The Corsets and Codpieces Podcast

When did women start wearing pants? This goes further back than you might think.

An overall history of female topless-ness.

We know men and women's clothes have different sized pockets. Why is this? Turns out it wasn't always this way. What happened?

What we use to signify gender in our clothing turns into a reflection of the culture and society we stem from. I found more information! I had to share what I learned! So this is Part 2: The "Why". I can't wait to learn even more. Thank you for coming on this journey of curiosity with me, lovely listener. ________________________________________________________________ References: https://www.encyclopedia.com/environment/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/patriarchy-and-matriarchy https://www.dailykos.com/stories/2015/4/11/1376465/-Matriarchy-vs-Patriarchy https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=1344762 Conversing on Gender By: GG Bolich https://books.google.ca/books?id=jxtMLGIdQ8cC&pg=PA295&dq=matriarchal+dress&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi71fbOldjpAhWN4J4KHUDQCaYQ6AEIQjAD#v=onepage&q=matriarchal%20dress&f=false https://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/proof/2017/08/portraits-of-chinese-Mosuo-matriarchs/ https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1179/1041257315Z.00000000073?journalCode=yexm20 ________________________________________________________________

So because I like to torture myself I have decided to do one of the largest, most politically charged topics in a 20 minute episode. I wanted to get a lightening fast overview of patriarchal influences over fashion so that when I do my next episode about fashion under matriarchal societies, I have something to compare it to. Fashion history under patriarchy is so undeniably linked to feelings about women's sexuality so this episode reviews that before and during patriarchy and how we are still try to untangle it today. ______________________________________________________________________ References: https://www.michaelhhallett.com/the-rise-and-fall-of-patriarchy-in-womens-fashion-part-i/ https://www.michaelhhallett.com/the-rise-and-fall-of-patriarchy-in-womens-fashion-part-ii/ https://www.michaelhhallett.com/brief-history-shame/ https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/entry/women-politics-dress-code-patriarchy_l_5d8ba3d6e4b01c02ca627f9c https://feminisminindia.com/2019/05/31/womens-clothes-and-patrirarchy/ https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/apr/25/ask-hadley-fashions-male-gaze https://www.ctvnews.ca/lifestyle/manifestation-of-patriarchy-the-surprising-feminist-history-of-women-s-pockets-1.4225553 https://www.theguardian.com/news/2018/jun/22/the-age-of-patriarchy-how-an-unfashionable-idea-became-a-rallying-cry-for-feminism-today https://warwick.ac.uk/services/library/mrc/archives_online/exhibitions/newwoman/rational/; https://helenrappaport.com/footnotes/rational-dress/ https://psycnet.apa.org/record/2018-04940-001

High heels seem so wrapped up in gender but they are just shoes until history happens. Come and unpack it with me and learn how it became to be this way. ______________________________________________________________________ References: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/heels-history-men https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-heeled_shoe https://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-11-13/why-do-we-wear-high-heeled-shoes/9135936 https://qz.com/quartzy/1317090/its-enlightenment-philosophys-fault-that-women-wear-high-heels-instead-of-men/ https://www.bbc.co.uk/ideas/videos/can-fashion-ever-be-sustainable/p07n7630?playlist=fashion https://www.today.com/style/surprisingly-functional-reason-high-heels-were-invented-t100969 https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/mar/20/sex-power-oppression-why-women-wear-high-heels http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20190509-is-it-the-end-for-high-heels

Let us continue our look through history at different stories about women who dressed as men. A monk, a Civil War spy and a forbidden love. ______________________________________________________________________ References: Overall: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_cross-dressing https://www.ranker.com/list/women-disguised-as-men-in-history/katiefustich Joan of Arc: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_of_Arc https://www.history.com/topics/middle-ages/saint-joan-of-arc https://www.britannica.com/biography/Saint-Joan-of-Arc https://www.ancient.eu/Joan_of_Arc/ http://qspirit.net/joan-of-arc-cross-dressing-lgbtq/ https://history.howstuffworks.com/history-vs-myth/joan-of-arc-trial.htm https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/501179/how-cross-dressing-helped-send-joan-arc-stake http://archive.joan-of-arc.org/joanofarc_male_clothing.html Rena “Rusty” Kanokogi https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rena_Kanokogi https://jwa.org/weremember/kanokogi-rusty https://jwa.org/thisweek/nov/24/2008/rusty-kanokogi Elisa Sanchez Loriga https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_same-sex_marriage_in_Spain https://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=ca&u=https://directa.cat/elisa-i-marcela-la-increible-historia-dun-matrimoni-entre-dones-a-la-galicia-del-1901/&prev=search Marina the Monk https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marina_the_Monk http://catholicsaints.info/saint-marina-of-bithynia/ https://www.oca.org/saints/lives/2017/02/12/100508-venerable-mary-who-was-called-marinus-and-her-father-venerable-e https://www.getty.edu/art/exhibitions/outcasts/downloads/betancourt_transgender_lives.pdf Sarah Emma Edmonds https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarah_Emma_Edmonds https://www.britannica.com/biography/Sarah-Edmonds https://www.battlefields.org/learn/biographies/sarah-emma-edmonds https://www.archives.gov/publications/prologue/1993/spring/women-in-the-civil-war-2.html https://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca/en/article/sarah-edmonds-frank-thompson

Let us look through history and different stories about women who dressed as men. Swashbuckling pirates, the Wild West and ancient Egypt await! __________________________________________________________ References: https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/17735/8-historical-crossdressers-women-mans-world https://interlude.hk/lesbian-diva-swordswoman-julie-daubigny-aka-mademoiselle-maupin/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_cross-dressing https://www.ranker.com/list/women-disguised-as-men-in-history/katiefustich https://www.history.com/topics/ancient-history/hatshepsut https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/50076/why-did-egyptian-pharaohs-wear-false-beards https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatshepsut https://people.wku.edu/haiwang.yuan/China/tales/mulan.htm https://people.wku.edu/haiwang.yuan/China/tales/mulan.htm https://allthatsinteresting.com/hua-mulan https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hua_Mulan https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anne_Bonny https://www.britannica.com/biography/Anne-Bonny https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/if-theres-a-man-among-ye-the-tale-of-pirate-queens-anne-bonny-and-mary-read-45576461/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julie_d%27Aubignyhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julie_d%27Aubigny https://www.factinate.com/people/facts-julie-daubigny/ https://interlude.hk/lesbian-diva-swordswoman-julie-daubigny-aka-mademoiselle-maupin/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charley_Parkhurst http://www.metroactive.com/papers/cruz/03.05.03/charley-0310.html

Why are men's and women's clothing sized differently? Why is women's sizing so confusing? What happened to standard sizing and custom sizing? __________________________________________________________ Resources: https://fashion-incubator.com/why-isnt-womens-clothing-sized-like-mens-pt-2/ https://fashion-incubator.com/why-isnt-womens-clothing-sized-like-mens/ https://www.today.com/style/jeans-don-t-fit-here-s-explanation-inconsistency-women-s-t100419 https://time.com/how-to-fix-vanity-sizing/

I take a look into the purpose of corsets, a quick history of them, some historical misconceptions that made me giggle a little, their ties to feminism and the history of men in corsets too. __________________________________________________________ References: Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America By Jo B Paoletti https://www.britannica.com/topic/corset https://www.theatlantic.com/sexes/archive/2013/03/how-looser-corsets-helped-women-get-the-right-to-vote/274057/ https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/25/t-magazine/fashion/corset-history-feminism.html https://foundationsrevealed.com/articles/corset-making/health/562-busting-corset-myths https://foundationsrevealed.com/index-of-articles/corsetry/corsetpatterns/158-corseting-the-male-form https://glamorouscorset.com/articles/do-men-wear-corsets/

A look at the evolution of pink and blue as gender signifiers in the last century in North America References: "Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America" by Jo B. Paoletti https://www.cnn.com/2018/01/12/health/colorscope-pink-boy-girl-gender/index.html https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/when-did-girls-start-wearing-pink-1370097/

A short introduction telling you what the podcast is all about. Why do men and women wear different clothes? Where does that come from? Any piece of clothing is just cloth until we, as humans, assign meaning to it. These meanings are fluid and changing all the time. Things that seem so concrete now, weren’t always that way. I want to dive deep and see why we have these meanings and deconstruct them. Knowing where these meanings come from can allow each person to decide for themselves if the meanings hold value for them, hopefully allowing more freedom in dress.