The Testpiece Podcast

Send us a Text Message. Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world. Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders. SHOW NOTES: Multiverse FA by Jimmy WebbThe Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel DavisonSupport the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings! Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts. SHOW NOTES: Testpiece PatreonRyuchi Almost SendingBon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam OndraHuecoEra VellaTick ListAidan Robert’s On New V17’s?No Edge ShoesSupport the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28! He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches! Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been competing at a high-level for over a decade including internationally at World Cups. He’s climbed 14d and sent his first V15 a few days before we recorded this podcast! SHOW NOTES: Momentum Climbing TeamSupport the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!! $5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now! SHOW NOTES: Devilution by Shawn RaboutouElias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)Dana White on Lex Fridman Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14! She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing. SHOW NOTES: Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbsCampusing on the 4mm’sSolving a Rubik’s Cube while hangingJerry Moffat’s book MastermindKeenan Takahashi Testpiece PodcastFLOAT TrailerCircle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like. They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant. SHOW NOTES: GoFundme for AdrieneFelipe HooBeastmaking BookSupport the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb! Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well. Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb. Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury. SHOW NOTES: Team Trials Instagram Post by RyanPaul Robinson on Hueco Rock RodeoNathaniel Flashing Scarface Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old! Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: This one was special because it took away Josh's excuse on why his best days of climbing are behind him! SHOW NOTES: Ninja Skills Sit FA (8C+ / V16)Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world. And Josh reports back on the project Tim coached him through in the last episode. SHOW NOTES: Felipe Hoo’s Famous 360 Kilterboard SendDaniel Woods on ROTSWWill Bosi does ROTSW Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft! Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered! Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconic Biographie -- the worlds first 5.15a. SHOW NOTES: Matty Hong WebsiteMatty Hong on InstagramMatty Hong on TikTokBig Fish (video of Sharma on the crux)Reel Rock 18 TrailerBiographie 15a SendTrailerSharma on Los Humildes Pa CasaEthan Pringle on La Hostia by Boone SpeedJim Thornburg Instagram Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for. SHOW NOTES: 2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 SetPodcast #33 with Andy Tollefson Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi! Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them. Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for climbing. SHOW NOTES: ANTIGRAVCreative VisualizationA Little LifeExpress YourselfJosh Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. 2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Instagram postAbsolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport! Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth". Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler on SleepwalkerSupport the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think. Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindblowing how detailed he got to make this send happen. A true example of Mastery. SHOW NOTES: The Dark Side Instagram PostValley UprisingYabo RoofSupport the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Happy New Year, my dude. Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones? SHOW NOTES: MasteryAtomic Habits Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering. Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the tone for what’s going on today. There’s tons of can’t miss stories about young Chris Sharma and what Hueco, Bishop, and Font were like in the 90’s. We are so grateful to get to share their stories and not have them lost to history! SHOW NOTES: West Coast PimpStone CrusadeRevelations Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Send us a Text Message. F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays... The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids. Tim and Josh also talk about the latest ascents of two previous Testpiece Guests -- Defying Gravity by Nathaniel Coleman, and Sleepwalker by Zach Galla. This leads into a discussion about the demonstration of strength while climbing and how it has or hasn't evolved over the years. SHOW NOTES: Nathaniel Coleman, Defying Gravity (V15)Noah Wheeler, 3rd Ascent of Defying GravitySupport the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE