Sake Deep Dive

Finally, the European masters have introduced the world of sake to the power of blending, something that no one in sake’s centuries of history ever thought of before. Or, not. Jim and Andy stir things up with a talk about the real, and very long, history of blending sake in all its many shapes and forms. Vocabulary from this episode Arabashiri - The initial “rough run” of sake from a pressing. Nakatori - The middle, and often considered best, run of a pressing of sake. Seme - The final cut, sometimes considered the “dregs” or tailings of a pressing of sake. Chogo - The Japanese word for blending, as in sake. Recommended Sake Andy - Kuromatsu Kenbishi Jim - Miyoshi Hana Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Andy and Jim explore the history of Nara as an early center for sake development and innovation. From rice polishing to branding, there's a solid argument that this is where sake as a consumer good was born. Vocabulary from this episode: Katahaku - Sake that used polished rice for only the mashing rice. Morohaku - Sake brewed with polished rice in both Koji and kakemai Recommended Sake Andy - Yucho Shuzo Takacho Junmai Bodaimoto Jim - Kubo Honke Nemuryu Kimoto Junmai Jukusei Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Your humble hosts look over developments in the types of tanks used through history. It's a great chance to reflect on the surprising links between material advancements, brewing technology, and market demands. Vocabulary from this episode Horo - Enamel coating used on metal tanks Kame - A general term for large ceramic jars/tanks used for storing or fermenting Kioke - Wooden tanks Taru - A wooden cask or keg used for storing and transporting sake Recommended Sake Andy - Kikumasamune Taruzake Jim - Aramasa Cosmos Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Time at last for Andy and Jim to tackle the beast that is the junmai ideology. This time the gents look at just how junmai became such a hot topic, what it really means for the brewing industry, and the figures behind its postwar “revival,” if that’s what it really is. Vocabulary from this episode Aruten - Brewer’s alcohol added. Short for arukoru tenka Komedake no osake - sake made from only rice/rice koji/yeast. Mutenka - Nothing added Recommended Sake Andy - Gokyo Kiokezukuri Junmai Jim - Ryujinmaru Junmai Nama Genshu Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

We are finishing our series on Japan's major brewing regions in Fushimi, Kyoto. Built around the palace of one of Japan's most powerful warlords, we discuss how this once-sleepy town literally cleaned its way to becoming one of Japan's most famous brewing regions. Vocabulary from this Episode gokusui: fragrant water kinmeisui: Golden Water ginmeisui: Silver Water Recommended Sake: Andy - Souku Usu-Nigori Jim - Sho Chiku Bai Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at ⁠https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions⁠ Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Saijo - Sake Theme Park The second of our series on Japan’s major brewing regions takes us to Hiroshima’s Saijo. This little town built on sake brewing is a sake lover’s dream. Seven breweries in close proximity, with museums, shops, and tasting opportunities galore. Come learn how it got to be this way in the latest Sake Deep Dive! Vocabulary from this episode Shuto: Affectionate name for Saijo meaning sake capital. Sake kabu: A brewing license system enforced by the Tokugawa shogunate. Recommended Sake Andy - Kirei Mannen Jim - Kamotsuru Daiginjo Tokubetsu Gold Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

This month’s topic is big, literally. In the first of a special three-part series, we explore Nada; the biggest, boldest, and most storied sake region of them all. Does Nada’s sake still have relevance within today's craft-orientated industry? Is it all just soulless, machine-made plonk for the masses? Join us to hear our thoughts on this enigmatic behemoth of the sake industry. Vocabulary from this episode Nada Go-Go: Indicating the so-called 5 villages of Nada. From east to west, they are Nishi, Mikage, Uozaki, Nishinomiya and Imazu. Kudari-zake: Sake that was ‘’sent down’’ from the Kamigata region (modern-day Kyoto and the surrounding vicinity) during the Edo period. Recommended Sake Andy – Hakushika Kuromatsu Jim – Kenbishi Kuromatsu

This time we see what value sweetness in sake has... The same meter value! Andy and Jim try to pin down what "karakuchi" means, how sake had changed over time, and what we should really look for when buying a bottle. Kanpai! Vocab Amakuchi - typically any "sweet" thing. Karakuchi - traditionally, the foil for sweet things, which has made the word very context dependent. It could mean spicy, bitter, salty, or just heavily flavored. In sake, it means 'not sweet," which is pretty vague. Recommendations: Andy - Tamagawa Time Machine Muroka Nama Genshu Jim - Kanenaka Kimoto Junmai Chokarakuchi

Andy and Jim get a little bit more personal as they take a look at a topic close to both their hearts: sake vessels! From tokkuri to hirahai, they talk bottles and cups, with a couple of bones to the wine-glass crowd, too. Raise whatever is closest to hand for a rousing kampai to shuki! Vocabulary from this episode Tokkuri - a common style of bottle-style sake pourer Katakuchi - a widely varied style of pitcher/bowl style sake pourer. Guinomi - a relatively large sake cup Ochoko - a relatively small sake cup Heihei - a rather unusual style of “flat” sake pourer Masu - A square wooden or plastic, sometimes lacquered sake vessel. Kiriko - Japanese cut glass, often used for sake cups and pourers. Recommended Sake Andy - Juhachizakari Takaji Junmai Omachi Muroka Hiire Genshu Jim - Gokyo Junmai Kiokezukuri Kimoto Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

With the spring flood of namazake, Andy and Jim take their usual contrarian position and go for the hiire stuff. Why do brewers heat-treat their sake? How do they do it? And why is Andy so resistant to the idea of sticking his hand in a vat of hot sake? Find out in the latest Sake Deep Dive! Vocabulary from this episode: Binkan Kyurei - A specific term for pasteurization and rapid cooling of sake in the bottle. Literally “bottle heat rapid cool” Hiire - Heating sake to kill bacteria and halt enzymatic action Hiochi - The term for unpasteurized sake that has gone bad from bacterial action. Literally “Fire failure.” Hiochikin - A blanket term for a group of alcohol resistant lactobacilli that can thrive in sake and turn it bad if not killed through heating. Jakan - The “snake tube” used in a traditional heating method for sake. Nizake - A kind of heated sake introduced to Japan from China during the Muromachi period (1336-1573), inspiring early pasteurization techniques. Recommended Sake Andy - Aramasa Cosmos Jim - Dewazakura Ginjoshu Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Andy and Jim climb the mountains and explore the rice fields to get to the root of the “king” of sake rice, Yamadanishiki. We look at where it came from, why it got so big, and maybe express a wee bit of skepticism about those magical Hyogo rice fields. Vocabulary from this episode: Koji Haze - The distribution of koji over the surface of the rice grains. Kumamoto Kobo - The origin of Association Yeast #9, often called the “Ginjo yeast.” Nengo - The naming of eras in Japan based on the currently reigning emperor. Now, for example, we are in the Reiwa era, preceded by Heisei, and Showa before that. Nishiki - Silk brocade. A word often used to denote something elegant and luxurious. Shinpakuritsu - The rate of starchy “white heart” appearance in a batch of rice, expressed as a percentage. Shuzokotekimai - The more official term for what we call sakamai, or rice well-suited to sake brewing. Tankanwataribune - One of Yamadanishiki’s direct parents. “Tankan” means short stalk. Yamadaho - Another of Yamadanishiki’s direct parents. Toku A chiku - One of a few areas across two cities in northern Hyogo prefecture with reputations for growing high-grade Yamadanishiki rice. They are: Kato City - Yashiro, Tojo; Miki city - Yokawa Recommended Sake: Andy - Kikumasamune Gokujo Tokubetsu Honjozo Chotokusen Jim - Tatsuriki Junmai Dragon Episode 3 Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Used under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

It was inevitable. This month, Jim and Andy wander the green mountains of Jim’s adopted home of Yamaguchi Prefecture. They touch on local history, the reemergence of Yamaguchi sake, and—of course—Dassai. They might also mention Jim’s new book, Discovering Yamaguchi Sake. On sale now wherever books are sold!For more info, check the publisher’s page at: Discovering Yamaguchi Sake Vocabulary from this episode Fugu - blowfish or pufferfish. A specialty of Yamaguchi. Soridaiji - the official title of Japan’s prime minister, the leader of the national government. Yamaguchi is home to more than any other prefecture in Japan. Recommended Sake Andy - Gokyo Josen Futsushu Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

In this New Year's episode of Sake Deep Dive, Andy and Jim get back to the start—yeast starter, that is. We round out the group by taking on yamahai this time, building on what we’ve already covered in the kimoto and sokujo episodes with how it came to be, and what it is becoming now. Vocabulary from this episode Kai-ire - while generally a term for mixing or stirring the mash, here we mean a step in orthodox yamahai where a single brewery worker mixes and crushes the moto mixture after kumikake Kumikake - circulating the enzyme-rich moto liquid using a perforated metal cylinder in the middle of the mash, and ladling the liquid it lets in back over the rice outside Recommended Sake Andy - Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai Jim - Yuki no Bosha Hiden Yamahai Junmai Ginjo Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Show Notes In the latest Sake Deep Dive, Andy and Jim take on Japan’s national mold, Aspergillus oryzae–the lowly koji-kin. This is less a historical exploration and more a real look at the nitty gritty on this itty bitty ruler of the sake world. CORRECTION: During the episode, Jim mistakenly called Shirokoji Aspergillus luchuensis. That is incorrect. It is Aspergillis kawachii. Aspergillus luchuensis is another name for Aspergillus awamori. Vocabulary from this episode Kikoji - Yellow koji, Aspergillus oryzae. The standard sake strain of koji kin. Koji kin - the actual way to refer to the mold spores that are added to rice to make rice koji. Kurokoji - Black koji, Aspergillus awamori/Aspergillus luchuensis. The standard strain of koji kin for making the Okinawan rice spirit of awamori. Shirokoji - White koji. Aspergillus kawachii. The standard strain of koji kin for making Japan’s spirit of shochu. Oddly, a mutated form of Aspergillus awamori. Toko - Literally “floor/bed.” The table where major hand-made koji production happens. Hako - Literally “box.” A box where moderately sized batches of hand-made koji are propagated for temperature control. Futa - Literally “lid.” Smaller boxes for precise, granular temperature control in hand-made koji production. Recommended Sake Andy - 無窮天穏 Mukkyu Tenon Jim - Gokyo Five Yellow Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Kodaishu - Days of Yore Show Notes Andy and Jim explore the very oldest kinds of sake in search of the real roots. From drunken serpents to monkly brews, we look at the earliest records of sake to see how it developed in the olden days. Vocabulary from this episode Sumizake - An ancient kind of filtered sake. No one knows for sure how they filtered it. Dakushu / Doburoku / Nigorizake - all the same kanji, all meaning “cloudy/muddied sake.” Heian Period - 794-1185 Goshu - An ancient sake brewed in the Heian. Kojibuai 28.6%, water absorption 77% (Modern koji 22%, mizubuai 135% ) Goishu - Another ancient Heian sake. 1 dan jikomi brewed from late August into september. 28.6% kojibuai and mizubuai of 51.4% (very very low). SMV -80-100. The low water content prevented spoilage. Kamakura - 1185-1333 Rise of private breweries, people drank too much, banned. Muromachi 1336-1573 Azuchi-Momoyama 1568-1603 Edo Period 1603-1867 Tamonin Nikki (Tamon temple chronicles) from 1478 to 1618 Recommended Sake Andy - Sawa no Tsuru Kimoto Honjozo Jim - Daruma Masamune 10 year koshu Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Show Notes: In a departure from the typical fact-based fare, this time Andy and Jim trawl the murky depths of terroir. What is it, really? No, really? And, is it really going to “save sake?” Predictably, we don’t think so… Enjoy the second part of our first ever two-parter! Recommended Sake in this Episode: Andrew: Tsuki no I Nanotsuki Kimoto Junmai 80% Jim Kai no Kaiun Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Genshu （Limited edition-sorry. The shiboritate and regular junmai are great, too!） Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Show Notes: In a departure from the typical fact-based fare, this time Andy and Jim trawl the murky depths of terroir. What is it, really? No, really? And, is it really going to “save sake?” Predictably, we don’t think so… This time, recording ran pretty long so we're splitting this into our first ever two-parter. Tune in next month for the exciting conclusion--and our recommendations! Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Show Notes: Andy and Jim look into perhaps the most famous brewing water in Japan: Miyamizu. Why is it so famous? Why ISN’T it part of Nada’s rise to fame? All will be revealed! NOTE: Issues beyond our control resulted in some need for re-recording and editing, so sound quality is kind of spotty in this episode. We apologize! Recommended Sake in this Episode: Andrew: Sakura Masamune Kyokai 1 Jim Hakushika Suzuro Shiboritate Futsushu Useful vocabulary for this episode: 灘五郷 Nadagogo - the five villages of Nada. Currently, they are Imazu, Nishinomiya, Uozaki, Mikage, and Nishi. 灘目 Nadame - The original “nada brewing region.” The me is likely a corruption of 辺 be, meaning “area around.” Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Show Notes: Andy and Jim take on Sokujomoto, the incredibly common fast yeast starter. On the way, they explore its linked history with yamahai, talk about how it got so common, and clarify its modern variations. Recommended Sake in this Episode: Andrew: Bijofu Ginjo Rei Jim: Takarabune Junmai Saito no Shizuku Useful vocabulary for this episode: Sokujo Moto - Fast yeast starter. Developed by Kamajiro Eda, first established in detail in an NRIB journal article in 1910, but also hinted at in 1909. Koon Toka - High temperature saccharification fast yeast starter. Also known as amazake moto. Particularly common in Hiroshima brewing. Chuon Toka - Medium temperature saccharification fast yeast starter. Teion Toka - Low temperature saccharification fast yeast starter. Also known as futsusokujo. The original sokujo moto. Kobo Jikomi - “Yeast mashing.” No-starter brewing. Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg

Show Notes: This month, Jim and Andy grind away at the true first stage of sake brewing: rice polishing. Or is it milling? Seimai. Whatever. They work their usual magic looking at the whos, whats, whens, and whys of how genmai becomes hakumai. Come and listen! Recommended Sake in this Episode: Andrew: Kirei Mannen Junmai Ginjo Genshu Jim: Harada Junmai 80 Useful vocabulary for this episode: Seimaibuai - The amount of rice left after milling/polishing, expressed as a percent. Satake - The biggest manufacturer of rice milling equipment in Japan, and thus the world. Shinseimai - A more accurate measure of seimaibuai, done by measuring the weight difference between wholegrain rice and polished rice in thousand-grain batches. Karausu - the original rice hulling technology, consisting of a foot-driven mortar and pestle. Genmai - whole rice, husk and all. Hakumai - white rice, after polishing for eating or brewing. Our theme music is from Lotus Lane by The Loyalist - Preconceived Notions Available at https://soundcloud.com/preconceived-notions Under a Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported— CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: https://bit.ly/lotus-lane Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/1YVHRMVwwHg