Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.

This episode of Garmology features host Nick in conversation with bespoke tailor Duane MacLeod, who lives and works on the coast of Maine. Duane shares his unconventional journey into sewing and tailoring, beginning with a childhood in a DIY, self-sufficient family and escalating into a lifelong fascination with making things. After years of building houses, reupholstering furniture, and sewing casually, he began making garments seriously when his daughter — then studying fashion — challenged him to make his own coat. Following early experiments with Japanese pattern books and the online sewing community (especially the influential blog Male Pattern Boldness), Duane slowly developed his skills and eventually became deeply interested in tailoring. This led him to the Tailoring Academy in Macclesfield, UK, where he completed an intensive 10.5‑month professional training program later in life, after retiring from a nursing career. He describes the pace, rigour, camaraderie, and transformative experience of studying tailoring full-time, learning precise techniques, working with high-end fabrics, and building garments from the inside out. Returning to Maine, Duane started Holdfast Bespoke, where he now makes custom jackets, waistcoats, trousers, and outerwear — often using fine woollens from mills like Moon, McGee, and Holland & Sherry. He discusses the challenges of sourcing fabric as a new artisan, the realities of working slowly and deliberately by hand, the joys of satisfied clients, and the emotional meaning people find in handmade garments. Duane also shares his current project: preparing six looks for an upcoming runway show with the Maine Crafts Association. Throughout the conversation, it touches on craftsmanship, creativity, timeless design, the tailoring industry, and the personal satisfaction of continuing to learn and make meaningful things. You can find Holdfast Bespoke at: www.holdfastbespoke.com. Duane's Instagram account is @mainelymenswear, and the vest that didn't quite turn out right can be found on Duane's blog. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this episode, Nick sits down with Neale McDonald, founder of the small‑batch menswear label Adamant Clothing, to talk about the journey from skate‑scene style obsession to designing handmade garments in Scotland. They dive into craftsmanship, what “made in” really means, the frustrations of modern social media, menswear trends, and the challenges of running a tiny self‑funded brand in a big‑brand world. A thoughtful conversation about passion, quality, and why the humble overshirt might be the perfect garment. You can find Adamant on the web at adamantclothing.com and on Instagram as @adamant_clothing Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this wide‑ranging and deeply reflective conversation, Nick welcomes back fashion researcher and maker Wendy Ward to unpack what really happens to clothes after we’re done with them — and why the fashion industry’s language around “recycling” and “sustainability” increasingly rings hollow. They explore the murky realities of textile waste, charity shop overload, and so‑called recycling systems that often amount to exporting waste elsewhere or incinerating it. Wendy reflects on her stalled attempt to return waste garments to manufacturers, digging into the complexities of end‑of‑life clothing systems and the uncomfortable truth that only around 1% of post‑consumer textiles are truly recycled. Amid the bleak realities, the conversation shifts toward more hopeful ground: Wendy’s wearing tally practice, cost‑per‑wear labels, personal garment narratives, and examples of brands and makers celebrating care, repair, and long‑term use. Together, they question whether fashion can rediscover joy, meaning, and creativity without driving relentless over‑consumption — and whether positivity, not guilt, might be the key to real change. This episode is a candid exploration of value, honesty, infrastructure, and imagination — and what it might take to build a healthier relationship with the clothes we already own. You can find all Wendy's links on her Linktree here. Links: Nature: "Secondhand fashion consumers exhibit fast fashion behaviors despite sustainability narratives" https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-025-19089-1 The Guardian: "‘Hospices are in retreat’: funding crisis squeezing UK palliative care providers" https://www.theguardian.com/society/2025/mar/24/hospices-in-retreat-funding-crisis-squeezing-uk-palliative-care-providers NRK: "Må kaste 500 tonn mer tekstiler enn i fjor: – Nå sliter vi veldig mye" https://www.nrk.no/vestfoldogtelemark/frykter-at-gjenbruksbransjen-kan-kollapse-_-kaster-500-tonn-mer-tekstiler-enn-i-fjor-1.17656476 (Suggest using the translate function in Google Chrome) Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this festive roundtable episode, Nick, Jon, and Shaun gather to complain — politely — about modern shopping, resale platforms, and the strange reality of buying your own clothes back years later from a charity shop. They talk eBay deliveries that arrive whenever they feel like it, Vinted’s takeover of second-hand culture, AI-written listings that say nothing, and heritage brands that now come with a geography quiz. Along the way, there’s boiled wool, duffle coats, social media fatigue, and the realisation that the internet has slowly turned into a badly lit shopping centre. It’s a warm, funny, slightly grumpy end-of-year chat about clothes, trust, and why keeping one good thing for 20 years might still be the most radical idea of all. Festive, thoughtful, and lightly exasperated — just as intended. Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka @these_rough_notes and @HeavyJon on Instagram. Early reviews of this episode are mixed, so your listening pleasure is uncertain: Tortoise Trends commented, «We appreciate the slow pace of the proceedings». VintageWear Weekly gushingly praised «At least they don’t mention whiffy vintage garms this time!» Giffnock Advertiser noted, «Local celeb Shaun gets properly stuck into the proceedings and we love it.» Stationary Engine Magazine said, «These guys sound like our kind of people.“ Teddy Bear Times said, «Gets a bit boring in the middle then better at the end.“ The Country Smallhold said, “They dress for the occasion but are they up to it?” Business of Fashion stated, «Clearly our days of shilling for the man are over, all hail the three kings.» Gentleman’s Quarterly: «A laidback and comfortably paced chat perfect for accompanying the preparation of sprouts». Amateur Carp Fishing Monthly said, “ It’s not really our thing.“ Carnoustie Guide & Gazette said, “It’s a podcast with men talking.“ From Twitter @JeansAndSheux «The scene appreciates the respect shown and offers a Peroni in return.» Motorway Lovers Weekly “Once again there’s no mention of the M45 “ Pitti Peacocks Annual whinges «We fail to appreciate the loathing of our beloved monk-strap shoes. This is dismal.» The Guardian pontificated «We’d be sure to recommend Garmology if we’d heard of it.» The Brighton Bugle blethered «Jon is clearly one of our finest local citizens and we really should shower him with appreciation.» Tønsberg Blad skriver «Jasså, så han holder ennå på? Kanskje på tide å rydde forsiden igjen...» Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Step into the studio with bespoke tailor Alis LeMay, whose Glasgow-based craft blends heritage techniques, natural dyes, British wool, and a deep respect for the land. In this inspiring conversation, Alis shares how chance encounters, traditional skills, and local collaborations shaped her journey from animation student to couture dressmaker — and why natural materials are at the heart of her latest project, Clò an Tìr (“cloth of the land”). Discover: Whether you're into slow fashion, heritage craft, textiles, sustainability, or just a good creative origin story, this episode is a rich, warm, craft-filled journey. You can find Alis on the web at alislemay.com and on Instagram as @alis_le_may Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

What happens when a lifelong sneaker lover refuses to throw away his favourite shoes — and ends up building a full sneaker restoration business instead? In this episode, we meet SneakerPharm’s founder, the craftsman bringing dead, battered, sun-bleached trainers back to life using skill, chemistry, and a whole lot of patience. From reverse-engineering damaged materials to perfecting the art of whitening, reglueing, repainting, and rebuilding — this is a deep dive into the world of sneaker rescue and the culture around it. We talk about: 🧪 How he learned restoration through trial, error, and obsession 👟 Why certain sneakers are worth saving — even if they look beyond repair 🔥 The business of sneaker cleaning, detailing, and reviving rare pairs ✨ The surprising emotional stories behind the shoes people send in 📦 What it’s really like turning your passion into a full-time craft If you love sneakers, craftsmanship, or just great stories from people who really care about what they make, you’ll enjoy this behind-the-scenes look at a fascinating and fast-growing world. You can find SneakerPharm on the web at sneakerpharm.com and on Instagram as @sneakerpharm Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week on Garmology, we’re off to the wild west coast of Ireland — to the home of Donegal tweed. Sixth-generation weaver Kieran Molloy joins us from Ardara, County Donegal, to talk about family legacy, the craft of weaving, and what it takes to keep a centuries-old tradition alive in the modern world. From looms beside the family home to a 1920s showroom on Fifth Avenue, the Molloy story is one of resilience, artistry, and an enduring love for colour and texture. We talk about the history and future of Donegal tweed, the fight to protect its name (like Champagne or Parma ham!), the challenges of staying natural in a synthetic world, and what it’s really like to run a small mill on the edge of the Atlantic — exporting to Japan, New York, and beyond. It’s a warm, funny, and deeply fascinating conversation about craft, identity, and why some fabrics carry the soul of a place. 🎧 Garmology – a podcast about clothes, and the deeper stories behind them. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week on Garmology, we’re rethinking everything we thought we knew about shoes. From Nike internships and bespoke sneakers in L.A. to orthopedic labs in Canada, shoemaker Andrew Turriff has walked a long, winding path to creating Turiff Functional Footwear — a brand built on one radical idea: that shoes should actually work for your feet. We talk about his journey from art school to Fluevog to founding his own label, his discovery that most footwear ignores how the human foot actually moves, and how he set out to make rugged, repairable shoes that let you live, move, and feel better. This episode covers everything from the craft of shoemaking to barefoot philosophy, sustainability, and why “growth for growth’s sake” might be fashion’s biggest flaw. It’s a thoughtful, inspiring conversation about slowing down, making things well, and walking your own path — one pair of truly functional shoes at a time. You can find Andrew and Turriff Functional Footwear on the web at turriffshoes.com and on Instagram as @turriff_functional_footwear 🎧 Garmology — a podcast about clothes, and the deeper stories behind them. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week on Garmology, we’re going on an adventure — without leaving the wardrobe. TV adventurer, explorer, and all-round outdoorsman Ben Fogle joins Nick for a deep dive into his love of outerwear, heritage design, and the gear that’s travelled with him from Antarctica to Everest. From waxed Barbours and wool Guernseys to modern technical kit, Ben shares what really works when the temperature drops (and why some of the best expedition gear still smells like it’s been somewhere wild). We talk about his “accidental” journey into adventure, how he ended up buying the legendary Buffalo Systems, the future of British-made outdoor wear, and why timeless design still beats fast fashion — even at -40°C. A funny, warm, and surprisingly geeky two-hour chat about jackets, journeys, and joy in the details. You can follow Ben Fogle on Instagram as @benfogle Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week, we step inside the heart of British shoemaking. Our journey takes us to Northamptonshire, where craftsmanship and tradition run deep. Chris Woodford—6th-generation shoemaker and the man behind Crown Northampton and E. Woodford—opens the doors of his family’s factory to share stories of heritage, innovation, and the enduring art of making shoes. We chat about what it means to carry on a legacy while steering a modern business, the surprising freedom that comes when every worker has their own key, and the obsessive pursuit of making products as good as they can possibly be—using the finest leathers sourced from around the world. And yes, we dive into the wonderfully mad idea of crafting whole-cut welted sneakers that take 50 hours to make… and why people can’t get enough of them. This is a rich, two-hour conversation about passion, precision, and the quiet joy of making things that last. You can find Crown Northampton on the web at crownnorthampton.com and on Instagram as @crownnorthampton Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Repost: This week I'm heading back to Scotland for a chat with Clare Campbell of Prickly Thistle, a self-proclaimed rebel mill outside Inverness. From a background as a chartered accountant, Clare took a u-turn, or maybe a swerve, when she discovered a passion for the traditional tartan and from there decided to establish a mill, using ancient looms, with no clue at all about how to use them. We get into what it means to run an ethical and transparent business, getting off social media, going zero waste, what B Corp status means and how being a rebel can mean doing this the opposite way of established business practices. You can find Prickly Thistle on the web at pricklythistle.shop. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Repost: A slight diversion guest-wise today, as it's my sister Emma, a psychologist, that picks up the phone for a fly-on-the-wall style chat about topics within the Garmology sphere. We talk about the psychology of social media, why retail therapy has become a thing, peak hipster, why women get poorer clothes, the issues and pitfalls of ordering online, where the real deals can be done, our mums' taste is outed and much more. Unusually, I get to talk more in this episode! Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebrated by sewing enthusiasts worldwide, to the therapeutic power of sewing, we explore the intricacies of fabric sourcing and Carolyn's identity as a maker above all else. Join us as we also discuss the launch of new sewing retreats, offering a sanctuary for creative exploration. You can find Merchant & Mills on the web at merchantandmills.com and on Instagram as @merchantandmills Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Back by popular demand, Jon and Shaun join me once again for a meandering (but mighty enjoyable) chat covering all sorts — from smelly clothes and style dilemmas to menswear books, garment care, and even buying secondhand from celebs. Listener questions lead the way, and while solid answers are... a maybe, the banter is guaranteed. Settle in — it’s a good one. If you liked this episode, you may like the previous festive editions! Shaun is on Instagram as @these_rough_notes and Jon can be found as @heavyjon Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Hello, garment gazers — and welcome to a fresh episode of Garmology! This week, we’re stepping into a cosy workshop in Cheltenham to chat with Adele Williamson, bespoke shoemaker at the legendary Tricker’s of Northampton. We explore how Adele found her way into shoemaking, the rich heritage of Tricker’s, and what makes a bespoke shoe truly special. From the surprising number of machines involved to the passionate customers who appreciate the craft — it’s a fascinating look into a proud British tradition. You can find Adele on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/b_spoke_/ Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

This week, we’re heading to Sheffield in the heart of Northern England for a delightful conversation with Wendy Ward. Wendy’s journey has taken her through roles as a fashion designer, author, teacher, PHD-student and activist. You might have spotted her recently in The Guardian, where she talked about her inspiring #TakeItBack campaign — we dive into that and much more. From daily stitching rituals to reflections on how our clothes make us feel, this episode is both thoughtful and joy-filled, with exploration of personal style, sustainability, and yes — a bit of giggling about dungarees. So, grab a cuppa and settle in for a chat full of heart, insight, and warm Yorkshire charm. You can find Weny on Instagram as @thatwendyward, her linktree (with articles, books and more) at Linktree and the recent article in the Guardian. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this week's episode, we head to Denmark for a chat with Liam Maher, something of an industry veteran with a CV that includes Timberland, Burton snowboards, Visvim, Denham the jeanmaker and Ecco shoes, among others. However, we're going to focus more on his recent book, "Menswhere - A lost history of the militant guild of rural tailors". If that makes you curious, all will be revealed. You can find more information about "Menswhere" on the web here. The long-lost archive may possibly be found in the Internet Archive, although this has not been possible to verify. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

In this episode, we head to Belfast to sit down with Michael and Paul, the duo behind The Bureau — a menswear store with legendary status. Founded in 1989, The Bureau began as a bold vision from two young guys who saw space for something different. Decades later, they've built a reputation for championing quality, heritage, and timeless style, while always keeping things fresh. We dive into an honest conversation about life in retail, the evolution of the shop, navigating tough times, and the iconic Bureau man. You can find The Bureau on the web and on Instagram. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Garmology is back! Today I'm visited by Max Leonard and Henry Iddon, creators of the book "Mountain Style - British Outdoor Clothing 1953-2000". We have a good old natter about the great British outdoors, expeditions of yore, how creativity led to development, new fabrics for new times and much much more. You can find the book at Isola press or at most other booksellers of merit. Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.

Please note: This is the audio part of a video that I have uploaded to YouTube. You can search for "Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle" (or use the link in the show notes, or go to WellDressedDad.com to find it). Nigel Cabourn is a British menswear designer with over 50 years in the business. He has had a continuous personal brand, initially as Crickett, later under his own name, and is known for his many and varied collaborations. In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the Garmology podcast (episode #122), as a continuation of our contact I was invited to visit Nigel in his studio in Newcastle in April 2024. For me, it was a chance to learn more about the inspirations and working methods behind legendary collections such as "The Ascent of Cabourn" and "Scott's Last Expedition", and naturally to learn more about what is in the pipeline. Youtube link: Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you can buymeacoffee.com/garmology Nick Johannessen is also the editor of the WellDressedDad blog and WellDressedDad on Instagram. You can email Nick as Garmology (at) WellDressedDad.com. Garmology theme music by Fabian Stordalen.