Gem Pursuit

One of the beauties of antique jewellery is that it can serve as a reminder of defining moments or movements in history that led to truly unique pieces. Today, we’re taking a look at the jewellery that was inspired by and created for the suffragette movement in the UK. These political pieces are some of the most collectible antique jewellery you will come across and are an important reminder of the fight for women’s right to vote in the early 20th century. Matthew and Alyce take a look at the origin of the suffrage movement, including why jewellery became such an important part of their protest and honour the incredible women who gave up their lives to fight for the cause. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT MORE INFORMATION Sylvia Pankhurst Holloway Prison Brooch https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/holloway-prison-brooch-279701 Suffragette necklace available at Courtville Antiques https://www.instagram.com/p/C5QUUTZCM_J/ Social Media QUOTES The fact that they were willing to go to these extreme lengths to gain their rights is very inspiring, and of course, it inspired not only that movement, but a jewellery movement as well. - Alyce Ketcher I think the key factor for a suffragette piece of jewellery comes down to the colors really. - Matthew Weldon My trade tip for you is if you're looking at a suffragette piece, it wants to be in the arts and crafts style, Art Nouveau style or Edwardian style and yellow gold or silver. - Alyce Ketcher Sylvia Pankhurst actually designs a brooch. Now referred to as the Holloway prison brooch, they were given to suffragettes who were incarcerated at Holloway prison as kind of like a badge of honor. - Alyce Ketcher KEYWORDS #suffragette #women #jewellery #edwardian #suffrage #brooch

Unlike the fleeting trends of the modern day, antique jewellery comes from times of defined eras and movements that inspired many artists and makers. We’ve covered jewellery eras in a past series but we never got to dive into this incredible movement that shaped art, design, architecture and of course jewellery. Although sometimes considered an acquired taste, art nouveau can be appreciated for its unique, beautiful style and the talent it took to create. Matthew and Alyce look back at the evolution of the movement and how it was influenced by worldly events, along with why the style was considered progressive or even risqué. They also share their favourite icons of the era and offer trade tips on how to add some pieces to your own collection. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT MORE INFORMATION French Art Nouveau ring featuring Colombian emerald cabochon https://www.instagram.com/p/CwubyTLo2Jl/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Art Nouveau coin ring featuring a whimsical woman adorning a diamond necklace https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1uMGd-suae/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Social Media Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES When I think about movements from the past, it's a lot like something going viral on Instagram or something going viral on social media today. - Alyce Ketcher When I think of Art Nouveau, you’ve really got to set the scene in terms of what's going on in the world that actually led to this movement. - Matthew Weldon The free flowing lines, the female body, the insects, the imagination, and the almost fantasy style. You can really appreciate it and Art Nouveau as an art form, - Matthew Weldon You cannot talk about Art Nouveau without talking about my icon, it's impossible. And what's really interesting about my icon is that he kind of never set out to be a jeweller. - Alyce Kethcer KEYWORDS #artnouveau #jewellery #design #jewel #enamel #art

We’re back with a very special bonus episode of our Royal Regalia: A History of Splendour series after a listener request for an episode on the crown jewels of Sweden. Sweden’s Kingdom has a history spanning over 1000 years. The protected jewel collection features some of the most impressive parures and tiaras you’ll ever see, including a bejeweled, cowboy-esque crown. Matthew and Alyce dive into the country’s unique, multinational history and trace back the origins of some of their spectacular pieces. They also share their favourites of the collection, highlighting beautiful detailed cameos and an incredible rare gemstone. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT MORE INFORMATION The Swedish Royal Regalia https://www.kungahuset.se/english/royal-cultural-heritage The Swedish State Regalia https://www.kungligaslotten.se/4.35bccc2161be12b93e3387.html?archive=3.35bccc2161be12b93e3583#svid10_46ca39931600d1b7b982f3 King Karl X Gustav's Crown of the Heir Apparent https://www.kungligaslotten.se/english/archives/the-state-regalia/2020-03-16-king-karl-x-gustavs-crown-of-the-heir-apparent.html Pink Topaz Parure https://www.thecourtjeweller.com/2022/11/spectacular-swedish-pink-topazes-for-queen-silvia.html Cameo Tiara https://www.thecourtjeweller.com/2021/02/the-stories-of-swedens-romantic-cameo.html Social Media Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES The connections in the Swedish Royal Family to the Danish, the British, the Norwegian, I mean, their family trees read like a bowl of spaghetti. - Alyce Ketcher The whole point was that these jewels that were left in this collection had to stay within the family. Whoever inherited them had to pass them on to the next one, you couldn't do anything with them. So they were kind of yours, but they had to stay as property of the Swedish crown. - Matthew Weldon One thing that I really love about the about Scandinavia royal families, the Scandies, they're not afraid to wear a good tiara. - Alyce Ketcher KEYWORDS #tiara #sweden #crown #jewels #royalregalia #king #cameos #diamonds #royalfamily

We have come to the end of our special series ‘Royal Regalia: A History of Splendour’ and for our final episode we’re taking a look at some jewels close to home. Although you may not have known this country would have crown jewels, we’ll find out the history that led to their establishment, how they trace back to British royal regalia and the suspicious circumstances of their mysterious disappearance, which is still unsolved to this day. Matthew and Alyce are joined by a very special guest for this episode, leading expert on Irish silver and antique jewellery Jimmy Weldon, who has a familial link to the case of the missing jewels and is also Matthew’s father. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT MORE INFORMATION The Irish Crown Jewels https://www.irishcentral.com/roots/history/irish-crown-jewels-stolen https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-northern-ireland-62924392 Social Media Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES It can be described almost as mystical. It's like they're like a mountain stream, where today we're talking about D color diamonds being the finest, in the old times they used to speak of diamonds being of the first water. - Jimmy Weldon The key to understanding the Irish Crown Jewels, you can't mention them without mentioning that they're gone. - Matthew Weldon This is fascinating to have a direct link to the possible recovery of such important jewels, especially to the country. But what do we think really happened to them? - Alyce Kethcer KEYWORDS #crownjewels #ireland #dublincastle #royal #diamonds #history

We’re just over half way through our short series, Royal Regalia: A History Of Splendour, looking at the stories and histories behind some of the world’s most famous crown jewels. Today, we look at a collection shroud in family spats and colonial controversy. The British Royal Family has always been subject to criticism and the history of their jewel collections are no different. From questions around ownership to some of the most impressive emeralds with a questionable backstory. Matthew and Alyce dive into the mysterious acquisitions of this collection, including the messy lineage of the royal family. They also reveal their favourite pieces and where you can see these fantastic royal jewels for yourself. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT MORE INFORMATION Cullinan Diamonds https://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/earth/geology/cullinan-diamond.htm Prince Albert’s Brooch https://www.thecourtjeweller.com/2019/08/prince-alberts-brooch.html Social Media Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES We have a lot to thank for the marriages that came into the British Royal Family. A lot of the marriages brought extremely wealthy women into the Kingdom, who brought their own jewels that were bequeathed to them from other royal families. - Alyce Ketcher The scepter holds the largest of the Cullinan diamonds, and the largest cut diamond in the world, 530 carats. The weight of these things as well is just incredible. - Alyce Ketcher The Scottish regalia is also a part of the British Royal Family. It's a little bit controversial, but does it really belong to the British Royal Family? - Alyce Ketcher There's those pieces that in a way might even be more important to the people who get them because it's specific to them - Matthew Weldon It is said that it's bad luck for any man to wear that diamond - Matthew Weldon I would say you're absolutely right, there are pieces that we don't see because it actually would just be too controversial. - Matthew Weldon I can imagine when you wear something like this, you would feel otherworldly. It is just a magnificent piece. - Alyce Ketcher KEYWORDS #royalfamily #diamonds #crownjewels #emeralds #queenvictoria #royalregalia #jewellery

We’re continuing on our magical and mysterious pursuit through the world of royal jewellery and this week, we’re talking about a collection of crown jewels that has been accumulating over many centuries. The Iranian National Jewels stand as one of the world’s most expensive and extensive collections in the world. Matthew and Alyce examine their tumultuous history and decadent taste, including how the royal family ended up with the largest pink diamond known to man and the indulgent party that eventually led to their exile from Iran. They also share their favourite pieces and, of course, let you know where you can see the collection for yourself. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT MORE INFORMATION Iranian National Jewels https://www.iransafar.co/iran-national-jewels-museum/ https://raseef22.net/english/article/1092915-irans-royal-jewels-a-dazzling-legacy-of-persian-kings-and-queens Noor-ul-Ain Tiara https://royalwatcherblog.com/2023/10/14/noor-ul-ain-tiara/?utm_content=cmp-true Social Media Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES It's always super important that we get the context of how these Crown Jewels got to where they actually are today. The Iranian Crown Jewels date back centuries, and it is super extensive and one of the most impressive collections we are going to see. - Matthew Weldon It's pretty vast, and it has some of those important gemstones in history, as well as also having a lot of men's jewels. - Matthew Weldon It's literally stuff out of fairy tales. These are not your normal pieces of jewellery. This is historical, otherworldly jewels. - Alyce Ketcher What didn't they put jewels in? They put them in everything - Matthew Weldon, Alyce Ketcher These two stones, not only historically, but the fact that they are fancy Pink Diamonds, they are the largest in the world, it's thought that there is no way to actually put a value on them. - Alyce Ketcher HOST DETAILS Matthew Weldon took over Courtville in 2018 and continues today the rich legacy left behind by Kitten and Grainne. The Weldon family tree boasts a rich history of Irish jewellers going back over 135 years. Learning from a young age about the industry from his father, Matthew quickly gained a skilled eye and an appreciation for quality. Seeking to further his knowledge and expertise Matthew gained a degree in marketing and French which led to a short career as a chartered accountant. But with such a draw to antique and vintage jewellery it was inevitable that Matthew would continue the family tradition and build a business of his own. Like generations before, Matthew looks for the exceptional, rare and intriguing pieces and always ensures beauty, quality and fair prices. Alyce Ketcher has been working with jewels for over 15 years. During her time within the jewellery industry she has worked in Australia, New Zealand, United States, United Kingdom and Ireland and gained qualifications through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A). As a qualified gemologist Alyce is able to use her extensive knowledge of diamonds and gemstones to identify and value jewellery from all periods. Working with antique and vintage jewels is her passion, and you can often find her researching hallmarks, inspecting gemstones or writing about our latest find. KEYWORDS #dynasty #royalfamily #iran #history #crownjewels #goldenglobe #jewellery #gemstones

This season we’re taking a magical and mysterious pursuit through the world of Royal Regalia: A History of Splendour, a topic that has been long-awaited and requested many times from our wonderful listeners. In the first episode of this season we’re taking a look at a country with one of the most magnificent histories and royal jewel collections, Denmark. Matthew and Alyce dive into the incredible collection and the fascinating stories that accompany it, including how Denmark acquired jewels from other countries, along with explaining the historical lineage and ownership within the families, where you can see these beautiful garnitures and their personal favourite pieces. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT MORE INFORMATION Denmark’s Crown Jewels https://www.kongehuset.dk/en/royal-collections/the-crown-jewels/ Crown Jewels and Danish Royal Property Trust Jewellery https://www.kongehuset.dk/en/news/crown-jewels-and-danish-royal-property-trust-jewellery Christian IV’s crown https://www.kongernessamling.dk/en/rosenborg/object/christian-ivs-crown/ Social Media Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES The jewellery is intrinsically linked to the history of any of the houses and it is through history that a lot of these jewels end up being in certain collections. - Matthew Weldon This is a serious collection. What I love about Queen Margaret, she's on record as saying, about the jewellery, that she doesn't count the carats, she counts the centuries. - Matthew Weldon When you look at the history behind their jewellery, the way that they've been able to keep their hands on some of these items is beyond amazing. - Alyce Ketcher All jewels tell a story, and this particular piece really is such a standout piece from their collection, it is so important to the family. - Alyce Ketcher HOST DETAILS Matthew Weldon took over Courtville in 2018 and continues today the rich legacy left behind by Kitten and Grainne. The Weldon family tree boasts a rich history of Irish jewellers going back over 135 years. Learning from a young age about the industry from his father, Matthew quickly gained a skilled eye and an appreciation for quality. Seeking to further his knowledge and expertise Matthew gained a degree in marketing and French which led to a short career as a chartered accountant. But with such a draw to antique and vintage jewellery it was inevitable that Matthew would continue the family tradition and build a business of his own. Like generations before, Matthew looks for the exceptional, rare and intriguing pieces and always ensures beauty, quality and fair prices. Alyce Ketcher has been working with jewels for over 15 years. During her time within the jewellery industry she has worked in Australia, New Zealand, United States, United Kingdom and Ireland and gained qualifications through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A). As a qualified gemologist Alyce is able to use her extensive knowledge of diamonds and gemstones to identify and value jewellery from all periods. Working with antique and vintage jewels is her passion, and you can often find her researching hallmarks, inspecting gemstones or writing about our latest find. KEYWORDS #royaljewels #royalfamily #queen #denmark #crown #diamonds #crownjewels #jewellery

For avid jewellery collectors it can sometimes feel like a piece finds its way to you without even having to look for it. That was certainly the case for Victoria Waller, a passionate and knowledgeable collector who received a very unique and special piece just a week after her mother passed away. Victoria shares the incredible story of how her namesake Queen Victoria’s rare Coburg Eagle landed in her hands and the amazing history that came with it. Having crossed paths at many international jewellery shows, Matthew and Victoria also share their top tips and tricks for visiting shows and what to look out for when starting your own collection. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT GUEST DETAILS Dr. Victoria Waller is an educational therapist, teacher and avid jewellery collector. https://www.drvictoriawaller.com/ MORE INFORMATION Queen Victoria’s Coburg Eagle https://www.bmimages.com/preview.asp?image=00863536001 Social Media Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES The jewelry sometimes picks you, it just presents itself to you. - Matthew Weldon You can't buy taste. You either have it or you don’t. - Victoria Waller It came to me the week after my mother passed away. It was just one of those things it's called meant to be. - Victoria Waller We never really own these pieces, we just guard them for one more generation, and then someone else gets to enjoy. - Matthew Weldon KEYWORDS #jewellery #queenvictoria #brooch #provenance #coburgeagle

The world of antique jewellery is both magical and mysterious, and Gem Pursuit is always trying to help you develop your own understanding, and your collection! Whether you’re new to antique jewellery, or a collector trying to broaden your knowledge, Matthew and Alyce are bringing you the ultimate book to guide you. John Benjamin’s ‘Starting to Collect Antique Jewellery’ has been hugely influential for both our hosts and they break down all the best bits, biggest learnings and words of caution as you begin your own pursuit. If you’re looking to put a bit of know-how behind your passion for antiques, this is the place to start. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT ● What you can gain from John Benjamin’s book ● Learning how to correctly look after antique pieces ● Broadening your knowledge of different techniques and time periods ● Valuing jewellery and how it’s changed through time ● How collectors, dealers and enthusiasts can always learn something new MORE INFORMATION Starting to Collect Antique Jewellery by John Benjamin https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starting-Collect-Antique-Jewellery-Benjamin/dp/1851494073 New York Times Feature https://www.instagram.com/p/Cz6QNbGs56x/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Star piece of the year https://www.instagram.com/reel/CoPalZnDT2U/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== SOCIAL MEDIA ● IG - @CourtvilleAntiques ● FB - @Courtvilleantiques ● Tik Tok - @matthew.weldon ● YouTube - @courtvilleantique ● Pinterest - @courtville Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES This is a tool in the belt. We need reference books like this that help us to understand what we're seeing, especially when things in the antique jewelry world are so unique. - Alyce Ketcher This is one thing that I'd say to anybody who's getting into antique jewelry. There is always an exception to every rule that you have. - Alyce Ketcher Even the collector, the enthusiasts, who would have broad knowledge, you'll pick up something every time you read it, about one of the slightly more obscure pieces, and I think it's fantastic for that. - Matthew Weldon John Benjamin, the detailed guide that he's put together here has become like an old friend to me, really, over the years. - Alyce Ketcher KEYWORDS #antiquejewellery #bookreview #victorian #mosaics #gemstone

It’s the most wonderful time of the year and as a little gift from Gem Pursuit to you this festive season we’ve got a very special edition of Gem Trivial Pursuit! Matthew and Alyce go head to head to see who is the greatest quizmas master of all and not with some laughs, and questionable knowledge, along the way. Find out what year the Hallmark cards began, which country really believes in the power of mistletoe and how many reindeer Santa actually had. Wishing you and yours a very happy festive season from everyone at Courtville Antiques. For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. SOCIAL MEDIA ● IG - @CourtvilleAntiques ● FB - @Courtvilleantiques ● Tik Tok - @matthew.weldon ● YouTube - @courtvilleantique ● Pinterest - @courtville KEYWORDS #Christmas #Quiz #Reindeer #Jewellery #trivalpursuit

‘Tis the season and for our bonus episode of Season Eight Matthew and Alyce take a look at the history of gift giving from the Three Wise Men to Napoleon. Gift giving can be traced back to 40,000 years ago, with figures made of woolly mammoth ivory. From the thoughtful gifts of the three wise men, to one of the biggest rubies ever documented and even the classic pearls of a fashion icon, Matthew and Alyce share the fascinating stories of some unique, beautiful and sometimes terrifying gifts throughout time. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT ● The Russian imperial history behind the classic pearls of a fashion icon ● A 40,000 year old gift, one of the earliest examples of figurative design in human history. ● A flamenco dancer turned Maharani with her eye on an elephant’s emerald ● The three wise men and their gifts for a newborn king ● Napoleon III’s shamed mistress and her menacing portrait ● A legendary musician’s enormous gift to his wife of 40 years MORE INFORMATION The photographic painting of Comtesse de Castiglione as ‘Vengeance’ https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2000/comtesse/photo-gallery The emerald crescent brooch https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6211869 Venus of Hohles Fels https://www.thearchaeologist.org/blog/venus-of-hohle-fels-the-earliest-known-depiction-of-a-human-being-in-prehistoric-art Irving Berlin’s Ruby https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6151278 View Courtville Christmas Gift Ideas for this special episode. For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. SOCIAL MEDIA ● IG - @CourtvilleAntiques ● FB - @Courtvilleantiques ● Tik Tok - @matthew.weldon ● YouTube - @courtvilleantique ● Pinterest - @courtville QUOTES The first gift that I chose today is a very famous gift that not a lot of people would recognise as a gift but they would recognise the actual style icon on which it sits. And this is Coco Chanel and her pearls. - Alyce Ketcher I would wear ropes and ropes of pearls too if I was wearing Romanov pearl necklace - Alyce Ketcher This pendant dates back over 35,000 to 40,000 years. This is one of the first ever pieces of jewellery that's actually been discovered, and even more than that, were some of the earliest examples of figurative design in human history. This is a really important one, not just in terms of jewellery, but in terms of gift giving, and also human evolution. - Matthew Weldon A really cool piece that also has such a crazy backstory. - Alyce Ketcher What's interesting about gold is that it started there, but it's gone everywhere. Santa’s first gift was gold, he used to throw little bags of gold into people's houses. - Matthew Weldon I'm gonna be dreaming about that ruby for a very long time. - Alyce Ketcher #gifting #christmas #giftideas #giftgiving #antiquejewellery #history #jewellery

A picture tells a thousand words and long before photography, jewellery was telling the stories of the wearer, memorialising loved ones and even harbouring secrets. Matthew and Alyce take a journey through the history of imagery in jewellery and celebrate a craft that became a dead art thanks to modern technology. People were capturing memories through imagery as far back as the 1500s and in this episode you’ll hear about the array of different materials and techniques used to create them, capturing everything from animals, to portraits and even more risqué scenes for lovers. Plus, we’ve got the low-down on where you can find these extremely unique and valuable pieces for your own collection. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT ● An introduction to imagery in jewellery ● Types of imagery in jewellery ● How technology changed imagery in jewellery ● Where to find the best pieces of this art form ● The lovers eye of a doomed romance ● Prolific military portrait miniatures from County Cork MORE INFORMATION Featured Ring: A fabulous French 1950s cluster ring by Mauboussin. Set with perfectly matches sapphires and emeralds, the combination of colours is striking. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu9I6OCKydf/ For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. To see some of the pieces discussed in this episode check out our Instagram instagram.com/matthew.weldons/ Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. SOCIAL MEDIA ● IG - @CourtvilleAntiques ● FB - @Courtvilleantiques ● Tik Tok - @matthew.weldon ● YouTube - @courtvilleantique ● Pinterest - @courtville QUOTES Imagery in jewellery is really an interesting one, because it follows us as we, as humans, and technology evolve. - Alyce Ketcher What's really interesting about a piece of jewelry that actually has an image on it is you can visualize who these particular jewels belong to, because there's a picture of someone either who owned it, or who gave it to somebody with their image on it. It gives you an insight into their life. - Alyce Ketcher They developed photography and that was the end of a lot of imagery in jewellery. Imagery across the board was affected but portrait miniatures was a massive industry. - Matthew Weldon I would say to people who are collecting, if you look at what material the images are on, that'll give you a really good idea of age. The image will tell you what time period it is based on clothes, etc. but if you actually look at the material, it'll help you know as well. - Matthew Weldon In the Georgian period, those who had a romantic connection, to kind of symbolize that connection or that relationship, by gifting one another their eternal gaze, which was done through a portrait of the eye. - Alyce Ketcher KEYWORDS #jewellery #imagery #portrait #antiques #art #victorianperiod #collector

The value of gold has skyrocketed over the last number of decades, which makes it a limited and expensive material to work with. Matthew and Alyce share the unique ways this noble metal was crafted in the past and why many types of goldwork are now considered a dead art. Goldwork traces all the way back to ancient times but in this episode the focus is on filigree and cannetille, how these crafts were originally used to create beautiful pieces for a low cost and why, today, they are so much more valuable. Of course, we also have your guide on where to find the best of the best of goldwork through history. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT ● What is fine goldwork? ● Filigree work ● Cannetille ● How changing trends impacts value ● How dead arts get a revival ● Other types of goldwork ● Nuances in the colour of gold ● Why types of fine goldwork are dying arts ● The introduction of platinum into jewellery ● The best eras for collecting filigree and cannetille ● A patriotic Irish bell ● A Japanese dealer’s Hellenistic collection MORE INFORMATION For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. To see some of the pieces discussed in this episode check out our Instagram instagram.com/courtvilleantiques/ Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. SOCIAL MEDIA ● IG - @CourtvilleAntiques ● FB - @Courtvilleantiques ● Tik Tok - @matthew.weldon ● YouTube - @courtvilleantique ● Pinterest - @courtville QUOTES The beautiful thing about antique jewellery is you'll get these nuances in the gold. - Matthew We know why the majority of the arts from the antique periods are gone. It really is because of time, time that it takes to create just the wire work, the filigree work alone. - Alyce It is something that takes time and effort and skill, and years and years and years of practice. I just think that the kind of society that we live in today is more throwaway. - Alyce The price of gold relative to income, or the price of gold relative to real estate, is much closer now than it used to be. Gold used to be more accessible to more people, whereas now it's relatively a very strongly priced - Matthew KEYWORDS #filigree #jewellery #gold #1820s #georgian #fashion #goldjewellery

Given the time of year it felt only right to look at some of the what some might call the ‘creepier’ dead arts. Matthew and Alyce take a journey through hair art, teeth jewellery and taxidermy in this shiver-inducing episode. Although they’re not for everyone, we find out how these pieces were important mementos of times passed for people to remember their loved ones and why taxidermy went from a status symbol to a legal nightmare. Plus, if you find any of these pieces hair-raisingly intriguing, we’ve got your guide on where to find them. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT 00:57 The history of hair art 03:42 Different types of hair art and jewellery 06:58 Why hair and jewellery were important mementos 10:13 The industry of death 12:30 The art of taxidermy 14:07 How taxidermy became a status symbol 18:13 Why are they dead arts? 24:06 New pieces available at Courtville.ie 25:53 The best examples of these arts 30:24 The one place making modern hair art in Europe 32:01 Wearing someone’s smile on a ring 34:38 Heads of Hummingbirds HOST DETAILS Matthew Weldon took over Courtville in 2018 and continues today the rich legacy left behind by Kitten and Grainne. The Weldon family tree boasts a rich history of Irish jewellers going back over 135 years. Learning from a young age about the industry from his father, Matthew quickly gained a skilled eye and an appreciation for quality. Seeking to further his knowledge and expertise Matthew gained a degree in marketing and French which led to a short career as a chartered accountant. But with such a draw to antique and vintage jewellery it was inevitable that Matthew would continue the family tradition and build a business of his own. Like generations before, Matthew looks for the exceptional, rare and intriguing pieces and always ensures beauty, quality and fair prices. Alyce Ketcher has been working with jewels for over 15 years. During her time within the jewellery industry she has worked in Australia, New Zealand, United States, United Kingdom and Ireland and gained qualifications through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A). As a qualified gemologist Alyce is able to use her extensive knowledge of diamonds and gemstones to identify and value jewellery from all periods. Working with antique and vintage jewels is her passion, and you can often find her researching hallmarks, inspecting gemstones or writing about our latest find. MORE INFORMATION For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. Where you can find modern hair art creation: https://www.visitdalarna.se/en/do/shopping/hair-jewellery-vamhus-mora Hummingbird earrings: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O86513/earring-emanuel-harry/ https://www.antiquestradegazette.com/guides/information-guides/endangered-species/ Check out this piece on our Instagram. Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. SOCIAL MEDIA ● IG - @CourtvilleAntiques ● FB - @Courtvilleantiques ● Tik Tok - @matthew.weldon ● YouTube - @courtvilleantique ● Pinterest - @courtville KEYWORDS #hairjewellery #taxidermy #victorian #necklace #deadart #teeth #jewellery #hairart #mourningjewellery #sentimentaljewellery

In this episode Matthew and Alyce dive into the dying art of enamelling. Although it’s something we might all be able to find on items in our own homes, finding a skilled enameller who can create art to the standard of the past is next to impossible. Enamelling can be found in many forms and today we look back on the 2500 years of the art, hear about some of the finest crafts people and their incredibly impressive colour palettes and, of course, some direction on where you can look to add your very own piece of enamelling to your collection. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT 01:33 What is enamelling? 03:22 Varieties of enamelling 10:24 Why enamelling is a dead art 13:04 The colour palettes of enamelling 14:53 How fashions change through history 23:32 Where you can find good examples of enamelling 28:59 The Dragonfly Woman corsage 35:44 The Colonnade Fabergé egg HOST DETAILS Matthew Weldon took over Courtville in 2018 and continues today the rich legacy left behind by Kitten and Gráinne. The Weldon family tree boasts a rich history of Irish jewellers going back over 135 years. Learning from a young age about the industry from his father, Matthew quickly gained a skilled eye and an appreciation for quality. Seeking to further his knowledge and expertise Matthew gained a degree in marketing and French which led to a short career as a chartered accountant. But with such a draw to antique and vintage jewellery it was inevitable that Matthew would continue the family tradition and build a business of his own. Like generations before, Matthew looks for the exceptional, rare and intriguing pieces and always ensures beauty, quality and fair prices. Alyce Ketcher has been working with jewels for over 15 years. During her time within the jewellery industry she has worked in Australia, New Zealand, United States, United Kingdom and Ireland and gained qualifications through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A). As a qualified gemmologist Alyce is able to use her extensive knowledge of diamonds and gemstones to identify and value jewellery from all periods. Working with antique and vintage jewels is her passion, and you can often find her researching hallmarks, inspecting gemstones or writing about our latest find. MORE INFORMATION For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. To see some of the pieces discussed in this episode check out our Instagram @CourtvilleAntiques Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. Social Media @CourtvilleAntiques@Courtvilleantiques@matthew.weldon @courtvilleantique@courtville QUOTES "Enamelling is a form of glass work, which has additives introduced to it to increase its stability, and to reduce a melting range that allows it to set on top of a metal surface." - Alyce Ketcher "There literally are so many types of enamelling, because it really is like an experimental art, especially when you think about glass work." - Alyce Ketcher "This was considered one of the most important art forms (and jewellery is art that you wear) up until really the 20th century. And then the question begs to be asked is why is this a dead art?" - Matthew Weldon "One thing to really think about when we're talking about these art forms is that they may have gone out of fashion, and then they come back into fashion, but we can't find them anywhere. So we have to look at antique jewellery." - Alyce Ketcher "Carl Fabergé's workshops had 130 colours of enamel. So you could choose from 130 different colour palettes that they had created. That is a huge feat." - Alyce Ketcher KEYWORDS #enamelling #enamel #jewellery #metal #faberge #artform #antiquejewellery

Lapidary Some of the unique art forms of jewellery creation are dying out thanks to modern technology and lack of training options Today we’re taking a look at the dying art of lapidary or gemstone cutting. Matthew and Alyce discuss the history of the art and why it has become so difficult to find modern masters of the craft, along with sharing the time periods that really highlight the most beautiful forms of the craft so you know where to look for your own antique collection. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT 01:02 An explanation of the art of lapidary 04:07 Fashioning gems from their rough, out of the ground state 08:20 Why lapidary is a dying art 17:12 The impact of computerised systems and lasers of gem-cutting 19:59 Examples of the best cut gemstones 24:12 Which time periods to look to for your own collection 29:31 Creating new demand to revive dying art forms 33:15 A precious family Netsuke collection 42:49 Caesar’s ruby that isn’t actually a ruby MORE INFORMATION For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. To see some of the pieces discussed in this episode check out our Instagram @CourtvilleAntiques Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES "During this season, we're going to be talking about crafts that have been lost, or that we think may have been lost. They include portraiture, hair, lapidary, and other forms of antique art that can no longer be seen in pieces today." - Alyce Ketcher "When we're talking about lapidary, we're talking about the cutting or the fashioning of every single gemstone on the planet, except for Diamond. Diamond is the only one that has its own title, which is called a diamond manufacturer, or diamond cutter, and a diamond cutter will never cut any other gemstone." - Alyce Ketcher "When we actually go to look for these craftspeople, they're incredibly thin on the ground. In Ireland for example, there's only one that I'm aware of." - Matthew Weldon "So when we're talking about cutting gemstones, the reason why we have fashion gemstones in the first place is to bring out and maximise the beauty of the gemstone." - Alyce Ketcher "Another reason why a lot of the dying arts are dying, is because of computer imaging programs, computerised systems, measurement systems and lasers, which combine to actually automate gemstone cutting." - Alyce Ketcher "A lot of people don't aren't aware about the variety that you can get and all of those carbon titles are all super interesting, totally unique, done by hand. It just blows my mind that something that this person carved 150 or 200 years ago is still so crisp." - Matthew Weldon "I think the onus is on the jewellery industry at large to familiarise themselves with all the different gemstones, because that's needed to get lapidary back from the brink, create demand for these skills again." - Matthew Weldon KEYWORDS #gemstone #jewellery #skills #faceted #art #Edwardian

To celebrate over 50 episodes of Gem Pursuit Matthew and Alyce are taking you through a journey of their top five episodes. It was no easy task deciding on our top five but you’ll hear stories of Godly gemstones, the lost city of gold and the brutal standards of one very famous jeweller. We’ll also be looking ahead to Season 8, which will be in your ears this October and is all about the dead arts. THINGS WE SPOKE ABOUT GUEST DETAILS Matthew Weldon took over Courtville in 2018 and continues today the rich legacy left behind by Kitten and Gráinne. The Weldon family tree boasts a rich history of Irish jewellers going back over 135 years. Learning from a young age about the industry from his father, Matthew quickly gained a skilled eye and an appreciation for quality. Seeking to further his knowledge and expertise Matthew gained a degree in marketing and French which lead to a short career as a chartered accountant. But with such a draw to antique and vintage jewellery it was inevitable that Matthew would continue the family tradition and build a business of his own. Like generations before, Matthew looks for the exceptional, rare and intriguing pieces and always ensuring beauty, quality and fair prices. Alyce Ketcher has been working with jewels for over 15 years. During her time within the jewellery industry she has worked in Australia, New Zealand, United States, United Kingdom and Ireland and gained qualifications through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A). As a qualified gemologist Alyce is able to use her extensive knowledge of diamonds and gemstones to identify and value jewellery from all periods. Working with antique and vintage jewels is her passion, and you can often find her researching hallmarks, inspecting gemstones or writing about our latest find. MORE INFORMATION For more information on Gem Pursuit or to browse the Courtville collection visit www.courtville.ie. Gem Pursuit is produced for Courtville by Dustpod.io. QUOTES "You can value jewellery in two ways, and when it transcends from one of these ways to the other, it's when you really reach these gem qualities and you value them based on their intrinsic parts. So the diamond, the gold, sapphire, garnet, it is evaluated on the part, but if you're valuing jewellery based on the craft, the skill and the beauty, that's jewellery on a different level." ~ Matthew Weldon "He was able to actually revolutionise the way people look at jewellery, instead of looking at it as a tangible asset and looking at it as a piece of art. There wasn't any other jeweller in his time period who did what he did. It really was a turning point in jewellery creation." ~ Alyce Ketcher "A lot of jewellery houses, when they make something, much like an artist, they will actually put their name on the bottom or they'll sign it. In jewellery, it's exactly the same thing. But Suzanne Belperron said ‘I don't even sign my pieces, you should know they are mine just by looking at them’." ~ Matthew Weldon KEYWORDS #jewellery #gold #faberge #gem #history

Onyx has a long and fabled history and although many will (correctly) associate it with the Art Deco era, it was also an important gemstone at many other periods throughout history. We talk about how different cultures have viewed this gem and the way its colouration impacts upon this. We also discuss banding, Tutmania and sugary treatments... View our Onyx collection. www.courtville.ie Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok A Tape Deck podcast #onyx #gems #jewellery #antiquejewellery #vintagejewellery

We celebrate our 50th episode with Matthew's favourite gem, that stone with the incredible, one of a kind play of colour that is Opal. Known as the pride of Australia, it's a gemstone Alyce knows pretty well but she talks about how her initial perception has changed since when she was a kid growing up Down Under. Listen to the end for the triumphant return of Gem Trivial Pursuit and find out who prevailed... www.courtville.ie A Tape Deck podcast #opal #gems #jewellery #antiquejewellery #vintagejewellery

Renowned for it's remarkable colour-changing properties and 10,000 rarer than diamond, Alexandrite is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary and sought-after gemstones on earth. Matthew and Alyce give an overview of the short history of the gem, provide some insight into it's fascinating colour change and, as usual, offer a few nuggets of insight from the trade to help you on your own Alexandrite treasure hunt! www.courtville.ie A Tape Deck podcast