Unreserved Wine Talk

What were the key challenges and breakthroughs that shaped the BC and Ontario wine industries in the 1980s and 90s? What makes or breaks a new wine project, and why is finding the right vineyard often the most time-consuming step? What made Peter believe that Niagara-on-the-Lake could produce exceptional Chardonnay? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Ann Sperling & Peter Gamble. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Highlights What was Ann’s best memory from growing up on the farm? When did Ann and Peter know that they wanted to work in the wine industry? How did Ann and Peter meet? What was the first bottle of wine Ann and Peter shared? How do Ann and Peter navigate their interwoven personal and professional lives? How do they negotiate professional disagreements, and who chooses the wine for dinner? What were the major challenges and opportunities in the BC and Ontario wine industry in the 1980s and 90s? In the early days, how did Peter envision the future of Ontario wines? What are some of the reasons certain vintages almost didn't make it into the bottle? What do you look for when considering a new project? What makes Ann and Peter different from the stereotypical flying winemakers? What were the signs that Niagara-on-the-Lake could produce exceptional Chardonnay? How has working on a small, focused vineyard impacted Ann and Peter’s winemaking choices? Why must you suffer to make top-notch wines? Key Takeaways It was in the early 80s in BC and maybe slightly before that in Ontario, that estate wineries became a thing. Prior to that, that meant there were a few really large wineries, not really making estate or single vineyards. Vineyards were a source of bulk wine for the most part. The hunt for the vineyard became a very important one. We looked at over 230 vineyards before we found one. I think everyone there was on the verge of giving up on this, thinking “Well, they're not really going to buy anything.” Because we'd get it to a certain stage, then we do soil analysis, and we weren't quite happy, or we talked to people who had made wine from the vineyard or something would come up, and we just wouldn't quite be where we wanted to be with the quality of the vineyard. I often work on the basis of paradigms, where I'll take a look at a wine sold throughout the world and say, you know, I think this could be done really well in this area. You know what it is you might be able to accomplish within the parameters that you have - the obvious things, the terroir, the exposures to soils, the temperatures in general. About Ann Sperling & Peter Gamble Often referred to as the “power couple” of the Canadian wine industry, Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling have long pursued the pinnacles of wine quality in Canadian vineyards and wineries. Following her upbringing on her family’s Okanagan Valley vineyard, Ann turned to the soil for the character and complexity of her wines. Acknowledged as a Canadian pioneer of organic and biodynamic viticulture, ‘terroir’ was at the centre of her philosophy and she is renowned for her head winemaking roles at Malivoire, Southbrook, and Sperling Vineyards. Peter, a lifetime wine industry professional, has worked alongside Canada’s most passionate winemakers to achieve greater heights with our finest appellation wines. Since 2000, Peter has provided expertise in ultra-premium winemaking operations, including: Stratus, Ravine, Benjamin Bridge and Lightfoot & Wolfville. With the purchase of a top-flight ancient Malbec planting in Mendoza, Argentina, in 2008, Ann and Peter broadened their winemaking activities, but Niagara remains their cherished home base. Current focus is on these Niagara projects: On Seven, Lailey and Stonebridge Vineyards and Dobbin Estate. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/342.

Is a $400 wine really ten times better than a $40 one? Does the right glass really improve your wine and is it worth it when the size makes you look ridiculous? Why do wine labels matter and should the label’s look be part of every wine review? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Charles Jennings and Paul Keers, co-authors of the hilarious book I Bought It So I’ll Drink It. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of their terrific book,, I Bought It So I’ll Drink It. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! You can find the wines we discussed here. Highlights Why do we feel guilty about window shopping when it comes to wine? What's the worst wine gadget or gimmick Paul and Charles have encountered? How did a 1947 Sauterne create a bond between Paul and a French wine seller? What was their most triumphant wine deal discovery? Are there elements that expensive wine delivers, that bargain wines can't? Why are Charles and Paul suspicious of mixed cases of wine? Has the quality and perception of box wines changed? What's the strangest vessel Paul and Charles have drunk wine from? What was it like drinking wine at 10 Downing Street and Lambeth Palace? What was Queen Victoria's tipple like? Why does Charles love drinking on his own? Which current wine trends will we look back on as ridiculous? Which wines would Charles and Paul now pair with their favourite childhood foods? Who would Paul and Charles love to share a bottle of wine with? Why should wine critics write about wine labels in their reviews? Key Takeaways Charles and Paul believe there is a greater experience to be gained from drinking better wine, but that the return for your money plateaus quickly. If you go up from a £10 wine to a £30 wine, you will really notice the difference and have a tremendously greater experience. But then if you multiply that by 10 and go from £40 to £400, the difference in quality isn't that great. If I've got people around for dinner and I sit at the end of the table and everybody else has got normal wine glasses, I look like a complete plonker. And I'd love to sit there, “Oh, it's magnificent.” And they're going to think, what an idiot. So unfortunately, it doesn't get much use. It does enhance the taste of the Bordeaux, there's no doubt about it, but I'm so embarrassed sitting there drinking out of this thing the size of a melon that it really doesn't get much use. Charles and Paul mention wine labels because they think that they are ignored by most wine writers, and they're terribly important for two reasons. Firstly, because they're about the only marketing that most bottles of wine have, because we go into shops and that's all we can see, the labels. And second, if you're setting a table for dinner, you've invested in the table, in the dishware, the cutlery, the glasses to set up this beautiful thing. Why would you put a bottle of wine on the table - however it tastes - if it looks terrible? Wine critics should always say what the label looks like and whether it would look good on the table. About Charles Jennings & Paul Keers Charles Jennings and Paul Keers are award-winning writers based in London, England. Charles and Paul co-authored the wine blog Sediment, described by New Statesman writer and Guardian literary critic Nick Lezard as “the finest wine blog available to humanity.” The blog became the basis for their book, I Bought It So I’ll Drink It. Book-Prize-winning novelist Julian Barnes called it “The funniest wine-book I’ve read in a long time. Not just laugh-aloud funny but snortingly, choke-on-your-cornflakes funny – up there with Kingsley Amis and Jay McInerney.” Their book won the prestigious André Simon...

How does using everyday metaphors make wine writing more relatable? How has the pressure to be an expert in everything turned simple pleasures into social competition? Does buying your own wine versus getting free samples make you a better wine writer? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Charles Jennings and Paul Keers, co-authors of the hilarious book I Bought It So I’ll Drink It. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of their terrific book,, I Bought It So I’ll Drink It. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! You can find the wines we discussed here. Highlights How did Charles and Paul meet? What was the first bottle of wine they shared, and how did they realize they had the same approach to bad wine? What was it like to meet legendary wine critic Oz Clarke? When did Paul and Charles discover their love for writing? What were Charles and Paul's best and worst moments in their writing careers? How did their Sediment blog create a stir with the PR people in the wine industry? Where did the title “I Bought It So I’ll Drink It” come from? Did buying their own wines give them a different perspective than other wine writers who are given promotional bottles? How did the collaborative approach to writing I Bought It So I’ll Drink It work? Which writers have influenced Charles and Paul’s writing? Is the tension between wine snobbery and enjoyment unique to wine? What was the most pretentious wine moment Paul and Charles witnessed? How did Charles and Paul develop their distinctive vocabularies for describing wines? Which overused wine descriptors do they find cringy? What's changed about wine criticism or writing since they published their book? Key Takeaways Charles and Paul explain that they drew their descriptions from real life. There's a tendency in wine writing to use metaphors that you wouldn't necessarily experience. I mean, I've got a cat, but I really wouldn't use the term cat's pee in describing any wine. I don't know what cat's pee actually tastes like. Whereas if I talk about wine smelling of ink, well, people know what ink smells like, and it seemed more appropriate to use ink as an analogy. The authors say that everybody has to be a bit of an expert about everything these days. It’s not just a question of, “Oh, we've been to France, we've gone to Italy, we've made it to the United States,” or something like that. It's how you did it, and where you stayed, and what you did, and what tours you went on, and it's so full of itself. Then it becomes a transaction when talking with friends. As Charles and Paul think the fact that they did buy thei wine is quite fundamental to a difference between Sediment and other wine writing. They had to do the same thing, go out and buy it. Maybe that gave us a slightly different slant on wine buying and drinking as well. About Charles Jennings & Paul Keers Charles Jennings and Paul Keers are award-winning writers based in London, England. Charles and Paul co-authored the wine blog Sediment, described by New Statesman writer and Guardian literary critic Nick Lezard as “the finest wine blog available to humanity.” The blog became the basis for their book, I Bought It So I’ll Drink It. Book-Prize-winning novelist Julian Barnes called it “The funniest wine-book I’ve read in a long time. Not just laugh-aloud funny but snortingly, choke-on-your-cornflakes funny – up there with Kingsley Amis and Jay McInerney.” Their book won the prestigious André Simon Award. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/340.

How does biodynamic farming transform a vineyard into a thriving, interconnected ecosystem? What do wild orchids reveal about the health of a vineyard? How do France’s preschool lunches help to create a nation of gourmets? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Caro Feely, author of the terrific memoir Grape Expectations: A Family’s Vineyard Adventure in France. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, Grape Adventures. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights How did Caro’s daughter’s medical emergency shape her perspective on risk? Why did Caro feel like a bad mom in the early years of the winery? How has living in France influenced Caro’s approach to food and wine? When did Caro realize the wine business was becoming financially viable? What are some of the most interesting aspects of biodynamics? What’s the significance of wild orchids in a vineyard? Which wine would Caro pair with her favourite childhood food, marmalade on toast? Why would Caro want to share a bottle of wine with Al Gore? Key Takeaways As Caro explains, often biodynamics is just picked on as a woo woo, but really, it's about listening to your land and being present. Biodynamics is organics, plus. It's essentially three things: It's working with plant and animal-based sprays to keep the vineyard healthy, using the biodynamic calendar to do things at the right moment. It's about listening to what's going on in the sky. We all notice the sun, but all the other bodies in the sky also have an impact. Lunatic comes from the fact that the moon does have an effect on us. The final thing is to think of your farm as a whole farm system as a living thing where everything is connected. We can't just look at the vine on its own, like a unit of production. It is a living thing, and it is a vibrant living environment. Caro says that when they bought the farm in 2005, it was conventionally farmed. They started organic farming and in 2008 the wild orchids came back. The systemic fungicides had worked their way out of the soil. Essentially, our soil health was coming back. The mycorrhizae, the fungi growing symbiotically with the roots of the vine, helps them to extend their network, to get more nutrients. However, mycorrhizae will not be there if you're using systemic fungicides. Caro loves France's respect for food and for taking time to enjoy it. There’s a tradition in the country where everybody, no matter what they do, is somewhat of a gourmet and knows about food and wine. She thinks it does go back to schools with their three-course lunch when they're two and a half at preschool. About Caro Feely Caro Feely is a writer, yoga teacher, wine educator and organic farmer. She leads authentic, personalized and educative wine tours, wine courses, walking tours and yoga retreats near Bordeaux in France. She is a published author, an engaging speaker, a registered Yoga Alliance yoga teacher, a WSET* wine educator, and a professional with many years of workshop, presentation, teaching, and management experience. Caro offers accommodation, tours and yoga at her organic farm in Saussignac. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/339.

What makes vine growing and winemaking so physically demanding? What are the hidden dangers of winemaking that most wine lovers never hear about? Why are some winemakers choosing to label their wines as Vin de France rather than follow strict appellation rules? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Caro Feely You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, Grape Adventures. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights How did Oprah Winfrey influence Caro and her husband to follow their dream of owning a vineyard in France? What was behind the decision to leave their corporate jobs for winemaking, which was such a different career? Why did Caro choose Bordeaux and Saussignac in particular? What were the main criteria that Caro and her husband sought when choosing a vineyard? Were there any transferable skills from the corporate IT world that were helpful in running a winery? What was the most surprising hurdle Caro and her husband had to overcome to buy their winery? How does Caro handle the tension between making wines she believes in versus what will pass official approvals or market trends? Why did Chateau Feely want to be classified as Vin De France? How physically demanding is winemaking? What are some of the funniest and most surprising animal-related episodes that have happened at the winery? Key Takeaways As Caro explains it involves heavy machinery, tractors, attaching things to tractors, moving heavy pipes and other equipment around. Even hand picking grapes is a fairly active sport. Removing the vine shoots or suckers at the base of the vine is a big job and backbreaking. They don't want them to grow because they take nutrients from the grapes. Caro says that many wine lovers don't realize how dangerous winemaking is. There are four killers of wine makers. The first one was asphyxiation by CO2. In the fermentation, CO2 is created. If you don't have a way for it to get out of the closed spaces, you're going to get asphyxiated. The second one is falling from height particularly if a little bit of CO2 has escaped and made you a little lightheaded. The next one is machinery, so horrific things like falling into a harvest trailer. Electrocution because you're working with liquids and high electricity. Caro says that almost all of her wines are labelled Vin de France because she felt that so many of the appellation rules were not about the quality of the wine. She wanted to be free of those unnecessary constraints. For example, one biodynamic winemaker got kicked out of the appellation system because he had weeds under his vines. He handpicks his grapes so it actually doesn't matter if they're weeds under the vines. If you machine pick, the machine will kind of suck up the weeds. Caro would much rather have some weeds than have to use synthetic weed killer. Even when it comes to Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé and Premier Grand Cru Classé, some growers got more appellation points for having a parking lot for tour guests than they received for being certified organic. About Caro Feely Caro Feely is a writer, yoga teacher, wine educator and organic farmer. She leads authentic, personalized and educative wine tours, wine courses, walking tours and yoga retreats near Bordeaux in France. She is a published author, an engaging speaker, a registered Yoga Alliance yoga teacher, a WSET* wine educator, and a professional with many years of workshop, presentation, teaching, and management experience. Caro offers accommodation, tours and yoga at her organic farm in Saussignac. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/338.

Why is Rosé the go-to wine for celebrity-owned brands rather than Chardonnay or Cabernet? Why are the younger generations of wine drinkers choosing Rosé over red? Is the Rosé boom just a trend, or is its popularity here to stay? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Rasmus Emborg & Jens Honoré, who co-published the Rose Revolution. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Highlights What are the main differences between wines from Domaine Tempier and Domaine Ott? What makes some Rosé wines better for aging than others? How did Gerard Bertrand’s background influence his winemaking style? Which Provençal cuisine dishes pair best with the Rosé wines? Why do so many celebrities who come to the wine world choose to make Rosé? Which celebrity wines are worth buying? How has social media impacted the Rosé Revolution? What does the future look like for Rosé’s popularity? Why have more men started drinking Rosé? Which wine regions should wine lovers visit to immerse themselves in the world of Rosé? Key Takeaways Why is Rosé the go-to wine for celebrity-owned brands rather than Chardonnay or Cabernet? As Rasmus and Jens explain, Rosé is much easier to embrace for a broad audience. Rosé has a lot of lovers, but they don't have any enemies. So you can be a serious musician, a rocker, a pop star, and embrace Rosé. When you're just a celebrity and not a winemaker it's way more bankable and easier to market. We tried a lot of those wines and I'll tell you, some of them are pretty good, big bang for the buck. Brad Pitt, John Legend, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jon Bon Jovi, Cameron Diaz and Kylie Minogue Why are the younger generations of wine drinkers choosing Rosé over red? Rasmus and Jens observe that young people don't drink much red wine, but they drink a lot of white wine and Rosé because it's kind of like a celebratory wine. It's become a wine you kind of gather around. You don't disagree about it. You can’t be talked down to if you don't know the terroir, the grapes etc. If it's endorsed by a rapper or rock music or whatever, it enhances that experience. Is the Rosé boom just a trend or is its popularity here to stay? Rasmus and Jens believe that Rosé has established itself as a third wine category. We’ll still see the quality improve and higher price points. In France, 3 out of 10 bottles are Rosé, globally, it's about one out of 10. They are seeing a trend of Rosé taking market share from red wine whereas white wine is stable. About Rasmus Emborg & Jens Honoré Rasmus Emborg is a journalist who has worked in the media industry for over 25 years. He is the author of Beer Brothers (2019), about twin beer brewers Mikkel Borg-Bjergsø and Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø. He and his wife own a small vineyard in Provence. The grapes are mainly used for rosé wine, and the production takes place at a local cooperative. Jens Honoré is a photographer who has worked in the advertising industry for 30 years. In 2018, he published A Place to Dream for SOS Children’s Villages, and in partnership with Jens Vilstrup, he published the book, Farewell to a Black/White World about the UN’s 2015 Sustainable Development Goals. He has also contributed to Building a Dream about LEGO owner Kjeld Kirks Kristiansen’s realization of LEGO House. In 2021, he published The Right to Food about homeless people’s relationship with food. Jens lives in New York and as a wine enthusiast, has followed the trend of increasing enthusiasm for rosé wine with great interest. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/337.

How did Rosé get a bad reputation as not being a “real” wine? How did Marcel Ott revolutionize the world of Rosé wine? Why is Grenache a popular grape for making trendy pale Rosés? How do Rosé’s beautiful bottles both help and hurt its reputation? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Rasmus Emborg and Jens Honoré, the author and photographer, respectively, who have published Rosé Revolution. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Highlights How did Jens and Rasmus develop a love for Rosé? What does Rasmus find most satisfying about owning a vineyard? Why did Jens and Rasmus want to produce their book independently? Why did Jens choose to photograph the winemakers in black and white, using an analog camera? What was the most challenging aspect of writing Rosé Revolution? Why was Marcel Ott’s pioneering decision to treat Rosé as a wine in its own right so radical in 1912? Why did Rosé have such a bad reputation? What makes Grenache such a good grape to make Rosé? Are there benefits to the shape of the iconic Domain Ott bottles? What are some of the wildest bottle Rosé designs Jens found in researching Rosé Revolution? Why does Rasmus believe we’ll see more Rosé being sold in brown bottles in the future? What role do ultra-premium Rosés play in the market? Beyond great quality, what factors have made Whispering Angel so successful? Key Takeaways Rosé wine is made from red wine grapes, and it's the skin that gives color and tannin to the wine. If you let the wine ferment with the skin, you end up with a red wine. Rosé wine was produced as an afterthought, rather than with the intention to make it. This is part of why Rosé has had a bad reputation because it's been considered a byproduct. Marcel Ott was fascinated by Rosé wine because he thought that this was a wine that had the taste of the grapes most precisely. Marcel Ott was the first one to choose the variety of grapes that gave the best Rosé, to position the vineyards in the best possible way to make good Rosé and to choose the harvest time with the ambition to make the best possible Rosé. Grenache is a grape with thin skins and very little pigment so it brings little color to the wine. This is the kind of Rosé wine that is the most trendy these years. It’s pale, dry, crisp wine, what we call the Provence style. But also, Grenache has this natural sweetness that applies well to the Rosé wine category as well. Rosé, with its beautiful colour in a transparent, creatively designed bottle, looks great on the shelves in the liquor store. It looks good on Instagram. And I think this is a part of the popularity of Rosé. At the same time, it's also a reason why the bad reputation of Rosé wine remains with some of the wine establishment. At the same time, it’s much easier to recycle brown glass than clear glass. About Rasmus Emborg & Jens Honoré Rasmus Emborg is a journalist who has worked in the media industry for over 25 years. He is the author of Beer Brothers (2019), about twin beer brewers Mikkel Borg-Bjergsø and Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø. He and his wife own a small vineyard in Provence. The grapes are mainly used for rosé wine, and the production takes place at a local cooperative. Jens Honoré is a photographer who has worked in the advertising industry for 30 years. In 2018, he published A Place to Dream for SOS Children’s Villages, and in partnership with Jens Vilstrup, he published the book, Farewell to a Black/White World about the UN’s 2015 Sustainable Development Goals. He has also contributed to Building a Dream about LEGO owner Kjeld Kirks Kristiansen’s realization of LEGO House. In 2021, he published The Right to Food about homeless people’s relationship with food. Jens lives in New York and as a wine enthusiast, has followed the trend of increasing enthusiasm for rosé wine with great interest. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/336.

Why are major Champagne houses, like Taittinger and Pommery, spending millions of dollars to buy and plant vineyards in England? How did Brexit reshape the English wine industry, from barrels to picking grapes? Why does visiting the English wine country feel like uncovering a hidden secret? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Henry Jeffreys, author of Vines in a Cold Climate. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of his terrific book, Vines in a Cold Climate. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights Is England's greatest wine yet to be discovered? What makes Peter Hall of Breaky Bottom such a memorable and inspirational person? What is it like to visit English wine regions as a tourist? How can you make the most out of a trip to London as a wine lover? What was the most surprising historical tidbit about English wine that Henry uncovered while researching? Which significant milestones have signalled the improved quality of English wine in the past 20 years? What makes English winemakers different from those from other regions? If English wine is such a precarious venture, why have champagne houses like Tattinger and Pommery chosen to plant in England? How did Brexit impact English winemakers? What’s the biggest risk to the English wine industry? Key Takeaways Henry observes that Champagne is warming up and the concern is that eventually the grapes might not have enough acidity, so they're hedging their bets. He also thinks they are entrepreneurial. If you could bring your expertise and get it to work and make a great, great wine - which is what they're interested in - then, why not? Brexit had a big impact on the English wine industry. There was a hell of a lot of upheaval, but I think generally the industry has adjusted and worked out how they can bring things in. The cost, obviously, has gone into the wines, and we probably have to pay more. But I think all the problems have already been dealt with. It's all kind of factored in. Southern England, especially in the spring and summer, Henry says, is breathtakingly beautiful in a way that no other country is. There are beautiful little villages and hills and churches. It can be quite incongruous sometimes seeing the vines, especially if on a cold day when you’d expect to see horses and apple trees. Wine tourism is quite in its infancy at the moment, but it’s coming on strongly. A lot of wineries have realized that you can sell tourists wine without anyone taking a cut. So they’re beginning to take it a lot more seriously… have restaurants on site, really good tour guides. The potential is massive because most of the vineyards are within an hour and a half of London. About Henry Jeffreys Henry Jeffreys worked in the wine trade and publishing before becoming a writer. He’s a contributor to Good Food, The Guardian, Harpers Wine & Spirit, and The Spectator, wine columnist for The Critic magazine, and has appeared on radio, TV, and The Rest is History podcast. He won Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year in 2022 and is the author of four books, including Empire of Booze and Vines in a Cold Climate, which was shortlisted for the James Beard awards and won Fortnum & Mason drink book of the year. Along with Tom Parker Bowles, he hosts the Intoxicating History podcast. He lives in Faversham, Kent, with his wife and two daughters. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/335.

Is chalky soil really the secret to great English wine—or just clever marketing? What makes it so difficult for English wine to break into the North American market? Is it time for a classified system of English wine? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Henry Jeffreys, author of the award-winning book Vines in a Cold Climate. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of his terrific book, Vines in a Cold Climate. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights How did Henry become a wine critic for The Lady, a women's magazine? What was it light to interview wine pioneer Stuart Moss? How did Henry’s skepticism about biodynamics nearly cause a problem with Gérard Bertrand? What inspired Henry to write Empire of Booze? What was the most surprising thing Henry learned while researching the book? How did Henry’s first experience of English wine go? What unusual vineyard experience totally changed his perception? How much wine does England produce? Where are the main wine regions in England? Are the benefits of the chalky soils in certain parts of England overrated? Is it time for a classified system of English wine? Key Takeaways We always hear about the chalk or the White Cliffs of Dover. Do you think that has an influence or is it overrated? Henry thinks it is overrated and it was the story that sold. It was a good marketing angle, and they thought that it was the best place. He thinks almost everything else is more important than whether it's chalk or clay, and once you've got everything else right, then you can argue about that. Henry observes that selling to Canada and the US is quite complicated. If you sell to Japan, you can get just one person to import it. Whereas in North America you have complicated systems by state and province. You need somebody on the ground selling. Plus, Nova Scotia makes a similar style of sparkling wines. California has some pretty good sparkling wines. And then once the English bubblies land in the market, the price is pretty much the same as Champagne. Why would you unless you wanted something quite unusual, right? Henry says that there is now a PDO, or Protected Designation of Origin, a European geographical indication for one county, which is Sussex. But it's really too early for it, because they've only been making quality wine there for 30 years. The appellation contrôlée is, ideally, codifying hundreds of years of tradition. Plus, a lot of producers buy from different counties. So Nyetimber will have vineyards in Kent and Sussex and Hampshire. So that makes a nonsense of it. And also, there's sort of bits of Sussex that are very much like Kent, so you so there's no point drawing a line where the old county barrier is. It's like, it'd be like, sort of cutting the Médoc in half. It doesn't really make any sense. I think the only place where it makes sense is Essex, because you've got the soil. About Henry Jeffreys Henry Jeffreys worked in the wine trade and publishing before becoming a writer. He’s a contributor to Good Food, The Guardian, Harpers Wine & Spirit, and The Spectator, wine columnist for The Critic magazine, and has appeared on radio, TV, and The Rest is History podcast. He won Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year in 2022 and is the author of four books, including Empire of Booze and Vines in a Cold Climate, which was shortlisted for the James Beard awards and won Fortnum & Mason drink book of the year. Along with Tom Parker Bowles, he hosts the Intoxicating History podcast. He lives in Faversham, Kent, with his wife and two daughters. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/334.

How can a vineyard disaster become an unexpected opportunity to innovate? How does storytelling transform wine marketing? What innovative pairings go beyond red wine and red meat? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Sally Evans, author of the new memoir, Make The Midlife Move: A Practical Guide to Flourish after Fifty. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of her terrific new memoir, Make The Midlife Move: A Practical Guide to Flourish after Fifty. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights Are you ever too old to start over? How do we build resilience as we get older? How did Sally’s harsh initiation with the 2017 frost in Bordeaux shape her approach to winemaking? Why did Sally decide not to pursue organic certification? How did it feel to present Sally’s first wine in 2018 at Bordeaux's En Primeur? Which aspects of the story does Sally hope critics understand beyond what's in the glass? Beyond scores and medals, what forms of recognition have been most meaningful to Sally as a winemaker? What was it like to be sworn into the Confrérie des Gentilshommes de Fronsac? What was the steepest learning curve in selling a physical product like wine? How has Sally found creative ways to market and sell Château George 7? Why should you incorporate storytelling in marketing wine? How did Sally pivot to minimize the negative impact of COVID on the winery? What are some unusual pairings between vegetarian dishes and red wines? How do you know when it's time to move on from something you've built? What goals would Sally like to accomplish before selling the winery? Key Takeaways As Sally shares, she was still living in the southeast of France when the previous owner of her vineyard rang to tell her that the frost had destroyed everything. While now we have barrel rooms and we have thermoregulation, we made a decent wine and that proved the process. That was a good example of how in midlife we can look at something that looks really bad, something that's happened, and actually turn around and make something good out of it. Sally says that when she hosts wine tastings, she always talks about the occasions when they're going to drink the wine: I think there's one thing in marketing where you profile the customer but I think with wine, often it's around the occasion and what you're eating and who's over and so on. That's how we drink wine. We drink it for occasions. Sally observes that when we look at the back of most red wine bottles, especially from Bordeaux, it says drink with red meat: I thought, well, that's not really helpful. I have a very close friend, Wendy Narby, she and I sat down and said, red wine goes fabulously with veggie dishes and so we've done it as a passion project where we talk about how to pair plant-based food with different Bordeaux wines. About Sally Evans After an international corporate career based in Paris and the South of France, Sally Evans completely changed her life in her fifties. She created an independent winery in Bordeaux, completely on her own with no prior experience or knowledge of wine. She threw herself into wine studies, bought a parcel of mature vines with some dilapidated buildings and created a brand-new wine chateau. She now has a boutique winery, Château George 7, in Fronsac on the right bank of Bordeaux. Her wines win high critical acclaim from leading wine critics and publications and are listed in Michelin-starred restaurants and top venues across Europe and the US. Sally has also created a wine tourism destination for tastings and events, winning accolades for its exceptional wine experience. Alongside wine, her other passion is supporting women to follow their...

What’s one of the most challenging aspects of being a new winemaker in Bordeaux, especially if you’re a middle-aged foreigner who is making wine for the first time? How did the Bordeaux sub-region of Fronsac lose its fame after being a region favoured by French royalty? What if the only thing holding you back from a fresh start, a new project or a major life change is you? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Sally Evans, author of the new memoir, Make The Midlife Move: A Practical Guide to Flourish after Fifty. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Three of you are going to win a copy of her terrific new memoir, Make The Midlife Move: A Practical Guide to Flourish after Fifty. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose three people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights Which pivotal moment sparked Sally’s interest in learning more about wine? What was Sally’s career before wine? Why did she decide to transition into a wine career at 52? How is Make The Midlife Move different from other books of the genre? What was the most surprising insight Sally discovered while writing her book? What was the most challenging part of writing Make The Midlife Move? Where is Bordeaux, and specifically Fronsac, geographically located? Why has Fronsac often been overlooked in favour of more well-known regions? What made Sally choose Fronsac when deciding to start winemaking? What’s the story behind Sally’s winery’s name, Château George 7? How did Sally overcome the issue of magnum bottles with no capsules to fit? What was Sally’s most humbling moment in her winemaking career? Which unexpected challenges does Sally wish someone had warned her about in the early days? Why did Sally decide to expand into making white wine? What can you do to manage feelings of impostor syndrome? Key Takeaways What’s one of the most challenging aspects of being a new winemaker in Bordeaux, especially if you’re a middle-aged foreigner who is making wine for the first time? Sally notes that she didn’t realize just how much bureaucracy there was in France with the customs system and appellation rules around winemaking. There's a lot of rules which are good, but, there were so many rules. She also didn't really think through how long it takes to make a wine. So it's quite a long time that you're financing everything before you can actually start earning money. How did the Bordeaux sub-region of Fronsac lose its fame after being a region favoured by French royalty? Fronsac had the first wines that were produced and went up to the Royal Court of Versailles, but as time went by, areas like Saint-Émilion overtook Fronsac in terms of notoriety. When the climate was a little bit cooler as well, some of the wines tended to be a little bit more rustic, maybe not quite as ripe or as elegant as they could be. About Sally Evans After an international corporate career based in Paris and the South of France, Sally Evans completely changed her life in her fifties. She created an independent winery in Bordeaux, completely on her own with no prior experience or knowledge of wine. She threw herself into wine studies, bought a parcel of mature vines with some dilapidated buildings and created a brand-new wine chateau. She now has a boutique winery, Château George 7, in Fronsac on the right bank of Bordeaux. Her wines win high critical acclaim from leading wine critics and publications and are listed in Michelin-starred restaurants and top venues across Europe and the US. Sally has also created a wine tourism destination for tastings and events, winning accolades for its exceptional wine experience. Alongside wine, her other passion is supporting women to follow their dreams. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/332.

How does oak aging change wine and whisky flavour, colour and texture? What do glass, gears, and automatons have to do with the invention of distillation? Why is yeast such an essential tool in scientific research and wine production, especially in the face of climate change? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Adam Rogers, author of the New York Times bestseller Proof: The Science of Booze. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway One of you is going to win a copy of his terrific new book, Full Spectrum: How the Science of Color Made Us Modern. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose one person randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights What are some of the traits that new yeasts are being developed for? Why does sugar deserve the title of most important molecule in the world? How is human saliva used in the production of Chicha, one of the oldest types of alcoholic beverage? What is microbial terroir and how does it affect the flavour profile of fermented drinks? Why does Adam describe distillation as the apotheosis of human life on Earth? How does the process of distillation work? What is the most important thing we can learn from the alchemists? Is the shape of a distillation still important to the process? What's happening to spirits while they’re aging in barrels? Have there been successful innovations to age wine and spirits more quickly? Why do some people lose their sense of smell after a concussion? Key Takeaways When you're drinking whisky, and it's that beautiful amber color, that's all from the wood. It's completely clear when it goes into a barrel and it's brown when it comes out. So color is part of what changes, and all those flavours. In the process of aging, as the temperature goes up and down, the pores in the wood open and close. As they open, the liquid gets drawn into that layer inside of the wood, and then gets pushed back out. So there's this kind of back-and-forth process, which is why so many of the experimental attempts to accelerate the aging process use heat to try to cycle it faster. Distillation was developed in the first two to 300 years of the Common Era. People were starting to transform naturally occurring phenomena into a technology that could exist in a temple or in the home. Distillation is one of those technologies, along with a lot of automatons and the simple machines, gears, screws and the steam engines. Yeasts are a workhorse organism in laboratories because it’s very easy to change their traits and genetics. They share DNA with each other, and when they grow, they mutate very quickly. Generation to generation change. So you can use classic animal or microbial husbandry techniques to change them as well. This can become especially important as climate change changes the regions that are important to wine. About Adam Rogers Adam Rogers is a senior correspondent at Business Insider, where he writes about technology, culture, and the ways they overlap. Prior to joining BI, Adam was a longtime editor and writer at WIRED, where his article “The Science of Why No One Agrees on the Color of This Dress” was the second-most-read thing on the entire internet in 2015. Adam’s WIRED feature story on a mysterious fungus that grows on whisky warehouses won a AAAS/Kavli science journalism award — and led to his 2014 New York Times bestseller Proof: The Science of Booze. Adam is also the author of the 2021 book Full Spectrum: How the Science of Color Made Us Modern. He has also written for Alta, the Atlantic, National Geographic, the New York Times, Slate, and Smithsonian, and may be the only journalist to attend both San Diego Comic-Con and the White House Correspondents Dinner. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/331.

How does language about wine impact the way we experience and enjoy wine? How does reporting on alcohol science compare to other scientific topics? Why can yeast be described as a nano-technological machine? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Adam Rogers, author of the New York Times bestseller Proof: The Science of Booze. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway One of you is going to win a copy of his terrific new book, Full Spectrum: How the Science of Color Made Us Modern. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose one person randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights What was Adam’s experience at a fancy restaurant in Chicago where food critic Jeffrey Steingarten was a fellow patron? How did a New York restaurant experience expose Adam to the wild science of winemaking? Why did Adam nearly have an existential moment while writing about the science of grapes? How does reporting on alcohol science compare to other scientific topics? Which moments did Adam want to capture in the book? What were the most surprising insights Adam uncovered while writing Proof and what was the most difficult part of writing it? Why does Adam describe yeast as a nano-technological machine? Which facts about yeast did Adam find fascinating? What have archaeologists discovered about the role of alcohol in early human civilization? Which cultural approach to alcohol consumption did Adam find most interesting? How do modern brewers and distillers safeguard their yeast? Key Takeaways Adam recounts the story of the couple sitting next to him ordering a dessert wine. The diner asked, “Is that a Vin du Glacier or a noble rot?” The two different ways to make a sweet wine. Just the fact that the diner was informed enough to know that there were these two methods would have a bearing on what he would be tasting. Here was this person operationalizing that interest to make his meal better. He wanted to have more fun. If you're reporting on science, you have the scientists trying to understand something new or reinterpret understanding and then there are people who that's going to affect. With winemaking, you have practitioners who are often not themselves, scientists. So they are craftspeople in a stakeholder role too. Louis Pasteur said I think there is an impossibly small, invisible, living creature that eats sugar and poops alcohol, and so the best chemists in the world at that time looked at that as a hypothesis and said, You're nuts. Nobody knew how inert chemicals could be alive. Nobody knew what the connection was. Those things are enzymes and understanding what enzymes do in a living body, that's what gave rise to biochemistry, and ultimately gave rise to biotechnology. That one insight. About Adam Rogers Adam Rogers is a senior correspondent at Business Insider, where he writes about technology, culture, and the ways they overlap. Prior to joining BI, Adam was a longtime editor and writer at WIRED, where his article “The Science of Why No One Agrees on the Color of This Dress” was the second-most-read thing on the entire internet in 2015. Adam’s WIRED feature story on a mysterious fungus that grows on whisky warehouses won a AAAS/Kavli science journalism award — and led to his 2014 New York Times bestseller Proof: The Science of Booze. Adam is also the author of the 2021 book Full Spectrum: How the Science of Color Made Us Modern. He has also written for Alta, the Atlantic, National Geographic, the New York Times, Slate, and Smithsonian, and may be the only journalist to attend both San Diego Comic-Con and the White House Correspondents Dinner. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/330.

What makes Sangiovese a difficult wine to grow and make? Why should you pay attention to the white wines of Tuscany? What do you need to know about Tuscany’s Vin Santo? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Susan Keevil You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Tales from the Heart of Italy. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights What are some common mistakes people make when comparing Tuscan wines to those from other regions? What are Super Tuscans and how did they come to be? Why did these rebel wines capture the imagination of the world in the 70s and 80s? What’s the new Super Tuscan counter culture about? Why did Brunello di Montalcino achieve icon status? What makes Sangiovese difficult to grow and why doesn’t it tend to thrive in North America? What motivated Susan to include sections on Tuscan white wines and Vin Santo in the book? How is Vin Santo made and why is there so much variety? What makes Tuscan olive oil so special? How can you best pair Tuscan wines with food? Why would Susan love to be able to share a bottle of wine with Queen Elizabeth II? Key Takeaways Susan notes that Sangiovese is like Pinot Noir in that it likes certain terroir, particular soils, the winds of Tuscany, and it is quite a sensitive grape. You can't overproduce it. It responds differently to different sites and it's not good in every vintage. It has so many parallels with Pinot Noir. They don't taste the same, but they behave the same. Susan likes an underdog story like the white wines of Tuscany, because they're only like 10% of the wines produced, though she believes that the Trebbiano grape is like the evil twin. In the book, Emily O'Hare writes about grapes like Vernaccia, Vermentino and Ansonica that are producing some great wines so we should watch out for them. There's another lovely story about wines of the small island called Giglio. It was raided by the pirate Barbarossa, and he sent all the inhabitants away to be slaves in Constantinople. But he brought back people from a village in Greece, and they bought the grape called Ansonica with them and so those vines are still on the island today. Susan thinks white wines are going to be more important for Tuscany. If you're going to find a comparison, Susan says that Tokaji is a really good one, because it has that bracing acidity that the Italians love as well. But also, you can't generalize with it. It's a 3,000 year-old-wine, and every farm makes a different version. In the past, they used to collect these grapes because they couldn't handle all the olives and all the grapes all at once. So they would leave some of the grapes in the drying lofts, up in the roofs. They would dry, and concentrate, and the sugars would get sweeter. When everything settled in November or March or February, they would make a wine from these beautiful sweet grapes. And they all have their own natural yeast from the air. And they would seed that yeast into the wine, ferment, and then they would lock it up in its barrel and leave it for seven to eight years. It would shrink, it would ferment. It would stop fermenting. And then at the end of that time, they would open the barrel very carefully, and it was something magnificent, but very, very different. Each producer would have their own. About Susan Keevil Susan Keevil is the Editorial Director of Académie du Vin Library, where she has played a pivotal role in establishing and nurturing this esteemed wine publishing house. A former editor of Decanter magazine, she has dedicated her career to the world of wine, from editorial leadership to in-depth exploration of the...

How was Brunello discovered? How did the medieval sharecropping system help to shape Tuscany's wine landscape? What's the origin of the iconic black rooster symbol of Chianti Classico? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Susan Keevil, editor of the beautiful hardcover On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Tales from the Heart of Italy. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Tales from the Heart of Italy. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights What inspired Susan to take on the monumental task of compiling and editing On Tuscany? How is On Tuscany different from other books about the region? What was the most captivating wine story Susan uncovered while working on the book? What was the most surprising insight about Tuscany that Susan discovered while putting together On Tuscany? Why did the timeframe pose the biggest challenge in compiling the book? How did Susan discover and select literary gems about Tuscany from historic writers? Why was it important to Susan to write about the Etruscans? What surprised Susan about the ancient Etruscans’ relationship with wine? How did the medieval sharecropping system help to shape Tuscany's wine landscape? What role did the Medici family play in shaping the wine culture in Tuscany? What was the crisis of Chianti Classico in the 70s and 80s and how did it redefine the future of Tuscan wines? What's the origin of the iconic black rooster symbol of Chianti Classico? Why does Tuscany continue to dominate media and culture when it comes to wine? What’s the history behind the Chianti fiasco? Key Takeaways How was Brunello discovered? Susan says that from 1875 to 1930, the Biondi Santi family hid bottles of brunello bricked up behind a wall. So after the war, they had these wonderful vintages, and they could say, look how it's aged because they didn't know it aged so well at that stage. That was how the discovery of Brunello came about because they brought these cellared wines to feasts and grand occasions with politicians and monarchs. How did the medieval sharecropping system help to shape Tuscany's wine landscape? Susan observes that it made it beautiful to start with, because we're talking about small holdings. Small farmers gave 40% of what they produced to the owner, the feudal lord, but they had to eke out a living too. So they had their plot of vines, their plot of olive groves, and they put up their cypress trees to defend them from the winds. That gave the beauty to the countryside, because it makes it a jigsaw, it gives it texture when you look at the hills. That way of farming has set up the beauty of Tuscany that we know today. But of course, there was a lot of poverty that went alongside it. What's the origin of the iconic black rooster symbol of Chianti Classico? Susan explains that it came from the 14th century when Siena and Florence were warring as to who was going to be the most powerful of those two towns. They had an agreement that they would send out a horse rider - a knight - early one morning, and wherever those two knights met, would be the boundary between Florence and Siena. The Florentine horse rider set off really early, and they got to within 12 miles of Siena. So the black cockerel is all about strength and having the biggest area. About Susan Keevil Susan Keevil is the Editorial Director of Académie du Vin Library, where she has played a pivotal role in establishing and nurturing this esteemed wine publishing house. A former editor of Decanter magazine, she has dedicated her career to the world of wine, from editorial leadership to in-depth exploration of the...

What is unique about Famille Perrin in France's approach to running their family wine business? How do traditional wine families differentiate their brands and market their wines in a crowded marketplace? How has the Gaja family of Italy made significant contributions to winemaking and the Piemonte community? What is unique about Famille Perrin in France's approach to running their family wine business? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Fiona Morrison. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, 10 Great Wine Families: A Tour Through Europe. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights How did the Frescobaldi family make a massive impact on the arts in their transition from banking to wine? What were the Frescobaldi family's connections to famous figures like Dante Alighieri and Galileo? How has Angelo Gaja and the Gaja family made significant contributions to winemaking and the Piemonte community? Why is the Liger-Belair family’s vineyard often known as the greatest in the world? What is unique about the Famille Perrin's approach to running their family wine business? How has Álvaro Palacios proven Garnacha’s place as the climate change grape? How do traditional wine families differentiate their brands and market their wines in a crowded marketplace? Do these families view their wines as luxury goods? Key Takeaways How do traditional wine families differentiate their brands and market their wines in a crowded marketplace? Simplicity and being true to their roots are two key factors Fiona points out. The labels have become much cleaner and are much more sober these days than they were in the past. The Torres family of Spain have done huge amounts on climate change and carbon neutrality and regeneration. In fact, they are, once again, this year, the most admired wine brand. I think it's very important to show that you're paying your dues and you're doing research. It shows how much they are rooted in their heritage and their history. How has the Gaja family of Italy made significant contributions to winemaking and the Piemonte community? If you want to go and taste a Gaja, you need to make a contribution of 300 euros to their various charities they support. Piemonte is still quite a poor region, and so they want to give back to the community and to the area what they can. Of course, people who drink Gaya wines, which are very expensive, can afford to give a charity donation. It's quite unusual, but I think it's a good solution for them. What is unique about Famille Perrin in France's approach to running their family wine business? There are seven or eight children from the two brothers, Francois and Jean Pierre. Every single one of them has a job in the winery, with each handling a different aspect of the business. This solidarity between so many children, working together, laughing together, tasting together. This is a blueprint for how to run a family business. About Fiona Morrison MW Fiona Morrison is an international Master of Wine, author, writer and wine merchant who lives in Belgium and Bordeaux and holds both British and Belgian nationalities. She became a Master of Wine in 1994 after studying in America and France. Fiona is married to Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin and currently runs the Thienpont family wine merchant business in Belgium and France. The family owns three estates on Bordeaux's right bank: Le Pin (Pomerol), L'IF (St Emilion) and L'Hêtre (Castillon). Winner of several awards for her writing, including the James Beard Award, her latest book, "10 Great Wine Families", has been published internationally. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/327.

How do you tame a grape like Merlot which actually has higher sugar and alcohol levels than Cabernet Sauvignon? What’s the little-known history behind the cult wines of Le Pin in Bordeaux that sell for as much as $10,000 a bottle when first released and then go up from there at auction? Why is it an advantage to have many stakeholders in family-owned estates? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Fiona Morrison, author of the terrific book 10 Great Wine Families: A Tour Through Europe. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, 10 Great Wine Families: A Tour Through Europe. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights How did studying literature at the University of Exeter spark Fiona’s interest in the wine industry? How did Fiona meet her husband, Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin? What’s the history behind the renowned Le Pin wines? How would Fiona characterize the 2023 and 2024 vintages of Le Pin? What is it like managing the limited production and high prices of Le Pin? How Le Pin tames Merlot grapes into its highly sought-after wines? What were the challenges Fiona faced in writing about the Thienpont family of which she is a part? How does Fiona's book, 10 Great Wine Families, differ from other books on similar topics? Which aspects of Maurice Healy’s book, Stay With Me Flagons, inspired Fiona’s writing? What are some of the elements that characterize successful multi-generational wine businesses? How did Fiona choose which ten families to profile in her book? Key Takeaways How do you tame a grape like Merlot which actually has higher sugar and alcohol levels than Cabernet Sauvignon? Merlot is a grape that can be very fleshy, Fiona observes. It doesn't like hot weather. It likes to keep its feet wet. If you shade the fruit a bit and let the grapes ripen, this dappled light effect, then you get a lovely balance, and elegant wine. But if you crop strongly and take off the leaves, the wine can get quite vulgar quickly, very sugary, much more jammy. There's much more sugar and alcohol in Merlot than there is in Cabernet, which may surprise some people. So when we tame Merlot, what we do in the cellar is very little pumping over. We use infusions rather than pumping over and soaking the grapes to get the maceration, like when you’ve got your tea bag in your tea. You have to wet the cap so that it doesn't get dry and tannic. But you're just doing that. You're not punching down or anything like that. What’s the little-known history behind the cult wines of Le Pin in Bordeaux that sell for as much as $10,000 a bottle when first released, then go up from there at auction? As Fiona explains, Le Pin means pine tree. The estate was called Chateau du Pin before Jacques bought it in 1979. It's a fairy tale story. He had heard from his uncle, who had their sister estate, Vieux Chateau Certan, that a magical one hectare of land was coming up for sale. And the family thought it was too expensive to buy, so Jacques, who wasn't married at the time, said, well, one hectare, it's a vegetable garden, I think I can manage that myself. He started off very modestly with a barrel borrowed here, a tank borrowed there, and very artisanal winemaking. Then all hell broke loose in a good way with the release of the 1982 vintage which was tasted by top US expert Robert Parker and it became one of Parker's first 100 point wines. And the rest is history. Why is it an advantage to have many stakeholders in family-owned estates? Fiona notes that much of the book is about how you resolve family conflicts in a business and how you prepare the next generation to take over. She says that having lots of shareholders is actually easier...

Introduction Why is the Languedoc a hotbed of experimentation, and what does that mean for the wines you drink? What role have white and rosé wines played in the transformation of the Languedoc wine scene? What prompted the shift from mass-produced table wines to higher-quality appellation wines in Languedoc? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with author Rosemary George. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, Wines of the Languedoc. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights How did the Languedoc’s appellations come to be and why were they relatively late to the game? Why is ​the Languedoc a hotbed of experimentation, and what does that mean for the wines you drink? How did the monastic houses contribute to winemaking in the Languedoc region? What is the historical significance of the Canal du Midi? Which Languedoc food and wine pairings should you try? What role have white and Rosé wines played in the transformation of the Languedoc wine scene? What prompted the shift from mass-produced table wines to higher-quality appellation wines in Languedoc? How has the introduction of clay amphorae and concrete eggs influenced Languedoc winemaking? What changes does Rosemary expect to see in the region over the next 5-10 years? How can you make the most out of a visit to the Languedoc region? Which Languedoc wine would Rosemary pair with her favourite childhood food, baked beans? Why would Rosemary love to be able to share a bottle of wine with author Jane Austen? Key Takeaways As Rosemary explains, the Languedoc has far fewer rules and higher yields than other appellations or regions in France. People who don't want to conform to the rules can try different grape varieties. They also have the broad designation of Vin de France that allows for just about anything you want to do. It's the reputation of your name that sells your wine. She believes that Vin de France in the Languedoc from a grove with a certain reputation is going to be interesting. You may not like it, but there will be a reason why it's not conforming, for whatever reason. So that's interesting. Rosemary observes that the Languedoc produces twice as much Rosé as Provence. It's a large area, whereas Provence is quite small in comparison. Provence tends to produce very pale roses, and those specializing in rosé are quite special. White wines originally weren't important in the Languedoc, and the early appellations were red. But regions like Saint-Chinian and Faugères now produce white white wines in designated areas that weren’t recognized until 2004. Rosemary believes that it was probably the falling consumption of wine in France that prompted higher quality wines. When France used to drink a phenomenal amount of wine per capita, wine was produced by cooperatives aiming at bulk production. However, growers leaving the cooperatives want to do something more individual. They recognized they had some really good vineyard land. Some of the pioneers of quality included Gerard Bertrand, who started aging wine in barrels. That sort of snowballed. Newcomers are attracted to the area because land prices are not that expensive so you can buy vineyards. You can't do that in Chablis. About Rosemary George MW Rosemary George has been in the wine industry for 52 years. She passed the prestigious Master of Wine exam in 1979, making her one of the first female MWs in the world. In 1981, she started writing about wine as a freelancer and has subsequently authored fourteen books, including those on New Zealand, Tuscany, Chablis, Faugeres, the Languedoc and Roussillon. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/325.

What makes the Languedoc particularly well-suited for organic viticulture? How have the wines of the Languedoc evolved since the 70s? How do the wines of the Languedoc region of southern France differ from neighbouring Roussillon? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Rosemary George You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of her terrific book, Wines of the Languedoc. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights What was it like becoming one of the first women to earn the Master of Wine designation? How did Rosemary’s journey into wine writing begin? What inspired Rosemary's initial fascination with the Languedoc region? What do you need to know about the Languedoc region in terms of geography and how it fits into the bigger picture of French wine? Why is the Languedoc particularly well suited to organic viticulture? How does Rosemary’s book, Wines of the Languedoc, compare to other books about the region? What are the classic grape varieties and wines of the Languedoc? How does the Garrigue influence Languedoc wines? How does the Languedoc's maritime climate compare to other wine regions in France? What are the key distinctions between the Languedoc and Roussillon regions? Who are some of the more interesting winemakers that Rosemary has met in the Languedoc? How are Languedoc winemakers responding to new challenges due to climate change? Key Takeaways As Rosemary notes, the Languedoc has a lot of advantages for organic viticulture, especially the winds. So if it rains, the winds dry everything up pretty quickly. Rot is not usually a problem in the Languedoc. She adds that vintages are becoming more irregular than they were, but certainly it's a lot easier to be organic in the Languedoc than it is in say Chablis. In the Languedoc, for red wine, Rosemary says, you have Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. Syrah and Mourvèdre were grape varieties that were planted in the 70s, 80s. It’s what they called the cépages améliorateurs, the improving grape varieties. It was thought the Carignan needed to have something else added to it. Now, I think there's a trend. People realize how good Carignan is, especially with climate change coming into effect. It will make some really good wine. There's a bit of spice, bit of red fruit, there's a bit of freshness, there's some acidity and as well as tannin. The Languedoc region of southern France and neighbouring Roussillon are completely different, Rosemary observes, because Roussillon was part of Spain until the Treaty of the Pyrenees. They see themselves as Northern Catalonia. The Pyrenees for Roussillon is a unifying thing, and it does not divide them from Spain, it unites them. Whereas Languedoc speaks Occitan, and it has a different history. And the wine makes them different because the key grape variety of Roussillon is Grenache, and that was also used for Vin Doux Naturel, fortified wines that like Banyuls and Maury and Rivesaltes. They're matured in barrel and last for for years. One of the great wines in the world and totally underappreciated. The Languedoc doesn't have that tradition to the same extent. About Rosemary George MW Rosemary George has been in the wine industry for 52 years. She passed the prestigious Master of Wine exam in 1979, making her one of the first female MWs in the world. In 1981, she started writing about wine as a freelancer and has subsequently authored fourteen books, including those on New Zealand, Tuscany, Chablis, Faugeres, the Languedoc and Roussillon. To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/324.

What are some of the significant contributions that Greece has made to the world of wine? How does the Greek volcanic island of Santorini produce wines of stunning depth and freshness at the same time? How are Greek wines shifting the perspective on what’s possible for warm climate wines? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Master of Wine Konstantinos Lazarakis. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of his terrific book, The Wines of Greece. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at natalie@nataliemaclean.com and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck! Highlights What are some of the significant contributions to wine made in Greece? What are some of the unique and complex terroirs found in Greece for wine production? How do Santorini's wines achieve both incredible depth and freshness? What are the hallmark characteristics of Assyrtiko grapes, and how does the wine pair with food? How does the tasting experience of Moschofilero compare with that of Assyrtiko? What should you know about Greece’s flagship red grapes, Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro? Which regions are a must-try in your exploration of Greek wines? How was Retsina developed, and why does Konstantinos think it’s one of the greatest hopes for the Greek wine industry? How did the Greek financial crisis impact and improve the Greek wine industry? What are some of the opportunities and challenges in the future of Greek wines? Key Takeaways As Konstantinos observes, Greece was not the first to make wine or even the first to have a God that is dedicated to wine, but we did a lot of things for the first time: the first appellations or regions, sommeliers, wine writers and tastings. For the Greek symposia, the whole format of consuming wine was essential in making sure that symposia were an amazing celebration of the human intellect, and the bringing together of ideas. Konstantinos explains that because Santorini is a volcanic island it has a young soil that’s coarse. The vines grow on their own roots, but above ground, it's very windy, extremely hot, so the vines have to kept low on ground to capture a little humidity and be protected from the wind. They trained these vines as baskets by weaving the vine canes over years. Everything that is on the periphery is torn apart by the wind, but then you have only the middle that survives. Every about 30-40 years, the basket gets too bulky, so it's chopped apart and a new cane from the old root system starts a new basket. The root system is four hundred years old. For context, he adds, four centuries ago, Bordeaux was a swamp. Konstantinos says that many people believe that a cool climate wine is superior to a warm climate one. But warm climates can produce amazing wines. Greece has a lot of places that are cold, even more so than the Loire Valley in France. Over the years, the Greeks selected grapes with full flavors at lower levels of alcohol. About Konstantinos Lazarakis MW Konstantinos Lazarakis MW is the first person in Greece to have passed the notoriously difficult Master of Wine exams. He is the author of Wines of Greece, published by Academie du Vin. As well, he serves as the President of Wines & Spirits Professional Center, General Manager of Aiolos Wines and CEO of Wine Wonders. Bonus Interview Highlights – Matt Cauz How do I distinguish between sexist, sexy, and sexual writing? What are some strategies you can try to avoid using wine as a coping mechanism? What trends are emerging around generational differences in wine consumption? Why is it important for us to vote with our dollars when it comes to producers accused of misconduct? What are the best wine pairings for different types of chocolate and holiday dinners and celebrations To learn more, visit...