 Rolex Certified Pre-Owned 25:15 There are not enough watchmakers 35:54 Secondary Watch Market To Top New Sales By 2033 At $85 Billion 39:13 Neo Vintage Watches 41:01 The Military Industrial Complex 44:24 Cartier Tank Americaine Diamond 48:31 Ebay Authentication For Watches

On this week's episode of The Business of Watches, we're doing something a little different. We're taking your questions, and we've got a special guest as Hodinkee Editor-In-Chief, James Stacey, joins the podcast to help answer your queries on the business side of the dial. We hit a lot of topics, from the best perpetual calendars under $20,000, to rising watch prices, the recent surge in Swiss watch exports to the U.K., and just how popular is Halloween in Switzerland? It's a fun episode, and we hope you enjoy it. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. This episode of The Business of Watches is brought to you by Panerai. Click here to learn more about the Luminor Collection. Show Notes: 2:30 How Halloween Became Part of Swiss Culture 3:20 William Friedkin's Sorcerer 5:20 Simon Brette 5:25 Akrivia / Rexhep Rexhepi 6:10 MB&F 8:05 Sylvain Berneron 9:30 Omega Watches 13:00 Omega Speedmaster Professional (White dial) 13:30 New Speedmaster Dark Side of The Moon 15:40 Niels Eggerding interview 16:20 FC Classic Perpetual Calendar 16:50 Furlan Marri Perpetual One 18:00 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 18:30 Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar 19:30 IWC DaVinci Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3750 (Fratello) 19:40 Panerai 22:10 Swiss Watch Export Statistics 29:00 What Richemont and Swatch Financial Results Tell Us About The State of The Swiss Watch Industry 35:40 Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 38 MM in Damascus Steel (Hodinkee) 35:45 Longines 35:54 Sinn Watches

On this episode of The Business of Watches Podcast we drop in on Niels Eggerding, the CEO of Frederique Constant (and sister marque Alpina), at the brand's headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Switzerland near Geneva. Eggerding has been in the corner office since 2018 and has steered FC through a series of challenges and triumphs during his time leading the company. The Dutchman has brought more high horology and cool collaborations to the value and volume-driven brand, including perpetual calendars and tourbillons as well as more precious-metal cases. But it's a delicate balance for Frederique Constant as value-priced watches still account for more than 90% of its production volumes. Amid rising input costs and a strong Swiss franc, not to mention the challenge of U.S. tariffs, Eggerding's biggest challenge is maintaining FC's value proposition while burnishing its reputation as a serious watchmaker able to produce high-end timepieces. At the same time, he has to keep delivering sales and profit for the brand's owner, Citizen of Japan. On this episode of The Business of Watches Podcast, we drop in on Niels Eggerding, the CEO of Frederique Constant (and sister marque Alpina), at the brand's headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Switzerland, near Geneva. We hope you enjoy our conversation with Niels Eggerding. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes: 4:10 Frederique Constant Worldtimer 5:00 FC Classic Perpetual Calendar 5:31 Company history and milestones 6:00 Vacheron Constantin 7:30 Citizen 8:30 La Joux-Perret 10:15 LJP solar quartz movement in Tag Heuer 12:30 Manufacture collection 12:45 Highlife collection 16:00 New manufacture QP in 40mm case 22:00 FC Women's collection 23:23 FC Manchette 28:00 U.S. tariffs and watch prices 43:00 FC YouTube channel

On this week's The Business Of Watches podcast, we catch up with Antoine Pin, the Chief Executive Officer of Tag Heuer. He's having quite a year. The brand is in the first season of a new decade-long deal to be the official timekeeping sponsor of Formula 1. It's a high-profile, multi-brand agreement that, if executed correctly, could launch Tag Heuer to a whole new level of visibility. But it also comes at a challenging time for the global economy and the watch industry in general as soaring input costs, a strong Swiss franc, and U.S. tariffs on Swiss goods take a toll on margins and confidence. Pin tells us Tag Heuer has plenty of experience overcoming tough challenges. When the brand launched the first version of its carbon hairspring technology in 2019, there were issues. But the Tag Heuer laboratory didn't give up, and now it's back with a new version, which it says has overcome the problems. We hope you enjoy our conversation with Antoine Pin. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes: 4:10 Tag Heuer at Geneva Watch Days 6:48 Previous issues with carbon 9:00 New carbon spring oscillator solution 11:10 Silicon hairspring 13:00 Tag Heuer Formula 1 15:15 Cautious production 20:00 Tag Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph (CHF 155,000) 25:30 Tariffs and price increases

Georges Kern is emphatic. The Breitling Chief Executive Officer isn't slowing down on plans to expand his company's reach. Even as U.S. tariffs and economic headwinds challenge the industry, Kern is pushing ahead with planned launches of the Universal Geneve and Gallet brands in 2026. He's already orchestrated rapid growth and value creation at the historic Breitling marque since taking on the top job in 2017. Breitling was sold to private equity partners for less than a billion dollars that year. In late 2022, a change in majority shareholder valued the company at more than $4 billion, sources said at the time. But now with the industry facing a host of economic and political pressures, Kern's expansion efforts are being tested. In a candid interview, he says the luxury watch industry is poised for an eventual rebound. People won't delay purchases forever, he says, and when they're ready, he expects his growing stable of brands to have the right products to match the wants and needs of new clients. This episode of The Business of Watches is brought to you by Panerai. Click here to learn more about the Luminor Collection. Show Notes: Show Notes: 5:00 Breitling's deal with the NFL 5:50 Breitling watches 6:00 Morgan Stanley LuxeConsult Watch Market Report 7:10 Breitling Emergency 8:00 Breitling Top Time 10:21 Breitling Navitimer 15:30 Panerai 18:15 Breitling to Relaunch Gallet 22:30 Universal Geneve 26:10 Hermés Bags 27:00 Price of gold 29:40 How the Swiss watch industry is dealing with tariffs 32:20 What's up with watch prices? 34:30 Swiss Watch Exports 35:40 China Watch Market 38:10 Carpe Diem

Sylvain Berneron is in high demand, and so are his watch designs. Just last week, a 34-millimeter version of his debut time-only watch, the Berneron Mirage, came up for public auction for the first time, and bidding soared beyond the CHF80,000 high estimate to fetch a staggering CHF241,300, including fees. Having previously worked in the automotive industry with BMW, Berneron is a designer who has now chosen watchmaking as the canvas to express himself and his ideas. After departing the big brand corporate atmosphere of Breitling, he's enjoyed significant success so far with his own brand and has just unveiled his second collection - Quantième - and an annual calendar that brings a unique, yet superbly finished, movement architecture to the complication that aims to simplify setting and provide a stress-free experience for the user. Sized at just 38 millimeters in diameter and 10 millimeters thick, the dial design is both stunning and innovative in the way the time and date are displayed, while the platinum case features removable (and replaceable) steel elements that act as bumpers and guards for the precious metal. But this podcast is about business, and Berneron indulged us with a lengthy, candid, and exceedingly in-depth discussion about his plan for building a brand and sustainable company that bears his family name. He tells us why he's set up shop in a Swiss industrial park, the business strategy behind limiting production to less than 25 of each specific watch per year, and why he's turned down creative jobs at Rolex and tens of millions of dollars in financing from potential investors despite having barely a holiday or weekend off for the last half-decade. It's a deep dive into the business strategy and plan of a young, driven, red-hot watch brand that's trying to make it for the long haul. We hope you enjoy. Show Notes: 3:20 Berneron Quantième Annuel 4:45 Berneron SA 6:20 Panerai manufacture in Neuchatel 13:00 BMW Research and Innovation Centre 13:40 Breitling 18:20 Ben Clymer on founding Hodinkee and a professional life in watches 24:00 White label watch manufacturers in Switzerland include companies like Roventa-Henex 25:50 Swiss watch components makers include companies like Acrotec, the biggest supplier 32:15 Breitling Sells Controlling Stake to CVC Capital 32:50 Nicolas G. Hayek Sr. 40:20 Building Resilient Teams: What Business Can Learn From Military Cohesion 42:20 Employee Share Plans In Switzerland: A Regulatory Overview 47:00 Long-term commercial lease agreements in Switzerland: An Overview 49:00 Panerai 51:10 Hands On Review Of The Berneron Mirage 59:30 Family Offices 1:11:00 Mountain Survival Tips for Beginners 1:12:03 Audemars Piguet Buys Key Supplier 1:16:30 GPHG Audacity Prize Awarded to Sylvain Berneron 1:17:00 Why Using Your Last Name Is The Last Way To Name Your Company (Forbes) 1:18:56 Business Ethics Key Principals (Investopedia) 1:19:02 Simon Sinek 1:21:35 The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People 1:23:10 MB&F 1:23:20 Simon Brette 1:23:25 Xhevdet Rexhepi 1:23:28 Rexhep Rexhepi 1:23:30 Petermann Bédat 1:24:50 When Art Is Putting Yourself In Danger (CBC) 1:26:30 The Art of War (Sun Tzu) 1:27:06 Trust The Process (Simon Sinek) 1:31:49 The Transformative Power of Sabbaticals (Harvard Business Review) 1:37:00 Luxury and Socially Valued Behavior (Columbia Business School) 1:38:05 Germany's Car Industry Crisis 1:39:00 Hans Wilsdorf Foundation 1:41:00 Inside Rolex (Ben Clymer) 1:45:00 Patek Philippe Calatrava Collection 1:45:45 Fiasco (Wikipedia) 1:46:20 Batman Two-Face 1:53:00 Fathers Give Watch Collecting Advice (Hodinkee) 1:55:20 Christopher Ward 1:55:45 Swatch Group 1:58:00 MoonSwatch Phenomenon (Hodinkee)

Welcome to the first episode of a brand new podcast for Hodinkee. It's called The Business of Watches, and it's hosted by me, Andy Hoffman. Each episode, delivered once every two weeks, will feature conversations with authors, CEOs, industry insiders, and fellow journalists as we uncover the business behind your favorite watches and watch brands. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Episode 01 - Rolex, The Making Of A Status Symbol With Author Pierre-Yves Donzé Notoriously secretive when it comes to its operations and accounts, there haven't been a lot of business-focused books on Rolex, the biggest and most successful Swiss watch brand. At least until now, that is. Academic and professor of business history at Osaka University, Pierre-Yves Donzé is the author of The Making Of A Status Symbol, A business history of Rolex translated and published in English this year. We wanted to start our new podcast, The Business of Watches, by talking about the most important Swiss brand, and Donzé serves as an ideal guest, explaining the decisions and events that shaped Rolex into what it is today. The episode is full of revelations, from how Rolex dealt with the business challenges of a strong Swiss franc and the arrival of quartz, to how the brand overtook Omega in sales, and the critical role the U.S. has played in the company's history and success. Thanks so much for listening, and be sure to drop by the comments section if you have any thoughts or questions on the episode. We'll be back in two weeks with another episode of The Business of Watches. If you have any questions for an upcoming Q&A episode, please leave them in the comments below. This episode of The Business of Watches is brought to you by Panerai. Click here to learn more about the Luminor Collection. Show Notes: 3:40 The Making Of A Status Symbol, A Business History of Rolex (Manchester University Press) 5:25 Pierre-Yves Donzé 7:25 Rolex 10:30 Hans Wilsdorf 15:00 Rolex Kew A 16:01 COSC 18:10 Aegler SA and Rolex 20:50 UK taxation during WWI 24:30 Rolex Oyster case 26:00 Panerai 28:05 Rolex company history 1926-1945 30:50 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 32:00 André Heiniger 33:50 Hans Wilsdorf Foundation 35:20 Rolex Explorer Ad 1960s (Ad Patina) 36:38 J. Walter Thompson 39:20 Arnold Palmer (Rolex Magazine) 40:30 Mark McCormack 43:30 Omega 45:00 Placido Domingo 47:00 Rolex Oysterquartz 51:26 Rolex Lady-Datejust 53:30 Rare interview with Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour about Watches and Wonders (NZZ) 1:00:30 Rolex Land-Dweller Business History

It's the last day of the show, and James is joined by Malaika, Mark, and Tim to discuss our general impressions of the show, Tim's experience as a first-timer, and some of the highlights we saw from a day full of meetings with Sinn, Bulgari, Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and more. We hope you loved the episodes, and if you want more podcasts about the fair and all the new watches, let us know in the comments.

For the team's third day at Watches and Wonders, James is joined by Rich, Malaika, and Tim to talk over our highlights from another full day of fun at the fair. We get into everything from the latest Panerai models and the new (and very bleu) execution of the Chanel J12 to some deeper picks from Cartier and James' experience with a fun and colorful new travel-focused Club Sport model from Nomos.

We're back with Day 2 at Watches and Wonders as Ben, James, TanTan, and Mark recap another great day at the show and feature a fascinating conversation with Matthieu Humair, the CEO of Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. From the new Tag Heuer Formula 1 and the most complex wristwatch ever made to our hands-on experiences at Tudor and Rolex, it's a varied show with a wide range of watches (and some rather interesting tidbits about the show and its logistics).

Welcome to the first episode of Hodinkee Radio at Watches and Wonders 2025. We will be recording and publishing daily podcast episodes to recap Watches & Wonders. Stay tuned for our takes on all the latest releases, takeaways from the show, and the general shenanigans that tend only to be captured on mic after a long day of seeing lots of watches and drinking (way) too much espresso. We've finished our first day at the show this year, and Ben is joined by Malaika, Rich, and TanTan to talk about the latest from Rolex, Patek, and A. Lange & Sohne. New releases like the Odysseus and the Rolex Land-Dweller and a couple of hot takes on the Patek Philippe Cubitus in 40mm. Enjoy!

We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn). For this episode, James is hosting, and he is joined by Rich and Mark to discuss their thoughts for the watch world in 2025. The trio chats about the continued popularity of vintage-inspired designs and what they're hoping to see from Omega, Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and more. As this is the last episode of Hodinkee Radio in 2024, we wanted to thank everyone who has listened to the show, offered feedback, and more this past year. We'll be back soon with fresh episodes for 2025. Show Notes: 0:51 End of Year Episodes: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 6:12 Urban Jurgensen 6:54 Longines Heritage models 10:51 Special Link From Bruichladdich 12:40 Grand Seiko SLGW003 14:22 Flight Qualitifed Omega Speedmaster 19:50 Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT 27:40 Rolex Sea-Dweller 31:33 Cariter Coussin de Cartier 32:00 Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind 38:04 Shellman Side Slide Minute Repeater

5:09 Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648 8:20 MB&F LM101 2021 Editions 13:43 Julien Tornare joins Hublot 15:33 Jaeger-LeCoultre Pop-Up at Hudson Yards NYC 16:40 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris 18:36 Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Reissue 22:04 Special Link From Bruichladdich 27:26 Grand Seiko Dive Watches 28:38 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 34:15 Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty 37:23 Dream Swatch Collaborations

For this episode, James is hosting, and he is joined by Mark and Rich to discuss the last year in watches. The conversation is wide-ranging and includes everything from the continued popularity of shaped cases to Daniel Craig leaks, fan service in watches, the need for fun, the continued role of the Moonswatch, and a handful of favorite releases from 2024. We'll be back in a few days with part three of this series, in which we will look forward to the excitement of what we hope will come in 2025. Thanks so much for listening. 2:35 Cartier Crash 3:11 Berneron watches 3:45 Cartier Rewind 5:35 The white dial Omega Speedmaster Pro 6:01 Tudor Black Bay "Monochrome" 9:42 Mark's story about buying a Moonswatch 15:24 M.A.D.1S 17:02 Special Link From Bruichladdich 17:39 Patek Philippe Cubitus 18:35 Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT 30:35 Tag Heuer and F1 30:52 Doxa Sub 200T 31:00 Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT 31:37 Impossible Watch Co 32:07 Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon 34:50 Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto "Sandstone" 35:24 The John Mayer AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar LE 36:07 Grand Seiko SLGW003

For this episode, James is hosting and is joined by Malaika and TanTan to chat about the last year in watches. After a quick sidebar about the competition between the English supper and Thanksgiving dinner, the trio gets into the trends, major releases, and favorite moments from 2024. From the "mini" trend, solid additions from Omega, Lange, Hermes, and more to the search for fun in the hobby and, finally, a chat about the recent collab between Audemars Piguet and the artist KAWS. We'll be back next week with a similar format but with a panel including Rich Fordon and Mark Kauzlarich. Thanks for listening! 4:20 Mini! (AP) (Cartier) (Longines) 5:34 Berneron Mirage 11:00 Special Link From Bruichladdich 12:56 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Pro White Dial (A Week On The Wrist) 16:31 3861 Omega Speedmaster 25:40 Doxa Sub 200 27:07 Hermes Cut (In-Depth) 30:00 Tantan's Habring Erwin "Tuxedo" 31:55 Momentum UDT 32:37 Unimatic U5S MOMA 34:30 Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty 35:04 Keith Haring Swatch 36:58 Timex Japan 8-Laps 39:14 Lange Datograph Handwerkskunst 39:22 Lange 1 Anniversary Onyx 40:40 AP x Kaws Concept Tourbillon "Companion"

We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn). For this episode, we are joined by Tania Edwards, Co-Founder of Collectability and former employee of Patek Philippe. Her extensive knowledge of Patek, as well as her many years of experience in its marketing department, make her a bona fide expert when it comes to the brand's heritage, evolution, and watchmaking. Tania and Tony discuss Patek's history through the '80s and '90s, how the brand's identity and marketing campaigns have evolved to today, and her thoughts on vintage and modern Patek watches (including the Cubitus Collection, of course). 0:05 Hodinkee Insurance 00:33 Tania Edwards 00:34 Collectability 6:30 ETA Delirium quartz caliber 7:14 Caliber 89 and the 150th of Patek 12:50 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 14:01 Patek Philippe Twenty-4 15:09 Patek Philippe Aquanaut 16:40 The Patek Philippe Ads 25:30 Patek Philippe Advanced Research 29:39 Patek Philippe Ref. 96 30:34 The Patek Philippe Neptune 33:08 The Patek Philippe Cubitus 36:35 Patek Calatrava 4860 37:47 Patek Philippe 130 Chronograph 38:37 Patek Philippe 3940 39:25 Patek Philippe 7000 Minute Repeater 40:23 Patek Philippe 3848 Ellipse 51:60 Collectability Podcast

Pierre Biver of J.C. Biver, Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, and Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches join me in three separate conversations to provide a holistic overview of stone dials. Over the past few years, stone dials have seemingly popped up everywhere. More modern brands are making them. At the same time, vintage examples have become more collectible and jumped in price considerably. But stone dials are still a relatively undiscovered corner of watch collecting. They're not well understood on the vintage or modern side. So I wanted to cover them on Hodinkee. Typically, we'd do this by talking to a few experts and synthesizing those conversations into an in-depth article. But I decided to try something different this time around, hitting record on three conversations to learn about modern stone dial production, vintage collecting, and everything in between. Our first conversation is with Pierre Biver, who started J.C. Biver with his father Jean-Claude Biver last year. Each of their releases has included a stone dial option. Then, I talk with two dealers. First is Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, a vintage dealer and trained gemologist. Second is Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches, who has helped grow the scholarship around stone dials. We dive into the recent discussion around Rolex "obsidian" dials; as we'll discuss, this name isn't quite accurate and it shows how much there still is to learn about vintage watches, and stone dials in particular. I hope all three conversations give you a better understanding of stone dials. Note that I've tried to include links to an example of all stone dials mentioned in the audio, so check the show notes below if you're not sure what a particular stone looks like. Show Notes 1:23: Hands-On: The Biver Automatique 2:14: Hands-On: The Biver Carillon Tourbillon 19:30: Hands-On: The Berneron Mirage Realizes Its Creator's Uncompromising Vision 24:00: Hands-On: Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Limited Editions 31:54: Amsterdam Vintage Watches 33:35: In-Depth: How Piaget Defined The 1970s, And How It Can Do The Same Today 38:15: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Malachite dial 39:16: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Coral dial 41:53: Dr. Helmut Crott's The Dial 42:45: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with black Onyx dial 43:15: Example of a Piaget Protocole with Lapis Lazuli dial 43:28: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Tiger's Eye dial 45:20: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Green Jasper dial 46:30: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Pyramid Onyx dial 46:55: Jasper's white gold Datejust with Red Jasper dial 52:05: Rolex Day-Date with 'Bloodstone' dial 54:10: Hairspring Watches 56:00: Hairspring's post about the "Obsidian" dial Rolex Datejust 58:45: Recapping The Glamorous Day-Date Sale At Phillips (That Time The Average Day-Date Sold For $110,580) 1:00:00: "Obsidian" Rolex at Phillips in 2020 1:02:30: Rolex Day-Date Khanjar with "Obsidian" dial that Loupe This described as "although it looks like an onyx stone dial, after closer inspection it appears the dial is a painted/ lacquer dial." 1:11:37: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel (Live Pics) (including pics of a tropical Starwheel) 1:11:58: Rolex Daytona ref. 116500 "Lemon" dial

For this special episode, we're joined by Andres Nicholls. Andres is a dedicated collector of all things Porsche and Porsche Design. Andres' passion for the brand runs deep – he bought his first Porsche Design Chronograph 1 way back in 2000. As a trained designer and architect, he also brings a different perspective to the way in which Porsche Design's watches blend design and complications. Along the way, James and Andres also talk about some of their favorite Porsche cars, and how the brand continues to set itself apart. Andres is a senior partner and creative director for the creative agency Prophet. Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio. Show Notes Related coverage of Porsche Design: Also watch our first episode featuring Porsche Design with Drew Peterson. In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche Design Watching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The Year Talking Watches With Ferdi Porsche Hands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Edition https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-edition The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee

There's no one quite like Max Büsser in the watch world. Each of his creations is so innovative, unique, and cutting edge, but also all clearly from the same mind, challenging conventions of watchmaking. Büsser got his start in watches working with Jaeger-LeCoultre during the rebirth of traditional watchmaking in the 1990s. From there, he joined Harry Winston and launched its Opus series, collaborating with independent watchmakers like FP Journe. Then, in 2005 he started his own brand, Max Busser and Friends. His Horological and Legacy Machines are like no other watches, pieces of kinetic art. On today's episode, Max joined Ben and me to talk about his entire career, including his nearly 20 years at MB&F. We also talk about the current state of innovation and creativity in the watch industry. We also discuss the recent investment in MB&F by Chanel, and what's next for him and MB&f. Without further ado, enjoy this conversation with Max and Ben. Show Notes 3:00: Introducing the MB&F LM101 The MB&F LM101 Limited Edition for Hodinkee 3:39: Hands-On With the MB&F HM2 (2013) 19:00: Hands-On With the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph (2023) 20:30: A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Sector Dial (2017) 24:33: Introducing: The Grande Lange 1 Lumen (2012) 31:58: In-Depth: The Classic Datograph 36:27: Hands-On: MB&F's Horological Machine 11 'Architect' – A House For The Wrist 36:33: Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S, Some Of The World's Best Horological Entertainment And So Much More