The Testpiece Podcast

Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode. Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior’. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” SHOW NOTES: Tim Kang’s InstagramFocus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim KangHamish McArthur Testpiece EpisodeMad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now! It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma’ which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world. Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends. Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering. And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock. SHOW NOTES: Tyler’s InstagramTyler’s YouTube ChannelFull Metal Brisket (15a) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”. SHOW NOTES: BeastmakerBeastmakingFoxy Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14’s this past year. Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.” SHOW NOTES: Shauna Coxsey InstagramShauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)Foxy ClimbingMad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17’s in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Emil’s InstagramEmil’s YouTube ChannelTension Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15. Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet. SHOW NOTES: Emil’s InstagramEmil’s YouTube ChannelTension Climbing Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one... Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing! SHOW NOTES: Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147Kenny Suh InstagramArticle About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)Mad Rock InstagramMad Rock Website Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock. Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future. Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually going on. SHOW NOTES: Kenny Suh InstagramMad Rock InstagramMad Rock Website Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US! You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions. SHOW NOTES: Chris’ InstagramChris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11Kong Extendo Cheater Draw Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s InstagramChris Schulte’s Black Diamond PageChris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before. SHOW NOTES: Chris Schulte’s InstagramChris Schulte’s Black Diamond PageJosh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris) Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there. This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen! If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing! SHOW NOTES: Bushido ClimbingSimon Lorenzi’s Instagram Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance. This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy. Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers. Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode. SHOW NOTES: Rob Hunter’s InstagramTyler Nelson’s InstagramRob’s Business, My Therapy PhysioTyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human PerformanceTyler’s YouTube ChannelTyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming IsometricsSqueezing The Lemon / Orange DemonstrationTyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future. Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #140 for context! SHOW NOTES: Austin Hoyt’s InstagramAustin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channelhttps://www.youtube.com/@ClimbveezAustin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately. Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move. Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast. SHOW NOTES: Austin Hoyt’s InstagramAustin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube ChannelIssac Leff’s YouTube ChannelBeta labs (Austin’s Company)Mad RockDecoy HoldsMimic HoldsNoah and Benn WheelerAdam ShaharRoss Fulkerson Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”. Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells. This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can’t quite capture. SHOW NOTES: “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”Filmed and Edited by Raul OnyettRoss Fulkerson’s InstagramRoss Fulkerson’s YouTubePodcast #3Podcast #4Podcast #124Podcast #133Mad Rock Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #137 for context! SHOW NOTES: Kai Whaley’s InstagramKai Whaley’s YouTubeKai Whaley’s Episode, #137Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai." Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent! Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title for V17. Kai’s YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode! SHOW NOTES: Kai Whaley’s Instagram Kai Whaley’s YouTube Board Climb’s mentioned in the episode: Brian Squire’s Board AccountVideos mentioned in the podcast: Off LeashA Little LifeSqu(h)amishTestpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode: Adam Shahar’s episodeMartin Keller’s episode#1#2 Support the show Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE