Late Drop: The Big Wave Podcast

A conversation with the only man to win four championships at Jaws Welcome to Episode Ten of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — Stay tuned here for more Late Drop episodes. Professional big-wave surfers are humans of another ilk. And even among that elite group, there are those that set themselves apart from the rest: Laird. Dorian… Billy. A former WSL Big Wave World Champion, Maui native Billy Kemper has won the Peahi Challenge four times. To win at Jaws just once takes a special kind of devotion and a unique competitive edge. His performance at what many consider to be the greatest giant wave in the world is so dominant, it’s almost mysterious. In this episode of Late Drop, Kemper unravels a bit of that mystery for us, among other revelations. 0:00 Recent session at glassy Jaws, Doing the WSL Challenger series in Europe 12:12 His unique approach to Jaws, Training under Laird Hamilton, Looking for the biggest barrel ever, His equipment preference and custom Futures big-wave fin 28:03 Surfing Maverick’s, Growing up on Maui, Competitive relationship with Albee 35:43 Working hard, Providing for his family, Taking competition seriously, His legacy at Jaws 46:18 Training with Kahea Hart, Committing himself to fitness and nutrition 59:30 Horrible accident in Morocco, Nearly losing his identity, Putting life into perspective 1:08:22 Plans for this winter, Looking for new barrels, Winning events This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The hard-charging big-wave world champion from Kauai that goes by the name of KK. Presented by http://futuresfins.com “I was pretty much raised by savage wolves,” said 2018 Womens Big Wave World Champion, Keala Kennelly, “But it turned me into a warrior.” Those wolves? Kauai boys. The Irons. The Alexanders. Heavys like that. And warrior, indeed. Unapologetically herself—and a rad one, at that—Keala’s actions have always spoken louder than words. From a successful career on the CT, to breaking glass ceilings at Code Red Teahupoo, to plain being an inspiration to generations of girls following in her footsteps, this is a very special episode. Spill that tea, KK. 0:00 Growing up in Hanalei, Kauai, Living near the Irons’ and other surf stars, Competing with the boys in contests, Using her anger to charge big waves, Growing up in a surfing family, Nearly becoming a cop after losing sponsors 8:50 Finding surfing with the Irons’ and dreaming of becoming a pro, Qualifying for the World Tour at 17, The sentiment toward women competitors back then, No women in the Triple Crown of Surfing for a decade, Giving women more opportunities to rise to the occasion in competition 20:28 Being on Tour, Winning at Teahupoo 4X, Runner-Up to world champion, Layne Beachley’s dominace, Never recovering from that 2nd place finish, Leaving the Tour for acting, Giving her Tour spot to Michelle 29:35 Becoming a season regular on HBO show, Living in LA for a year for the show, Show gets cancelled and economy crashes 35:53 Coming out of the closet while being a pro surfer, Losing all her sponsors, Becoming a charging, heavy water freesurfer, Begging guys at Teahupoo from the channel to tow her in during big swells 44:09 Ripping off half her face during Code Red Swell, Winning first ever big wave womens tour event at Nelscott Reef, Oregon, Winning biggest barrel of the year at XXL Awards and nominated for an ESPY award, First woman ever to be invited to The Eddie 56:47 Competing in the first few Peahi Challenge womens events, Winning a big wave world title in 2018, Advice to young women coming up and following in her footsteps This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The San Diego big-wave icon and author articulating the realities of head trauma Welcome to Episode Six of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — Stay tuned here for more Late Drop episodes. In big-wave surfing — much like normal-wave surfing — the audience usually sees two things: the makes and wipeouts. Both, very entertaining; both, which earn guys and girls awards each year. What we don’t see, however, is what those wipeouts can do to a person, over and over, over time. What a concussion — let alone, multiple concussions — can do to someone. Perhaps, this is the big-wave world’s taboo topic, but San Diego charger and big-wave awards winner, Derek Dunfee, has done a whole lot to articulate (and write a book about) the effects big-wave surfing can have on your brain, specifically, one that is concussed. In this very special episode of The Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell and Derek Dunfee get real about the “network of issues,” one might see from multiple head traumas in the sport they love. 0:00: Growing up in San Diego, Surfing La Jolla, Windansea, Surfing every single day, History of the Windansea surf club and hut, Learning to surf from Dad, Doing NSSA events, Surfing different types of boards/guns/fishes 9:52: Becoming a Tavarua boatman, Getting sponsored by Volcom, Getting into big waves, Being used to respecting the locals and etiquette (from La Jolla), Not getting waves at spots at first 21:12: Derek’s path to Maverick’s, Friendship with Zach Wormhoudt, Going to Todos Santos, Being selfless and watching people/doing safety from the Ski 33:20: Fostering the new, younger generation, Being patient, Getting his first concussion at Cloudbreak, The Turkey Day swell and his XXL award winning wave 42:45: Derek’s beginning of his “end” of surfing big waves, Symptoms Derek would feel from his concussions, The series of hitting his head on reef at spots, Nearly drowning at Cortez Bank, Encountering anxiety with big waves, Not being able to focus his right eye, Network of issues 52:32: The dark period while writing his book, Finding a specialist to work with about concussions, The incredible responses on social media, Getting his lived saved by Shawn Dollar 1:02:43: Being there to listen about concussions, Helmets, Derek’s day to day routine, Hyperbaric chamber 1:14:51: How does someone know when they’ve had a concussion, Researching CTE, Derek’s book: “Waking Up in the Sea” This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The Aussie big-wave surfer-shaper that’s packed bombs with the best of them. The surfer-shaper is truly a special kind of surfer. They know what works, what doesn’t, and all the nuance in between because they’ve had their paws on every curve and concave of the craft, over and over and over again. But the big-wave surfer shaper? Like Dylan Longbottom? That’s another kind of responsibility. A guy like Dyl—who has packed bombs from Teahupoo to Shippies—he knows the level of quality a board in that type of surf deserves. A guy, who after 30 years of professionally freesurfing big waves, is now shaping boards for the crew (and Lucas Chumbo) out at Nazare: Dyl and his boards have seen places few surfers on the planet have. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Dylan Longbottom shares with Jamie Mitchell how he got his life to this point. 0:00 Growing up in Cronulla and then the South Coast, Having a dad that was a surfer/glasser, Being a kid working in the shaping bay, Got picked up by Billabong at 18 as a freesurfer, Making videos with Bali Strickland while still shaping 10:31 Got his bricklayer apprenticeship, Shaped his first board at 24, The Billabong Challenge at the South Coast 17:55 Began surfing with straps and tow surfing in the 2000s, Practicing rotations for air-game 23:50 Getting into big-wave surfing, Relationship with surfing huge Teahupoo, Shipsterns Bluff, The pivotal session at Shipsterns with Andy, Parko and Laurie Towner 32:46 The Code Red Swell success, Getting his equipment dialed at Teahupoo, Shaping for guys out at Teahupoo, Worst experience at Teahupoo 42:35 Filming stunt work for Point Break at Teahupoo, Focusing on the Australian big waves for Billabong’s Adventure Division 48.43 Shaping for guys like Lucas Chumbo, Surfing Nazare, The way he’s kept his surf career alive this whole time 54:19 Dealing with his most horrible experience at Nazare, Going from quads back to thrusters on boards, 1:05:10 Surfing big waves with his daughter, Where he sees big-wave surfing going, Where he sees big-wave equipment going This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

It ain’t easy on a kid moving over to the North Shore of Maui from the Mainland — let alone another country. Sardinia’s Francisco Porcella, however, is cut from a different cloth. And even though he learned to surf off of a large island in the Mediterranean Sea, the dashing Italian stepped up to the plate very quickly as a teenager on Maui — and joined the league of gentlemen and women at Jaws that led the paddle-in new era. Eventually, after about a decade of working at the big-wave game, Francisco was making his mark, surfing the Jaws events, winning the XXL “Biggest Wave Award,” and turning heads wherever he arrived. Never a one-trick Italian stallion, he also gets his kicks skydiving, and, well, being an Italian celebrity (See: Dancing With the Stars). In the newest episode of The Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell gets the goods from this international man of mystery. HIGHLIGHTS 0:00 Growing up in Sardinia, Italy, Playing soccer seriously, Bombing hills in Sardinia, Quitting soccer to move to Hawaii and surf big waves, Windsurfing seriously then getting into big wave surfing, Having a life in Sardinia playing outside 7:46 Watersports and surf scene in Sardinia, Surfing Jaws at the time when it went from Tow to Paddle, His inspirational session with Sion and Nate 14:31 Moving to Maui at 14 years old, Proving himself on Maui, Getting a JetSki, Beginning to tow at 18 years old, Chasing the big-wave dream in his early years, Parents moved back to Sardinia and Francisco and brother stayed on Maui, Trying for 10 years before a break 23:16 Inspired by Shane Dorian, Enjoying the power of Nature, Skydiving with wind suits, Training yourself mentally in extreme sports to translate into big waves, The friendships you build in big-waves 34:17: The struggles in big-wave competitions, Maintaining the dream at Jaws, Winning biggest wave of year, Going back to Italy and being on some TV shows, Getting sponsors through the TV gigs while basing in Sardinia, Sharing that stoke with the younger watermen and women of Sardinia 48:04 Big wave goals for the future, The richness of experiences 50:15 Advice to the younger generation following in his footsteps This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

from Pico Alto to Puerto Escondido—the Peruvian King holds court… Welcome to Episode XX of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include, XXXX and others. Stay tuned here for more. Being a professional surfer—let alone professional big-wave surfer—is no easy livelihood. Now, try being one from Peru. The flights are long no matter what, the support can be hard to find, and you’re often overlooked by superstars coming from waves like Jaws. Not Peruvian Gabriel Villaran. A man who’s made it his life’s goal to carve out a seat at the table for his country in the big-wave convo (and beyond), Gabriel’s been impressing the world for decades now. From his homebreak of Pico Alto, to Jaws, to Puerto Escondido, to Todos Santos...from what you’ve seen of the man, you may have even forgotten that he’s a multiple national champion, South American and ISA world champ. You know…in normal-sized surf. On the cusp of Peruvian surfers’ arrival to this year’s Olympic Games in Japan, Gabriel Villaran and Jamie Mitchell chop it up on the newest episode of the Late Drop. 0:00 Peruvians qualifying for Olympic Games, Growing up in Lima, Peru, The connection between Peru and Hawaii 12:46 Getting into big waves in Peru, Surfing Pico Alto for first time, Pico Alto (Explained) 21:50 Gabriel’s professional career, Father passing away, Surfing career his only option, Meeting Strider in Hawaii, 2008 big results, Transitioning into a big-wave surfer, Todos Santos event 32:39 Making the finals of the first Jaws event, Relationship with Puerto Escondido, The next generation of young Peruvian big-wave surfers, The struggle of being a South American pro surfer 45:04 Winning the ISA Games in Peru, Beating Australia, Coach Davo, Tow days with Strider and Quik crew in Teahupoo 52:04 Big-wave searches and projects with Red Bull, Realizing the fragility of life, Worst wipeouts in his career (at Pipeline and at Jaws) 1:06:30 The international big-wave This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Class is in session with the Maverick’s Mathematician Welcome to Episode XX of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include, XXXX and others. Stay tuned here for more. It's funny how things are a thing—until they’re simply not. “There’s no such thing as a proper 20-foot [Hawaiian] wave in California.” That used to be a thing…until Maverick’s came along, and California’s 20-foot taboo was lifted. A mighty man that’s sure seen a whole lot go down out there in the last 30 years straight is Grant Washburn. From just he and a couple takers in the lineup, to what the break is now—and nearly every moment between—the level of devotion, passion, and knowledge the man has for the break, is unmatched. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell settles into his desk and takes some notes from the professor himself. 0:00 Growing up as a kid on the East Coast, being fixated on big-wave surfing as a kid; Never thinking he’d surf big waves coming from Connecticut; The moment as a child during a hurricane swell when he realized he loved bigger surf; Putting in the time 12:09 Being known as the guy who understood ocean conditions well; Moving to San Francisco and surfing big Ocean Beach; Hearing about Maverick’s and then surfing Mav’s for first time 22:33 Mav’s breaking the taboo about a 20-ft wave in California; Going out and being committed from that moment on; Mav’s in the 90s; the battle between Pete Mel and Flea, with Jay Moriarty; Jay’s commitment/influence at Maverick’s and beyond 42:20 This past winter’s monumental waves; Pete’s wave and how he got it; The special swell in December 2020; Figuring out the new lineups at Mav’s this past winter 1:01:10 New frontiers at Mav’s (or, swells between last December’s and January’s); Optimal equipment for specific Mav’s swells; the correct period/seconds for the best Mav’s swells; January being the biggest clean day he’s ever seen 1:09:13 Playing the “Notches Game”; Surfing with Twiggy and the South African guys; Giving Twiggy a chance in the contest 1:15:29 Grant’s project with PBS and climate change 1:20:15 The best surfers Grant has seen at Mav’s through the decades; Grant’s best ofs at Mav’s; Best equipment for Mav’s This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Late Drop Big Wave Podcast with Carlos Burle Brazil’s godfather of big-wave surfing Presented by http://futuresfins.com Throughout the course of history, what were once deemed “absolute truths,” are often no so absolute anymore. Stuff like: The world is flat. How certain peoples don’t have the capacity to vote. An electric car will never have the power of a gas-fueled one. Brazilians aren’t a threat in big waves. Then someone comes along and shatters that entire way of thinking. For that last one, it was Carlos Burle. A guy that came on the scene and won the Big Wave World Championships at Todos Santos in 1998, then bagged a world record for biggest wave at Maverick’s in 2001, Carlos paved the way for other Brazilian world champions and record holders like Gabriel Medina, Maya Gabeira, and as of late, Lucas Chumbo. Jamie Mitchell speaks with this very influential and positive human in the newest episode of The Late Drop. 0:00 Making the decision to become a surfer and live that lifestyle as a teenager, Being told he can’t be a pro surfer, Having to leave his home/Brazil to make a living as pro surfer 12:43 Getting the bug for big-wave surfing, Realizing his advantage in Brazil when contests were bigger, Winning a trip to Peru, Traveling to Hawaii in 1986-87 for first season, His dedication to big waves in Hawaii, Losing his sponsors because of his love for big-wave surfing 23:13 Winning the 1998 Todos Santos event and becoming a big wave world champion, Changing people’s minds about Brazilian big-wave surfers 31:14 Breaking the World Record, Being forced to travel around the world since no big waves in Brazil, Pre-Brazilian Storm movement with big-waves 40:10 Mentoring Maya Gabeira, Building up Maya’s image/persona to her winning a World Record 52:25 Mentoring Lucas Chumbo, Connecting the dots between his talents and results, Lucas hooking up with Kai Lenny 59:48 Winning the Big Wave World Title(s), Being first Brazilian to surf the Eddie, His wave at Nazaré, Creating new Futures fins, Dialing in the right equipment 1:08:51 Carlos’ 5-to-Finish This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

If it’s heaving, you just know Laurie’s gonna go. PRESENTED BY https://futuresfins.com When Billabong sent 19-year-old Laurie Towner to one of the scariest waves on the planet during a massive swell with top-shelf pros Andy Irons and Joel Parkinson in 2006, few expected the Angourie hell boy to actually step up to the plate — much less rule the whole field. While most of the crew spent the day getting towed into terrifying kegs at Shipstern’s Bluff, Laurie casually paddled into the bomb of the day — and cemented his reputation as a heavy-water star. Towner almost immediately switched from competing in pro contests to chasing big waves and backless slabs all over the world as a professional freesurfer for Billabong, resulting in XXL Awards, video parts and magazine covers galore. But the career of a daredevil can be a fickle one. Towner was only 25 when he lost his main sponsor despite nonstop accolades and countless brushes with death. It turned out to be blessing in disguise as he was able to focus on his young family while remaining a standout in historic swell events, from the Code Red Swell at Teahupo’o to the Thundercloud Reef sessions in Fiji. Now, with a fresh sponsor and a newfound focus on Jaws, Laurie Towner’s best may be yet to come. Episode Highlights: 0:00 Growing up in Angourie, Surfing the more raw, powerful reefs/slabs around Angourie, Competing in the amateurs, Becoming a pro surfer 14:30 Laurie’s iconic wave at Shipstern’s at 19 years old, Switching from contests to chasing heavy waves, Becoming a professional freesurfer for Billabong, The trip to Tasmania with Andy Irons and Parko 23:32 Deciding that his path was to chase big waves, Training in big slabs in Oz before “big waves” elsewhere, Losing his sponsor at 25, His relationship with big Teahupoo, The Code Red Swell, Being selective at a place like Teahupoo 36:44 Getting on the “Point Break” movie stuntman crew, Nearly killing himself while filming 50:23 Losing sponsor becoming a blessing, Watching his children grow up, Getting sponsored by needessentials, Getting the wave of his life at Cloudbreak 56:44 Getting sponsored again and surfing big Jaws, What it takes to make a big-wave surfer, Advice to young big-wave surfers 1:31:02 Laurie’s 5-to-Finish This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

When the big-wave GOAT speaks — we listen. Jamie Mitchell's Late Drop Big Wave Podcast with Shane Dorian. Season 3 Episode 1 Presented by Futures Fins. Every so often, in certain eras across certain disciplines, an athlete doesn’t just change the way we look at a team — he or she changes the way we look at the sport itself. A little over a decade ago, Shane Dorian did that with big-wave surfing out at Jaws. He raised the bar out there in XXL paddle-surfing, setting a precedent for all others to follow, while innovating and progressing that bar himself. Now a self-proclaimed surf-dad (geez, imagine if your pops was Shane Dorian?!) the big-wave GOAT talks with Jamie Mitchell at length in episode one of Season 3 of the Late Drop. And, yeah, this one’s a BANGER. Buckle up and enjoy. Show Highlights 0:00: Currently chasing his son Jackson’s dreams, meeting up with family in Nicaragua, surfing with his two kids, on being a different dad than his own father, proving something to his dad, on being a parent. 14:09: Moving to the North Shore of Oahu at 15, becoming a pro surfer with Ross Williams and Jason Mags, Shane’s first day on the North Shore (and it’s 20-feet Hawaiian), hanging with Todd Chesser and Brock Little. 25:51: Realizing that he loved being scared, surfing with a guy like Brock Little in a more dangerous time pre-safety, crazy outer reef near-drowning session and getting back on the horse, jumping a level. 37:22: Losing Todd Chesser, realizing how dangerous it is, qualifying for the CT, being on Tour for a decade, getting totally jaded with the tour, longing for big-wave surfing. 46:23: Began towing into XXL waves, 2009 wanted to paddle Jaws on proper days, paddled big Jaws with big board and PSI vest, paradigm shift, Mav’s session where he almost died, epiphany on plane with the safety vests. 59:58: The real goal of big-wave surfing, the result of the floatation vest movement, big-wave board design/innovation. 1:07:08: Some of Shane’s best waves of his life, being at his peak at Jaws in 2015, shane’s method in sessions vs contests. 1:15:48: Missing the last XXL swell at Cloudbreak, Fiji, the Cortes Bank disaster, Shane’s current mindset in big-wave surfing, the future of Jaws and Mav’s. 1:31:02: Shane’s 5-to-Finish, This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

There’s a lot of surfers out there trying to live their best version of the movie “North Shore.” Spoiler alert: It ain’t that easy. Getting good waves at places like Pipeline, let alone Jaws, require years of beatdowns, humblings, moments of glory, and respect to pay off. Nobody knows this more than Hawaii Island’s Mikey “Redd” O’Shaughnessy, who, for over a decade, started from the bottom of the pack to become a yearly standout on the North Shore. (He’s won the coveted WOTW, mind you.) Of course, even WOTW champions aren’t invincible, and on the recent Valentine’s Pipeline swell, Mikey nearly lost his life in the pursuit. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell talks with Mikey about working your way up the ladder — and his harrowing experience two weeks ago. https://northshorelifeguards.org/ to learn more about the North Shore Lifeguard Association and here to donate https://www.paypal.com/us/fundraiser/charity/2292692 . 3:00 Healing from his recent accident, Growing up in Puna on Big Island (Hawaii Island), Paddling canoe and surfing slabs, Dabbling in the other island sports like fishing/hunting, Being inspired by big brother Dallas and other Big Island guys like Ikaika Kalama, Kelii Mamala, Being a steersman during paddling 12:41 Dreaming of surfing North Shore/Eddie Aikau Invitational, The values of local community, Dropped out of high school to move to North Shore and become a pro surfer, Working his way up the pecking order from since 14 years old, Life and death struggle at Pipeline, Fixating on both Pipe and Waimea Bay 23:41 Going to Tahiti and fixating on Teahupoo, Winning the 2016 WOTW at OTW, Getting picked up by Volcom, Making his way to Jaws, Getting knocked out and coming to underwater at Jaws 41:22 The Valentine’s Day Pipeline swell, Watching the waves all day and looking for his window, Knocked out on impact, Next moment on the beach on a stretcher, Getting rescued/the scenario, North Shore lifeguards taking over saving him 59:40 Taking lifesaving skills classes as a requirement for big wave surfing, Learning the skills to be in those conditions, Being grateful to be alive 62:12 Mikey’s 5-to-Finish This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

If they made a Mt. Rushmore of influential Californian big-wave surfers, a couple names would probably come to mind off the bat. Peter Mel. Greg Long. Of course, four spots just isn’t fair, but the footprints of a lean, former pro surfer turned big-wave specialist from Laguna Beach nicknamed Snips loom large, indeed. From pivotal sessions at Todos Santos and Mav’s, to exploring and bagging world records at Cortes Bank, to barrels at Jaws…Snips has seen some things. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell raps out with the man who deserves a face etched in stone. 0:00​ Wavepool talk, Growing up in Laguna Beach, CA, Surfing steep shorebreak, Amateur comp career, Trouble reading in school, Parents supporting his surfing career 14:00​ Getting 2nd in US Championships, Traveling with NSSA national team, Getting into big wave surfing in Hawaii, Competing against the elements, Starting/selling VonZipper, Getting on the Billabong Oddysey team, 1998 Todos Santos session K2 Challenge 29:11​ Teaming up with Brad Gerlach, Getting into surf forecasting with Sean Collins, Getting his pilot’s license 37:02​ The Cortez Bank mission in 2001, Catches 66-foot wave that day, Going back to Cortez in 2008 with Twiggy and Greg Long, Catches 77-foot wave for world record 46:56​ Relationship with Maverick’s, Mark Foo’s death at Mav’s, Watching out for friends while surfing big waves 57:45​ Breaking his back, The Big Wave World Tour, Memorable big waves of his life, Watching Laird tow surfing at Jaws for the first time 1:11:21​ Snip’s 5-to-Finish This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Back in the ’70s, when a pro surfer would sign a contract for wax, two t-shirts and a surfboard (that was Buzzy’s first sponsorship with Local Motion), pros would do other bizarre feats. One of the original godfathers of big wave tow-surfing, Buzzy Kerbox, for example, took a zodiac out with Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner to outer reefs on Oahu…really, just to get away from the crowds. After a more lucrative contract modeling for Ralph Lauren, Buzzy got his kicks while in Europe paddling across the English Channel, as well as from Corsica to Italy, before returning to Hawaii where he and The Strapped Crew would change the face of big wave surfing at a little ‘ole spot called Pe‘ahi. In the newest episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell talks with Buzzy about simpler times, and what it might be like surfing Jaws before, well…anyone. Highlights: 0:00: Born in Indiana, raised in Kailua, Oahu at age 10, Competing against Michael Ho in the amateurs/pros, Inspired by Larry Bertleman, Got into the ‘74 Smirnoff Pro at Waimea Bay, Became a pro surfer by ’77, Sponsored by Local Motion, Got on the World Tour, Became a professional fashion model 15:43: Started modeling for Ralph Lauren/Polo, Bought his first zodiac boat to tow off modeling money, Started towing outer reefs to get away from the crowds, Began towing with Darrick Doerner and Laird Hamilton, Developed big-wave tow surfing with the zodiac, Pivotal session at Outside Laniakea 23:38: Transferring to Jet Skis to tow, Discovering Jaws, Going shorter and shorter with boards, Mishaps with the zodiac, Paddle surfers vs tow surfers, Analogy with snowmobiles, Word is out and Jaws gets chaotic 34:02: The safety aspect of Jet Skis, Trials and errors of early tow sessions, Using Brian Keaulana’s Rescue sled, Impact vests, Close-calls/Near death moments 46:56: The Strapped Crew era and keeping Jaws a “secret,” The film “Wake Up Call,” Good tow partners 52:52: Paddling the English Channel with Laird, Nearly getting hypothermia, Traveling Europe with Laird, Paddling from Corsica to Italy, Getting miles and nautical miles mixed up, paddling the Molokai Channel before it was a race 1:01:44: Buzzy’s photography, His new book, Buzzy’s take on modern big wave surfing today, The stars of Jaws in 2021 1:12:03: Buzzy’s 5-to-Finish This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

the vet that just can’t keep out of the danger zone… Welcome to Episode Six of Season Two of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include, Bob Pearson, Buzzy Kerbox and others. Stay tuned here for more. Speakin’ of Mav’s….Why not drop an episode of Jamie Mitchell (who recently charged the run of XXL swells to hit Maverick’s) with one of the OG water patrol and photographers to document Cali’s finest big wave arena? Enter: Frank Quirarte, a man whose byline you’ve probably seen on the best photos of Mav’s for the past 30-odd years. What many may not know of the man is his influence and loyalty to keeping the boys and girls safe out there -- year in and year out -- and much of that drive probably owed to his own military experience in his youth. Days before flying over to surf the subject of interest, Jamie Mitchell sat down with Frank in the newest episode of the Late Drop. 0:00: Growing up in Northern California not far from Maverick’s, Airforce experience, Becoming an EMT, Getting into photography, Managing the rescue team for Quiksilver,The merits of operating a Jet Ski from tow movement 15:35: Getting on retainer with SURFING mag, Training with the Coast Guard with first big wave safety, Building the Billabong XXL project, Traveling with Greg Long, Staring the Maverick’s Water Patrol/Rescue 28:31: The Growth of BWRAG, Era of Billabong Odyssy Trips, Big Wave rescue first/photography second 37:35: Frank’s favorite places to shoot, Shooting “Chasing Mavericks,” Shooting Nazaré 52:20: Frank’s expectations for this winter, More core surfers at Mav’s, The progression Frank has seen over the years, 1:31:56: Frank’s 5 to finish questions This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Jamie Mitchell, Pete Mel, Kai Lenny and Twiggy Baker: Mav’s, slabs, outer boils and bean burritos. Call it a debriefing. They’re normally required by military soldiers or spies after a completed mission — and any big-wave surfer surely knows that some sessions can feel like a war zone. That swell of the decade a couple weeks ago at Maverick’s? Yeah, that deserved a debrief. So in this very special episode of the Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell patched in Peter Mel, Kai Lenny and Grant Twiggy Baker to get an in depth and very entertaining talk about what exactly went into that day. From forecast to flights, prep to warmup sesh, first wave jitters to “we could’ve been deepers.” Grab a beverage and join these four fascinating men. Pardon Twiggy’s formal attire, and around minute 16:35, notice Peter Mel’s face as Kai Lenny describes an unnamed guy that passed out all 20 of his coveted Taco Bell bean burritos. Show Highlights 0:00:00 Pete on forecasting this legendary swell, Twig and Kai on their decisions to fly to Mav’s for the swell, Kai on not red-eyeing the flight there, Pete/Twig/Kai’s preparation processes for Maverick’s 18:25 Kai’s warmup process at a wave like Maverick’s, Everyone’s first thoughts when arriving, Luca Padua’s wave, Twiggy’s epic biggest wave he’d ever caught, The outside bowl 39:21 Pete on that critical “first wave,” Pete and surfing with his two sons out there, Pete’s session the following day 47:07 Kai’s best ride that day, Jamie thinking they could’ve sat deeper 55:20 Twiggy’s equipment choices that day, 10’0”s vs 9’4”s, Pete’s equipment choices, Kai’s equipment choices/windsurfing synergy 1:08:40 Young kids they saw that impressed them, Jamie’s take on the generational performance at Mav’s 1:17:19 Who got the best wave that day… This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

The thing about Kai Lenny, one of the greatest watermen the world has ever known, is that Kai is unapologetically…Kai. He’ll tell you that he wants catch the biggest wave ever surfed on the planet, and in the same breath, tell you that he’d like to surf Shipstern’s Bluff specifically so he could try a chop-hop down that infamous Shipstern’s step. No shame in Kai’s game. With a first name that literally means “ocean” in Hawaiian, and Waterman as his middle (it’s actually an old German family name), it’s like Kai was born to be great. Recently dropping his new series with Red Bull “Life of Kai,” which shows all the struggles and trips it takes to get to greatness, Jamie Mitchell sat down with the man in the newest episode of the Late Drop. Show Highlights 0:00: The recent giant Nazare swell, Seeing the biggest waves he’d ever seen there, Towing with Lucas, Ian and Maya during that swell, The difference between Nazare’s power and other big waves 21:33: Risk vs reward in certain big waves, Smaller period bigger swell sessions, The Jaws swell in 2012 that Shane Dorian starred in, Surfing banned at Nazare at moment 30:58: Kai’s backstory, growing up on Maui, Maui as an epicenter of ocean sports, Watching Jaws, Laird as a kid and becoming obessed with the wave 42:33: The next generation of Kai Lennys on Maui, The guys Kai considered superheroes as a kid in big waves, The moment Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama invited him out to Jaws as a kid, The genius of Dave Kalama, Rush Randall inspiration, Robbie Naish 59:17: Becoming your own person, Achieving your personal goals, Not letting ego get in your way 1:02:22: Sharing the spotlight when towing a partner, the joy of sharing the big wave experience, Homeschooling vs normal school, Sacrificing school to travel for career, Being sponsored as an “alternative surfing” athlete 1:13:15: Teaming up with Red Bull young and filming his life, Kai’s new “Life of Kai” series, Where big-wave surfing is headed in next 5 years, Wanting to be the best big-wave surfer in the world, Advice for the next generation 1:31:56: Kai’s 5 to finish questions This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

It would be easy to assume that most big-wave surfers have Nazaré-sized egos. And maybe, some very well do. One of the most revered, influential, and unassuming modern big-wave greats named, Nathan Fletcher, however, surely does not. “Out there…you can’t really have your ego up,” says Nathan. “You have to lose your culture, all your history, everything that you bring to the table has to be left on the beach because you’re dealing with you, and the ocean…” Preach. From pretty much giving up surfing to snowboard and ride dirt bikes during his teens, to changing the game at Teahupoo, Tahiti, to influencing generations of big-wave board design and safety protocols, the uncompromising Nate Fletcher blesses us with his wisdom in the newest episode of the Late Drop. 0:00:00 Global influence of Dad Herbie Fletcher, Herbie starting the JetSki movement, Different alternative parenting, Growing up a Fletcher, Quitting surfing as a teen and going to snow/skate, Finding his own path in the world 10:16 Motocross influence, Breaking something and getting to know fear in order to come back to surfing, Getting good at multiple disciplines 15:45 Gotcha Pro event in Tahiti, Quitting motocross to surf the event, Getting the wave of his life in event, Doing the Surfing Magazine Air Shows, Getting sponsored by Vans, 22:31 Becoming a heavy waterman, Using a helmet for safety, Tom Carroll’s helmet advice, Starting to tow then going back to paddling in in 1998, Using a life vest for big waves back then, Adrenaline as therapy 37:34 Big waves/Nature connecting humans to each other, Being in “the zone,” Vulnerability making you a better person, Quads on boards and Nate’s influence, Quads vs thruster vs twin fins in big waves 53:36 Giant Cloudbreak with Bruce Irons, Kohl, and Hippo, Tahiti Code Red Swell, The Wave of the swell and the wipeout, 1:06:16 Close call in Chile, Nearly drowning in Chile, His epiphany after that, Why he still surfs big waves, His realization 1:15:57 Nathan’s 5-to-Finish Questions This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Late Drop - The Big Wave Podcast: Jamie Mitchell Interviews Ireland’s Keen Tow Team Conor Maguire surfs, Barry Mottershead drives, Finn Mullen keeps everyone safe. In this latest episode of Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell shines a light on exactly how much hard work, intense preparation, adamantine teamwork, local communication and mental toughness goes into tackling an XXL swell at Mullaghmore — and that’s before you even hit the water — by interviewing the tow team heard around the world: Conor Maguire (surfer), Barry Mottershead (driver) and Finn Mullen (water safety). As detailed in this week’s Breaking News story, with a massive North Atlantic swell in the water this week, Ireland’s premier big-wave slab detonated in historic fashion. In fact, young Irish surfer Conor Maguire charged what was obviously the bomb of the swell — if not the biggest bomb ever ridden out there. “Finn Mullen, who’s an absolute local legend here, came onboard as chief of safety for this session and did an incredible job,” Conor told Surfline. “He got in touch with the coastguard, the RNLI. He’s clued in and doesn’t want to take any risks. We were in safe hands, and then we contacted Sligo County Council and got permission to surf. We had four skis, a paramedic on hand, and two spotters on the cliff. We couldn’t have been safer.” “The original idea was just to have respect for the locals and not to offend anyone,” Conor adds. “The headland was like an amphitheater – everyone was in their cars, adhering to COVID protocols, as were we. In the harbor with the safety briefing, we had masks on and all that stuff. It was pretty professional. And Barry Mottershead, he killed it driving. Poor guy, he was under so much stress. He had to take a breather afterwards in the channel. Everyone was chatting and he was, like, laid down on the ski about a mile out to sea, just staring into the sky [laughs].” This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Papa Moniz drops that local BW knowledge Welcome to episode 2 of season 2 of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast Presented by Futures Fins. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline each week — upcoming guests include Nathan Fletcher, Bob Pearson and others. Stay tuned here for more. Sure, with enough discipline and mental fortitude, you can learn how to catch a big wave, despite your geographic background or upbringing. But when it comes to that sheer desire, that profound hunger for the ocean’s truly terrifying faces…as Tony Moniz puts it: “You either have it, or you don’t.” Hawaiian father (and grandfather) of the wildly talented Moniz brothers and Sister, Tony’s always had that “it” for big waves. Also, that “it” for boxing and dirt biking and other thrills that can never be replicated by watching a six-inch screen. A continual Eddie Aikau Invitational invitee, childhood witness to The Duke, and true ambassador of aloha, Tony Moniz and Jamie Mitchell talk story in the newest episode of the Late Drop. 0:00: Tony’s childhood, Ocean/mountain heritage, Waikiki, Uncle Duke, Eddie as modern day Duke, Dream of the Eddie Invitational 13:22: A childhood of team sports, Racing motorbikes, Boxing, Not joining marines, Becoming a pro surfer 23:05: High adrenaline addictions, Following his heart, Going to Australia to compete, Going back to Aus with his son Seth, 35:24: Getting into big waves, First Waimea Bay board from Ben Aipa, Phantoms, Sunset/Pipe, Sparring partner Dane Kealoha, Tony’s big wave influences 47:04: Quest for 100-ft wave, Going to Kauai, Giant Makaha, Giant Rabbit Island 54:30: 1990 Eddie Invitational, Getting barreled in the comp, Brock Little’s approach/similarities with his own life 1:03:16: Similarities between old and new big wave generation, PSI vests, You either have it or you don’t, Significance of the Eddie Aikau event, Tony’s health update This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com

Catching up with the Notorious RCJ Welcome to episode 1 of season 2 of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — upcoming guests include Nathan Fletcher, Tony Moniz and others. Stay tuned here for more. Big-wave visionary? Middle-aged grom? Good Time Charlie? Screw loose? For one of the big-wave world’s most unforgettable characters, Ross Clarke-Jones is most likely all of the above. One of the first men to make an actual career out of big-wave surfing, RCJ’s love affair with Waimea Bay finally earned him an Eddie win in 2001 — maybe the most coveted of big-wave accomplishments. Simultaneously a tow-surf god, RCJ pioneered the unruly waters of Nazare, trading North Shore winters for European staycations. Stuck in Australia until further notice, Jamie Mitchell chats with the very vibrant and frothy Ross Clarke-Jones in the newest episode of the Late Drop. 0:00: Growing up on Central Coast, Childhood, Discovering drive for pro surfing, Getting on Quiksilver, State then Queensland Champion, Starring in “Mad Wax,” the cult film 15:52: Breaking through tour comps to get to big waves, Following in Kong’s footsteps, Getting to Hawaii, Billabong Pro at Waimea Bay on a 7’10”, Feeling at home in Hawaii, Embraced by Da Hui 27:14: Winters on the North Shore, The tow-in movement, Legendary swell of 1998, The accident with the Jet Ski 46:30: Relationship with The Eddie event, Finally winning The Eddie, The 2016 Eddie event 1:01:53: Relationship with Nazare, Posting up in Europe, Racing cars, Burgers and Not-Burgers, Getting sucked into Nazare cliff, Australian Survival Series 1:19:18: Ross’s 5-to-Finish Questions This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit jamiemitcho.substack.com