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English


Episodes

Ep. 97: Board Meetings | The Art of the 2nd Try Send

7/9/2018
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Sending a route 2nd try is NOT THE SAME as the 2nd Try Send. The difference isn’t even subtle. It’s a whole different animal. In this episode Nate and I discuss the What, Why, How, and When of the extremely valuable skill of the 2nd Try Send. Learn it. You’ll be glad you did. You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast You can sign up for our Movement Assessments at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/july-assessment

Duration:01:06:55

Ep. 96: Project 9b with Jorg Verhoeven

6/25/2018
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If you aren’t aware of Jorg Verhoeven, it’s likely that you don’t pay all that much attention to climbing. Jorg is one of the most accomplished all around climbers on the planet, having climbed 14d, V15, and freed the Nose and Dihedral Wall on ElCap. He’s also an accomplished comp climber, having been on more than 25 World Cup podiums for bouldering and lead, and having won both the Combined World Cup Championship and the Overal Lead World Cup Championship. He climbs hard. He climbs well....

Duration:01:16:47

Ep. 95: Engaging Minority Youth in Climbing with Ryan Gagnon and Valerie McDonough

6/4/2018
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Ryan Gagnon is rare blend of data driven research and infectious enthusiasm, particularly when discussing his programs built to introduce and engage minority youth in climbing. I attended a talk that Ryan gave at the CWA Summit, and afterward sat down with him to talk. Because I know very little about the challenges that a gym might face in implementing these programs, I pulled in my friend Valerie McDonough, who manages Rockquest Climbing Center in Cincinnati. You can find Ryan online at...

Duration:01:01:15

Ep. 94: Bouldering, Through a Different Lens with John Sherman

5/24/2018
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Long before John Sherman was a crusader for the plight of the California Condor, he was a bouldering pioneer, brilliant writer, and creator of the bouldering V-scale. In this episode we sit down in Hueco Tanks to discuss his accomplishments as well as to argue about his most infamous creation. John’s list of strong opinions is nearly as long as his list of first ascents, and the only reason it hasn’t doubled is because he holds onto an opinion for dear life. I admire that, and I love to...

Duration:01:33:21

Ep. 93: Being Good Climbing Partners with Scott Pagel and Tyler Algeo

5/15/2018
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A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it’s because you’ve never had a great partner, and you’re just going to have to trust me. This episode could easily have been categorized as a Not So Average Joe episode, or it could have damn near been one of our upcoming Power Couple episodes. This is because both of these guys still don’t quite understand what their capable of, and it’s unlikely they would have yet reached their current level without the other on...

Duration:01:34:53

Ep. 92: Health Starts in the Gut with Aicacia Young, RDN

5/7/2018
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Aicacia Young believes that health begins in the gut, and she LOVES to talk about it. So much so that it almost makes me excited to do the same. Almost. In this episode we get into the basics. How do we know we need to improve our gut health and how do we go about it? What products do we use, and how much is enough? And maybe the most fun, what exactly is going on in there that constitutes poor gut health? Aicacia is a Registered Dietitian and owner of ClimbHealthy.com. She’s also the...

Duration:00:32:03

Ep. 91: Board Meetings | Do Climbing Gym Grades Matter?

4/24/2018
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In this episode, in the midst of a gym tour, Nate and I sit down to discuss how we feel about climbing gym grades. Do they matter? Should they be taken seriously? How do they relate to outdoor grades? And possibly most important, what the hell do we do with them? You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles.

Duration:01:07:57

Ep. 90: The Coach/Climber Dynamic with Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel

4/17/2018
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Perhaps the greatest attribute of any successful coach is their ability to effectively communicate with their athlete. Without buy in from the climber, no training plan can be effective. Without communication from the athlete, the right changes can’t be made. Success is often directly proportionate to that relationship. In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She’s...

Duration:00:52:29

Ep. 89: Become a Better Climber with Peter Bonamici

4/6/2018
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Peter Bonamici is a midwest legend. He’ll disagree with that, but it’s my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it’s true. This entire episode stems from a conversation with Peter in which he told me that he’d just learned to heel hook. After climbing his first V13. What?! It’s pretty simple, really. The reason that Peter, and so many other climbers, are legendary, is because they are good at climbing. Not just strong, but GOOD. They didn’t get that way by...

Duration:01:00:14

Ep. 88: Climb Injury Free Pt. 1 | Mobility with Dr. Jared Vagy

3/27/2018
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You’ve undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we’re going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built. In Part 1, we’re tackling mobility, and how it relates to both avoiding injury and rehabbing from it. Dr. Vagy walks me through many of the mobility drills that he recommends for climbers, and makes it easy for anyone to follow along, which I suggest you do, no matter how...

Duration:01:32:13

Ep. 87: Board Meetings | Principles vs. Prescriptions

3/23/2018
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Todays episode is Part 5 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that “Common Sense Isn’t Always Common Practice. Today we discuss Principles vs. Prescriptions. How do you know which is right for your situation? You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles.

Duration:00:42:02

Ep. 85: Board Meetings | Generalization vs. Specialization

3/21/2018
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Todays episode is Part 3 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that “Common Sense Isn’t Always Common Practice. Today we discuss Generalization vs. Specialization. There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. The differences can be subtle. You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles.

Duration:00:55:05

Ep. 83: Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity

3/19/2018
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Todays episode is Part 1 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that “Common Sense Isn’t Always Common Practice. Today we discuss Quality vs. Quantity. How much is too much? How can you focus on quality, and when should you? You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles.

Duration:00:45:49

Ep. 81: Learning from Better Climbers with Edwin Teran

3/13/2018
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Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can’t think of a moment when you shouldn’t use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing. Not just how they move (that too!), but how they structure their day, how long they rest, how they warmup, and what their attempts look like. So much to learn. In this episode I sit down with my good friend Edwin Teran and talk about his unique position as...

Duration:01:00:51

Ep. 80: Assessments with Steve Maisch

3/7/2018
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In this much requested episode, I sit down with Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch to discuss assessments. Steve had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he’s added, subtracted, and refined those. We talk a little about Steve’s own assessments, and an important thing that he overlooked in his own training. Many of us coaches are loosely collecting data for these assessments, but how important is it all, really? You can find Steve online at...

Duration:00:49:04

Ep 79: Board Meetings | When To Say Take

2/25/2018
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There are appropriate times to say “Take”. There are also instances when saying it is only slowing your progress. In this episode, Nate and I sit down in Bozeman, Montana during our work at Spire Climbing Center to discuss a topic that many people don’t realize that they don’t fully understand. Don’t forget to share the podcast with your friends, your enemies, and strangers on the street. They’ll thank you, and so will we. We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles. You can find us at...

Duration:00:39:55

Ep 78: PSA | Don’t Believe The Hype

2/21/2018
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With the amount of available information on training for climbing growing rapidly, it becomes increasingly harder to know what is worth keeping and what’s trash. I’ve been considering this type of episode for some time, but when I read a recent article from Climbing Magazine, I knew I had to do it. Among many uninformed statements in the article is one that states “a good way to build power is to try difficult moves when you’re already tired.” Not only is this incorrect, but it’s...

Duration:00:37:19

Ep 77: Climbing and Parenting with Beth Rodden

2/19/2018
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When Beth Rodden redpointed To Bolt or Not To Be in 1998 she became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years and Beth’s website lists her as “Mother - Pro Climber - Writer”. Mother first. Climbing is growing up. Beth and I sat down in Jackson, Wyoming while she was there to speak at The Teton Library Mountain Story series, despite delayed flights and a busy schedule. I wanted to know how climbing had changed for her since her son Theo was born, and what tips she might have...

Duration:01:02:54

Ep 76: Fueling from Skratch with Dr. Allen Lim

2/11/2018
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Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author (you can find his great cookbooks below), and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, Colorado for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously. We talk how hydration works and why water just isn’t enough. We also go into recovery and why Skratch decided not to mess with the magic of chocolate milk. Because I think it’s...

Duration:01:14:38

Ep 75 Self Worth and China Doll with Heather Weidner

2/4/2018
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Heather Weidner doesn’t need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather’s ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth. It seemed that given the current gender climate, the filmmakers, Jon Glassberg and Caroline Treadway, could have crafted a story that didn’t depict Heather as so dependant on her husband, Chris Weidner, for not only support, but to...

Duration:01:05:17