Historical Sewing Podcast

If you’ve dabbled even a little in Regency and Edwardian costuming, you’ve more than likely come across the Sensibility Patterns site with lovely sewing patterns and blog posts to inspire the Jane Austen and early 1900s worlds we love. In this episode we’ll get to know the creator of Sense & Sensibility Patterns, Jennie Chancey – from her creative beginnings and influences, favorite costumes and museums, to new changes she’s working on with her pattern line. She has true international experience in various cultures that inspires her projects and skills. Enjoy this delightful and encouraging interview! Show Notes and Mentions -Bring Anne of Green Gables into your world with the original films and associated products from Sullivan Entertainment (no affiliation) -More on HistoryBounding (and RegencyCore) in Podcast 14 –Museum of London -Blog post on Perfectionism in Historical Costuming –Janet Arnold’s Pattern of Fashion 2 (Amazon aflink) or will be available later at The School of Historical Dress, UK –Wearing History blog -Where to find Jennie: Website, Patterns of Time, Sensibility Telegram Channel -Jennifer's other site and for new pattern line: Emma Lily Designs -Find Jennifer on Gab: @JenRosbrugh – Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links. Contact us by email at sewing at historicalsewing dot com or on our Contact Page.

As we age, those of us who have been creative over the years can look back at all we’ve accomplished and be amazed. We can also ponder what we’d still like to learn and remember those crafts that have truly meant the world to us. Perhaps we even recall how sewing and crafting have been the bright light comforting us through dark times. In today’s episode, Jennifer sits down with her mother, Liz, to chat about the crafts, sewing projects, and most loved tools she’s used over the last few decades. Reminisce with us about flour sacks, needlepoint projects, and what, truly, is the reason we create and share. Cheers! Show Notes and Mentions -Because all costumes are awesome! My blog post discussing our BUB group. -Flour sack books: Feedsack Secrets by Gloria Nixon and a new book coming out in November 2019: Feed Sacks: The Colorful History of a Frugal Fabric by Linzee Kull McCray –Beaded calendar kits by Design Works -Follow Merja Palkivaara on Instagram Crocheted pitcher cover in action at a Civil War reenactment event Black velvet kinsale cloak –Society for Creative Anachronism –American Duchess 18th Century Shoes –Redthreaded corset patterns and kits – Tell Cynthia you found her here! –Bobbin lace info on Wikipedia –Dress a Girl Around the World Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Occasionally we get quite wrapped up in our main area of crafting. Right? Yet, other hobbies and interests in the creative fields call to us. You know, that “someday I want to learn” [fill in the blank] thought. We’re all about sewing around here. But every once in a while we want to tackle something different. A different skill, a new craft. We humans are wildly creative and multi-faceted. Our lives would be boring to keep to one main focus. Today I want to give you some inspiration and a kick in the pants to pursue that craft or hobby that continually calls to you but that you keep pushing away. Stop that! Let’s make a point to finally attempt it – no matter what level of success we achieve. It might very well stick with us for the rest of our lives or go into time out forever. At least you tried! Now get going – Cheers! Show Notes and Mentions Examples for you to consider: –Blog post on Jennifer’s learning to knit -Jennifer teaches sewing at the Historical Sewing School -The online knitted lace class Jennifer loves – at BluPrint (no affiliate) – Heirloom Lace Edgings with Franklin Habit –The Ornament Girl website and follow her on Instagram Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Perhaps you’ve been thinking about how to incorporate your love of historical fashion with your everyday lifestyle but find it challenging to wear a bustle dress to your weekly grocery store outing. You are not alone! So many of us in the historical costuming community have – for years! – been trying to add those styles of bygone days into our daily lives. Jennifer gets us started in this episode with ideas on approaching this idea of #historybounding (a fairly new term) for our modern wardrobes with encouragement that YES! it can be done with comfort and functionality. Show Notes and Mentions -Online classes at the Historical Sewing School –Podcast episode 002 on being creative when you’re not a designer -Book: the curated closet by Anuschka Rees -Book: The Edwardian Modiste edited by Frances Grimble (yes, it’s really expensive now; look for a used copy or check your local library) –Blog post on the Wearing History corset cover pattern made as a modern top –Morgan Donner's blog post about HistoryBounding -Movie: Kate & Leopold Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Aside from fabric and needle, thread is the other absolute necessary component for sewing. lol But is there thread that’s better than others? Join Jennifer in this episode to find out her favorite threads to use for general sewing by machine and hand. Take notes for tips on colors, conditioners, and available quality products. Show Notes and Mentions –Coats & Clark thread is one of my go-to as well as Gutermann threads. -For using silk thread, YLI thread and Gutermann are recommended. Linen thread can be found at Burnley & Trowbridge. -To practice your hand sewing with various threads, get started with my Hand Stitches for 18th Century Sewing Class. -For special thread for sergers, I recommend Maxi-Lock, or Aurifil, or Gutermann Toldi Lock. -Thread conditioners: beeswax or Thread Magic Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Not every project needs to be a BIG one. Even in the process of sewing basic things there is the advantage of keeping the mind fresh, exploring new techniques, and finding the joy again – with no pressure to “perform.” In this quick episode Jennifer gives a dose of encouragement where even if your current sewing is a bit boring, the consistency of moving forward can inspire and refresh you for new, bigger projects. Show Notes and Mentions -Current (mundane) Burda dirndl pattern (B7057) I’m sewing. –Wearing History Smooth Sailing Togs blouse and trousers -Use the Truly Victorian TV170 petticoat pattern to work on your basic skills. -The Victorian Undergarments online class to complete basic projects while keeping the forward momentum. Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Feeling overwhelmed with piles of patterns, fabrics, trims, books and more in your sewing room? Ready to dump it all and start fresh? Or at least find a way to manage all the things? We’ll take a look at the popular KonMari Method of tidying and how it applies to sewing and crafting items to help give you a set of guidelines for dealing with the clutter and to free your mind and space for new creative projects. Show Notes and Mentions -Marie Kondo’s book: The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up -Kondo’s follow up book: Spark Joy – Read this one, too, as she addresses those questions that come up when reading her Life-Changing Magic book such as keeping tons of books if you love them and tools that don’t necessarily give you joy but make your life easier. -Read my accompanying blog post on this topic of decluttering. -It’s important to refine your vision of what you want your sewing space to look like and how you want it to work for YOU. -Everything has come into our life for a reason, a purpose, a season. Have appreciation for each item; display, store, use and discard things with gratitude. -Discard things by either giving away, donating, selling, or tossing into the trash. -The KonMari categories as I relate them to sewing stuff: ClothingBooksDocumentsKomono/MiscFabricTrims, LaceNotionsSewing ToolsSentimental –Tim Ferriss' interview with Marie Kondo –Spark Joy Podcast hosted by KonMari Consultants: Kristyn Ivey and Karin Socci. I recommend episode 25 on KonMari Myths and Missteps. Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Welcome to 19th century England! Whether or not you celebrate Christmas, most of us are familiar with the modern activities and traditions seen during December in the Western world. What you might not know, however, is that most of them came about during the Victorian Era in England, that is, Queen Victoria's reign from 1837 to 1901. However, America produced some of our long-standing Christmas traditions, too. In this episode we'll look at celebrations developed in the 19th Century (say hello to the 1840s!) that have been carried through nearly two centuries! Be inspired to add some of these traditions and merrymaking to your own holiday festivities. Merry Christmas!! The Christmas Tree - drawing of the royal family and first published in 1848 in the Illustrated London News. Show Notes and Mentions -History of Christmas by the BBC -A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens, first published in 1843 -List of Christmas Carols and their definition -A Visit from Saint Nicholas by Clement C Moore -The legend and history of Santa Claus from the A&E History Channel "Merry Old Santa Claus," Harper's Weekly, January 1, 1881, p.8-9. -Thomas Nast as "creator" of Santa Claus -A Victorian Christmas by Historic UK -Gift giving ideas from Mimi Matthews -Recipe for English Plum Pudding -Recipe for Easy Mince Pies -The History of Christmas from the A&E History Channel -History of Christmas Trees from the A&E History Channel -Victorian Christmas by Victorian Children -History and background of the Yule Log Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Is cotton historically appropriate to use for Victorian bustle dresses? Enthusiastically -YES! Day and evening wear from the 1870s and 1880s abounds in various cotton weaves used in the late 19th century. In this episode Jennifer talks about her favorite fabric, cotton, with its wonderful properties of being easy-to-sew, breatheable, washable and with strength and elegance depending on the weave you use. Show Notes and Mentions –Cottons for historical costumes blog post -Museums mentioned: V&A Victoria & Albert Museum, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, LACMA Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and KCI Kyoto Costume Institute -Jennifer’s Pinterest boards for Bustle Day Dresses and the 1870s-1880s Bustle Era -Blog post on flatlining skirts in cotton –Polished cotton called Rain No Stain in the home dec section at Joann Fabrics -The photo below is my 1876 evening gown reproduction made from cotton Swiss batiste as a substitute for the original “Indian muslin” recommendation. Jennifer’s 1876 reproduction gown from the July Godey’s Lady’s Book fashion plate -My blog post on using cottons for bustle foundation skirts -Read my blog post on flatlining bodices including cotton weaves/fabrics appropriate for doing so. -Robert Kaufman (not Robert Allen as I say in the episode) cotton lawn at Hart’s Fabrics (no affiliate) but can be found at other shops if you search. -Swiss batiste, shirtings and other cotton fabrics from Farmhouse Fabrics (no affiliate) -This photo below is my 1887 Summer Berry Trifle dress made from cotton shirting fabric. 1887 Summer Berry Trifle dress made from cotton shirting fabric; the underskirt is mounted to a cotton twill. –Podcast #003 on Organdy -Prewash your cottons! Read more about pre-treating in the washing machine here. –1871 Harvest Grape Dress used as the sample for my Bustle Day Dress Class. –1880 Dressing Gown in cotton lawn flatlined in cotton muslin. –1883 Caramel Apple Dress in basic quilting cottons. Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes or on Stitcher to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Start increasing your sewing efficiency by using a sewing journal! Make your journal as detailed or as open as fits YOUR sewing style - we are all different with our creativity and organization. This episode covers Jennifer walking through how she puts together project pages in her journal. She includes tips for how you can organize your projects encompassing those really important items as well as ideas for various types of journal systems. Show Notes and Mentions -Blog post on keeping a sewing journal -Naming your costumes is helpful - my blog post on that topic. -Blog post on NOT reinventing the wheel (or sewing pattern) -My 3.5" x 24" ruler for waistbands -Evernote note taking app Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

No matter how long you've been sewing and making historical ensembles, one of the biggest challenges that presents itself with each project is getting the silhouette "correct." That look you create that identifies your costume as being from a specific fashion era and is recognizable as such. The key is to work with your specific body type, with its assets and flaws, to get the right silhouette. In this episode Jennifer expands on this idea and gives examples that will have you re-think how you approach making undergarments. Show Notes and Mentions -Truly Victorian TV163 Imperial Bustle pattern (link to my Old Petticoat Shop) -My online class: Bustle Day Dress -Follow Merja of Before the Automobile on Instagram Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Where would we be without tools in our sewing box? Amongst all those wonderful items, we each have our favorites - those that give us joy when we use them. Yet, we also have those gadgets that we use often but aren't necessarily a favorite (seam ripper, anyone?). Listen in as Jennifer goes through her list of favorite sewing implements - with her tips on how and why they are used - as well as her most often used and needed tools that she couldn't sew without. Show Notes and Mentions -Tutorial for a Needlepoint Tracing Wheel -A variety of uses of a Seam Gauge -Hand sewing with Thread Heaven -Pearl head pins for pretty sewing -My online sewing classes where I demonstrate how and where I use the tools mentioned in the episode -Karin McKechnie-Lid, designer and dressmaker at Lily Absinthe -Various options for pattern paper Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

It’s Halloween time! As costumers and Victorian lovers it’s a holiday that many of us embrace. In this episode Jennifer shares a bit of backstory to this All Hallows Eve along with some activities even Queen Victoria herself participated in. You’ll also get inspiration for your holiday meals and a few costume ideas too! Happy Halloween! Show Notes and Mentions –The Traditions of Halloween by The Virtual Victorian –A Victorian Halloween Party by Mimi Matthews –Victorian Mourning and Funeral Customs in the 1890s by Victoriana -Halloween at Balmoral, 6 November 1874, article from Staffordshire Sentinel on British National Archives –Fancy Dresses Described by Ardern Holt Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

We all came into historical costuming through various channels and with varied goals and inspirations. Maybe you are new to sewing or just getting started in your research and building historical fashion. In this episode Jennifer gives tips for newbies - and the rest of us too! - with no matter how you came to this wonderful hobby or what pushed you to begin sewing historical garments and accessories. Whether you are a researcher, engineer, or decorator, your creative input in our community is valid and valuable. So happy you are joining us. Enjoy your journey! And above all - remember to follow your gut instincts and WHY you want to be creative in historical costuming. Show Notes and Mentions -Movies that inspired me in childhood: Slipper and the Rose (1976), Anne of Green Gables (1985) and Summer Magic (1963) -Truly Victorian sewing patterns -Sense & Sensibility sewing patterns -Costumer's Guild West (CGW) group based in the Los Angeles area -19th Century painters mentioned: James Tissot and Franz Xaver Winterhalter -Seam Finishes blog post -You Can't Be 100% Historically Accurate blog post -Jennifer's Pinterest page with boards divided into fashion time periods -Victorian Corset Class taught online by Jennifer Rosbrugh -Foundations Revealed article website -Corset makers mentioned: Redthreaded and Period Corsets -Get over the perfectionism that exists in this hobby -Online Regency Corset Class taught by Jennifer Episodes are released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases and have first access to new episodes as they are released. Find the podcast on other platforms by visiting the Podcast page for links.

Organdy is a beautiful fabric ideal for a variety of historical and vintage garments as well as inner layer/underlining support. Learn about the technical details including the weave, finish variances, and differences from organza and crinoline materials. Jennifer will cover various garments, accessories and trims where organdy is best used with sewing tips that help you use this marvelous fabric. Show Notes and Mentions -My main Organdy blog post -Corded Petticoat Workbook for more info and two sewing methods for this undergarment -Book: Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 7th Edition -Book: All About Cotton by Julie Parker -Farmhouse Fabrics as a resource of Swiss and other high quality organdies -Skirt hem facings blog post -Flatlining large sleeves blog post -1830 Slytherin Dress where organdy is in the top puff -1873 Blackberry Cream Dress with apron overskirt flatlined in organdy -Make your organdy petticoats in my online sewing class -Resources for purchasing organdy: Pure Silks, Needle & Thread (aka Wooded Hamlet), Vogue Fabrics, Renaissance Fabrics, Mood Fabrics, Online Fabric Store Episodes will be released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases!

You have a new historical costume idea. But how do you approach making it? What does the process look like in putting it together? In this episode Jennifer breaks down the development of creating an ensemble through her own action steps with tips you can apply to your projects. We'll also chat about places where inspiration can come from using items and places to push our designs forward to completion. Everyone who sews and builds historical ensembles has their unique way of going through the steps to completion. In future episodes with guest interviews we'll get a chance to hear how others in our community approach their costuming and achieve the desired result. Show Notes and Mentions -Design and inspiration ideas from nature, original garments, artwork, fabrics, jewelry, movies and shows and more -Book: Steal Like an Artist by Austin Kleon -Historically-designed shoes from American Duchess -1887 Summer Berry Trifle Dress from Farmhouse Fabrics shirting fabric -1838 Persimmon Puff Dress inspired by the original at the Met Museum -My "Dress of Wrong" - 1884 Steelers Royalty dress -New Truly Victorian pattern TV430 1878 Polonaise -Wearing History 19-Teens/WWI patterns: Circa 1916 Jacket & Skirt Suit and Evelyn-Circa 1917 Skirt -Mockup and fitting articles -Make your undergarments and outer garments in my online sewing classes -Search the blog for loads of sewing instruction tutorials Episodes will be released on Wednesdays. Be sure to subscribe on iTunes to keep updated on new releases!

All too often - or at least more times than we'd like - we seem to fall off the bandwagon and our sewing seems like drudgery. In this episode Jennifer shares her tips on how to get out of the slump so you can keep moving forward and stay motivated on your projects. Show Notes and Mentions -Search for tutorials on my blog, HistoricalSewing.com -Start research with my Pinterest boards: @jenrosbrugh Be sure to subscribe to the podcast! Find all episodes here: https://historicalsewing.com/podcast