The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese professional climber and a living legend. We talked about visualizing his onsight attempt on The Salathe, channeling support into power, Daniel Woods, Mount Kinabalu, Japanese vs. Western culture, quitting school to climb, owning climbing gyms, how to stay 9a fit in your 50s, the secret to staying young, and much more. Rúngne: rungne.com/pages/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Chilipad: checkout.sleep.me Use this link for 20% off any of Chilipad's sleep cooling systems. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. YouTube Videos: youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing Check out my latest training tip videos and be sure to subscribe! Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yuji-hirayama Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:10) – The Professionals film (00:12:30) – Attempting to onsight the Salathe (00:22:04) – Channeling support into power (00:30:26) – Challenge, change, & Daniel Woods (00:36:53) – Mount Kinabalu (00:50:23) – How Yuji has changed (00:57:15) – Why Yuji climbs (01:03:40) – Japanese vs. Western culture (01:09:35) – Yuji’s parents (01:11:58) – Early climbing (01:14:22) – Running (01:19:05) – Quitting school to climb (01:24:20) – Who inspires Yuji (01:28:02) – How climbing has changed (01:31:16) – Owning gyms (01:40:33) – Karaoke (01:41:18) – Wine, Dine, & Climb (01:43:07) – Staying 9a fit in your 50s (01:47:03) – Japanese focus on hard climbing (01:48:54) – The next trip (01:51:33) – The secret to staying young (01:55:32) – Wrap up

Eric Edmeades is often referred to as the “Indiana Jones” of the professional speaking world. He has been traveling to Africa to visit the Hadza, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups, since 2007. We talked about rites of passage, how ancestral living solved his health issues, lessons from his time with the Hadza, how to overcome evolutionary mismatch in Western society, founding WILDFIT, and much more. You can learn more about Eric at eric.ee Maui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet) mauinuivenison.com/steven Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer) Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep system Headspace (Meditation App) Try it for Free for 14 Days Support the Podcast Directly patreon.com/somethingdiffpod Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-edmeades Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:19) – Homeless as a teenager (00:05:45) – Rites of passage (00:15:10) – Building resilience (00:19:27) – Health journey (00:26:11) – The US medical system (00:29:33) – Changing his diet (00:33:33) – The Hadza (Hadzabe Tribe) (00:37:58) – Evolutionary mismatch (00:43:32) – What the Hadza eat (00:51:45) – Healthy kids (00:57:43) – Food psychology (01:00:46) – Should we eat like the Hadza? (01:10:34) – Frightened primates (01:17:52) – 3 seasons of eating (01:30:01) – Winter for the Hadza (01:31:51) – Vegetables & tubers (01:36:37) – The evolution gap (01:40:05) – Movement & the lymphatic system (01:45:02) – Executive function (01:50:07) – What life’s about (01:55:52) – Contentment (02:03:16) – Rest & leasure (02:05:47) – Unconditional love (02:08:42) – WILDFIT (02:15:40) – How to connect with Eric (02:17:49) – Be the captain

Seneida Biendarra is the 2023 US National Champion in the women’s B2 (severely blind) category. We talked about losing her vision as a teenager, her current visual experience, creating mental maps of the world, finding freedom in risk, designing outdoor gear, the world of paraclimbing and the adaptive community, sight guiding, the empathy gun, embracing chapters in life, and much more. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/seneida-biendarra Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:00) – 1950s appliances (00:05:08) – A fresh start (00:07:49) – Seneida’s visual experience (00:10:00) – Losing vision (00:17:02) – The map (00:19:38) – Visual experience continued (00:23:35) – An invisible disability (00:25:56) – Daily living vs. climbing (00:29:44) – Meeting other blind climbers (00:36:08) – Crashes (00:39:34) – Risk & freedom (00:44:48) – Early climbing (00:48:32) – An onsight philosophy (00:52:19) – Visualization (00:55:09) – Lights out (01:01:49) – Accessibility tools & basketball (01:05:59) – Designing gear (01:13:06) – Parents & childhood (01:17:08) – Backpacking (01:19:21) – Daily living continued (01:28:55) – Nate (01:31:10) – Sight Guiding (01:37:40) – The world of paraclimbing (01:41:28) – 2028 Olympics (01:46:09) – Identity & community (01:49:51) – Mourning, normalizing, & sympathy (01:53:31) – How to be a supportive sighted person (01:56:25) – Empathy gun (02:01:09) – Parts of ourselves (02:04:45) – Interpersonal bonds (02:12:39) – Embracing chapters (02:18:53) – Self-driving taxis (02:21:55) – Spotlighting the adaptive community (02:26:12) – “You belong more than you think you do.” (02:29:45) – New designs

Dr. Cate Shanahan, MD, has been studying vegetable oils since 2002. We talked about her background in biochemistry and what plastics have to do with seed oils, Henry Ford’s role in the history of seed oils, fatty acid chemistry and oxidation, how to avoid parkinsons and improve your mental health, her thoughts on sugar, fruit, and juice, the Hateful Eight, what Dr. Cate eats in a day, her new book Dark Calories, and more. Audible (Listen to Dark Calories & Other Audiobooks) Try Audible Free for 30 Days Headspace (Meditation App) Try it for Free for 14 Days Thrive Market (Organic, Healthy Grocery Delivery) Get $60 in Free Groceries AquaTru (Premium Water Filters) Get $100 off any AquaTru system Support the Podcast Directly patreon.com/somethingdiffpod We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/cate-shanahan Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:56) – Dr. Cate’s education background (00:07:52) – Polymerization & seed oils (00:12:46) – Athletic background & health issues (00:15:04) – What a healthy diet really is (00:16:28) – Why do people defend seed oils? (00:27:19) – The smoking analogy (00:30:46) – A brief history of seed oils (00:42:40) – Edward Bernays (00:43:14) – Fatty acid chemistry & oxygen (00:49:30) – Oxidation & oxidative stress (00:56:55) – Rust, autophagy, & chronic disease (01:00:32) – Changing your diet to prevent Parkinson's (01:02:11) – Sugar & refined flour (01:05:51) – Mental health (01:10:41) – Sugar continued (01:14:38) – Fruit, juice, & old food (01:20:56) – The Hateful Eight (01:24:22) – Clean Bite app (01:25:54) – Palm, olive, avocado, & coconut oil (01:27:34) – Adulterated food (01:31:00) – What Dr. Cate eats in a day (01:34:14) – Ancestral eating & Deep Nutrition (01:35:00) – Her next course (01:35:28) – Where to find Dr. Cate

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing looks like, his go-to gear, how his big toe saved his life, the untapped potential in Canada, the reward of establishing and sharing new climbs, undone projects, the logistics of visiting The Nooks, his upcoming film The Developer, and much more. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. The GRINDS Program: thenuggetclimbing.com Enter your email to get a free PDF and log sheet Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brendan-baars Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:10) – Capentry (00:05:52) – Steven’s cabin (00:07:06) – Intro to climbing (00:10:03) – Weekend warrior (00:17:14) – Discovering The Nooks (00:20:51) – Goldmine (00:23:12) – “This is sick” (00:28:50) – Years of potential (00:34:47) – Summer & bugs (00:38:22) – Weather (00:40:01) – A new avenue & a sacrifice (00:50:02) – Sharing The Nooks (00:55:10) – A day of developing (00:57:01) – Custom backpack (01:01:51) – Big Toe (01:09:07) – Rope systems & ladders (01:12:30) – The Developer film (01:18:25) – Rock type & style (01:20:47) – Elliot Lake (01:33:39) – Logistics & amenities (01:36:42) – Guidebook & KAYA (01:39:06) – The Croc Block (01:41:54) – Top Nooks Boulders (01:47:56) – Hard projects (01:51:31) – More Nooks info (01:54:38) – The Canadian frontier (01:57:43) – Wrap up + EXTRA teaser

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more. The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com The NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-bergey Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:24) – When to call it on a project (00:08:40) – Summer mode (00:10:27) – The Martin Keller approach (00:14:34) – Steven’s approach (00:17:53) – The outdoor gear (00:24:10) – Anthem (00:29:26) – Adapting to fingery climbing (00:33:26) – Diet (00:37:16) – Thoughts on keto & carnivore (00:42:38) – Still improving (00:43:59) – TB2 (00:49:35) – More about diet (00:58:12) – Sleep (01:02:20) – Snacking & when he climbs (01:03:36) – Work & night climbing (01:09:08) – Light tips (01:11:49) – Tea & coffee (01:15:59) – Put in the time (01:18:56) – Suspend your disbelief (01:21:16) – Pivotal moments (01:28:59) – Wrap up

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician and his own health journey, as well as the origins of allopathic medicine, seed oils and the hydroelectric dam analogy, what’s wrong with rodent studies and nutrition research, how to eat for optimal energy, leanness and performance, longevity in sports, setting 90 years of goals, the politicization of health, finding self-love, and much more. You can learn more about Justin at justinnault.com/steven Maui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet) mauinuivenison.com/steven NADS (Men's Organic Cotton Underwear) Use code STEVEN for 15% off NADS Headspace (Meditation App) Try it for Free for 14 Days Support the Podcast Directly patreon.com/somethingdiffpod We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-nault Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:04:04) – Justin’s life as a professional musician (00:08:10) – The costume (00:13:34) – Escapism (00:17:58) – Rocketman (00:20:18) – Collecting data from childhood (00:24:46) – Masochistic fitness (00:28:31) – Justin’s niece (00:33:52) – The origins of allopathic medicine (00:35:23) – The limitations of nutrition science (00:37:20) – Seed oils (00:41:44) – The hydroelectric dam analogy (00:46:38) – PUFAs, Omega-6s, & Omega-3s (00:48:31) – Hyperphysiological doses, & fat loss (00:54:37) – A cheap way to check your metabolic rate (00:56:17) – What happened to Primal Kitchen (01:01:24) – Capitalism is demand-driven (01:05:28) – Whose funnel am I in? (01:08:44) – Justin’s staple foods (01:10:59) – Cholesterol & thyroid health (01:19:21) – Carbs & saturated fat (01:24:20) – Calories, paleo, & metabolic rate (01:30:01) – Food is data (01:33:17) – Energy flux (01:38:06) – No more sugar cravings (01:41:17) – Architect of freedom (01:45:45) – Thyroid, carb sources, & dairy (01:49:11) – Fiber & blood glucose (01:50:16) – Sugar (01:57:07) – Fructose & fruit juice (01:59:24) – Rodent studies & nutrition research (02:04:41) – The illusion of authority (02:10:07) – The politicization of health (02:13:56) – Covid (02:21:56) – A journey of self-love (02:33:44) – Psychadelics & non-duality (02:37:46) – Is it working (02:45:07) – Top 5 daily prometabolic habits (02:48:49) – Equatorial living (02:51:33) – Leanness & performance (03:00:54) – Longevity in sports (03:03:16) – Justin’s athletic life (03:05:32) – 90 years of goals (03:08:05) – Where to find Justin

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version of yourself, his ideal training week, recovery tips, cardio, his optimistic view of climbing media, his goal to be intentional in all things, projecting tactics, hard projects in WA and Chile, and much more. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide. The GRINDS Program: thenuggetclimbing.com Enter your email to get a free PDF and log sheet Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/facundo-langbehn Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:00:57) – Breakfast & coffee (00:03:58) – Expression & language (00:06:39) – Climbing background (00:11:28) – Work (00:16:34) – Moving to Seattle (00:19:02) – Growing up in Chile (00:24:38) – Why (00:45:16) – The mental battle (00:51:12) – Exposure to hard boulders (00:55:00) – Hard projects in WA & Chile (00:57:48) – Scarcity & value (01:02:10) – Childhood (01:08:00) – Fast-paced society (01:10:28) – The character behind climbers (01:12:13) – Better storytelling (01:20:21) – Intentional (01:24:53) – My approach to improving (01:29:24) – Facundo’s approach to improving (01:35:35) – Projecting tactics (01:37:56) – Long careers (01:40:38) – Always peaking (01:44:05) – Facu’s ideal training week (01:51:15) – Recovery & cardio (01:59:02) – Best version all around (02:00:50) – Intentional continued (02:05:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast. You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

How important is fluoride for preventing cavities? And is it safe for us and our kids? Dr. Frank Zelko joins the show to tackle these questions. Dr. Zelko is a professor at the University of Hawaii and has a PhD in environmental history. He is currently working on a book about the history of water fluoridation and the latest research regarding its efficacy and health effects. Expect to go on a fascinating historical journey, and learn about the latest science so you can make your own decision about your drinking water. You can learn more about Dr. Zelko at manoa.hawaii.edu AquaTru (Water Purifiers) Get $100 off any AquaTru system PlantPaper (Non-Toxic Tree-Friendly Toilet Paper) Get 10% off PlantPaper NADS (Men's Organic Cotton Underwear) Use code STEVEN for 15% off NADS Ground News (Transparent News) Get 40% off the Vantage Subscription Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/frank-zelko Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:33) – Environmental History (00:04:21) – Becoming interested in water fluoridation (00:08:25) – My introduction to Frank (00:11:17) – Colorado Brown Stain (00:18:26) – Alcoa & indentifying fluoride (00:21:41) – Naturally occurring fluoride (00:25:41) – Cavities in the 1930s (00:28:06) – The sweet spot (00:30:54) – Fluoride waste & preliminary research (00:35:28) – Fluoride toxicosis symptoms (00:44:11) – Dentistry & carries (00:52:55) – Early health studies (00:56:14) – Adding fluoride to the water (01:00:31) – The Florida phosphate industry (01:06:30) – The push for fluoridation (01:17:19) – Scientific pushback & conspiracy theories (01:25:52) – Suppression of anti-fluoride research (01:28:32) – Parallels & pendulums (01:31:01) – More recent studies on fluoride (01:35:37) – The efficacy of fluoridation on cavities (01:41:43) – The fluoridation for low-income argument (01:42:40) – Where we’re at now (01:44:41) – Should we be filtering our water? (01:50:55) – Toothpaste (01:55:08) – Tea & other recommendations (01:58:42) – Politics & fluoride debates (02:06:27) – Vaccines & serious diseases (02:10:55) – PFAs, microplastics, & fire retardants (02:13:59) – Where to find Dr. Zelko

In this solo episode, I share a few thoughts on my episode with Kaizen Asiedu. I also talk about where I get my news, the state of legacy media, and plans for my new podcast, "Something Different".

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he’s lived in, the best budget options he’s found, essentials for $100 or less, heating systems, bathroom options, cooking tips, and much more. GSI Outdoors: Camp Stoves GoSun: Solar Coolers Outdoorsy: Rent a Van or RV for your next adventure! Ignik: Sustainable Campfire Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bob-wells Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:39) – Bob’s background (00:04:36) – Life before the road (00:05:38) – Bob’s shed (00:09:39) – Big city vanlife (00:15:38) – Full time vanlife (00:17:39) – First van (00:21:37) – Emergency bucket (00:23:41) – City-specific van tips (00:29:40) – Progression of vehicles (00:34:40) – Freedom on the road (00:38:40) – Most impressive setup (00:40:41) – Clever and unique setup (00:44:52) – Bang for your buck (00:47:57) – Avoiding burnout (00:51:52) – Dogs (00:55:56) – Bob’s future (00:58:57) – Practical advice for road life (01:05:53) – $100 or less essentials (01:07:54) – Heating systems (01:10:55) – Van or truck tent canopy (01:15:45) – Longest trip in one week (01:17:43) – Beauty of Moab (01:19:43) – Where to find Bob

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Maui Nui Venison: mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallum Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:16) – Unsynthesized (00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months (00:07:02) – Limit projects every day (00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler (00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport? (00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber (00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º) (00:19:10) – Board tactics (00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards? (00:26:14) – Getting outside (00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions (00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up (00:34:07) – A typical week (00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics (00:40:42) – 2 months on (00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths? (00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses (00:57:19) – The Spray layout (01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2 (01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard (01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2 (01:10:19) – Go-to shoes (01:11:36) – Working & setting (01:17:11) – Outdoor goals (01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet (01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside (01:31:57) – New board companies (01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature (01:38:59) – Dream lines (01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions (02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.be The NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Tindeq 👉 tindeq.com (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order) The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessens Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:00:57) – The North Pole (00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood (00:22:38) – Early climbing (00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs (00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain (00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives (00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance (00:57:24) – A healing sabatical (01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued (01:10:20) – Meditation (01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method (01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain (01:27:39) – Happiness within (01:33:55) – Meditation continued (01:38:45) – Love (01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences (01:48:52) – Long covid (01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training (02:02:53) – Visualization (02:09:24) – Low-load training (02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control (02:12:41) – Recovery tips (02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation (02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing (02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude (02:30:31) – Closing questions

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget Use code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalie Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:03) – Keith’s background (00:10:05) – Natalie’s background (00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study (00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs” (00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective (00:22:41) – Exciting new studies (00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”? (00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol? (00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness (00:57:00) – Recommendations (01:06:03) – A cautionary tale (01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics (01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity? (01:15:42) – Summary (01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies (01:19:25) – Wrap up

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out? Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodin Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment (00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing) (00:20:07) – High-Low training (00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity (The following topics are available for Patrons only) (00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice (00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments (00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up (00:44:35) – Building your own board (00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall (00:52:05) – Climbing shoes (00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment (01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment (01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss (01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging (01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights (01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro (01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more. Maui Nui Venison: mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Donate to Sacred Rok: Directly 👉 sacredrok.org Via The Nugget 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert-returns Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:02:14) – Chickens (00:06:18) – El Salto (00:07:36) – Outline of topics (00:11:27) – Katie’s climbing these days (00:18:38) – Getting more value from climbing trips (00:30:05) – How to continue progressing (00:33:55) – Training & cold plunge routine (00:42:17) – Perimenopause & menopause (00:52:28) – 40:30:30 & nutrition tips for climbers (01:05:35) – Katie’s thoughts on keto & carnivore (01:13:57) – Ingredients to avoid (01:21:58) – Starting Sacred Rok with Ron Kauk (01:35:28) – Getting kids to eat healthy food (01:39:07) – Farm to school (01:47:19) – Affordable nutrition (01:54:36) – Katie’s go-to carb sources (01:59:46) – Saturated fat, dairy, & best fats for cooking (02:02:10) – Seed oils (02:04:54) – Rapid fire questions (02:12:59) – Cathy Wagner’s scorecard (02:15:18) – Wrap up

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Rúngne: rungne.info/nugget-club 👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning. Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing (00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams (00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead (00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b) (00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers (00:30:08) – The Needles (00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil (00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins (00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time (00:49:59) – The Winnebago (00:52:50) – Making climbing holds (00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch (01:05:11) – City of Rocks (01:10:24) – Drawing the line (01:16:12) – Old school bolting (01:24:40) – Riggins (01:28:08) – Hideous Thing (01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing (01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym (01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days (01:43:13) – Listen to your body (01:46:17) – Respect your body (01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more. Rúngne: core-api.club.co/s/mgJAdCRcYDhTk 👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning. Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide. Mad Rock: madrock.com Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Arc’teryx: Women’s climbing clothing Men’s climbing clothing Check out the NEW Kragg Collection. AG1: drinkAG1.com/NUGGET Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’ (00:05:13) – Rock Stars (00:07:26) – Adam as a kid (00:15:14) – Unfinished business (00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects (00:23:50) – Untapped potential (00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As (00:31:17) – The Imhotep project (00:39:55) – Training for long boulders (00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing (00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado (00:48:40) – Patxi training (00:51:07) – Modern comp routes (00:54:29) – Feelings about comps (00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps (01:05:41) – The Olympics (01:07:40) – Speed climbing (01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall (01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics (01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock (01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career (01:32:50) – The monster within (01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes (01:38:50) – 8a at 80 (01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale (01:41:59) – Finger size (01:45:09) – Hugo (01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things (01:48:15) – What’s next (01:49:21) – Wrap up

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more. PhysiVantage: physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon) Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. Revival Climbing Coalition: revivalclimbing.com EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival) Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems. The NUG: frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug Check out my new portable hangboard. Tindeq: tindeq.com Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order. Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS: Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didier Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro (00:01:09) – Chiloé Island (00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching (00:06:30) – The Air Force (00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time (00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force (00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly (00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing (00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training (00:35:20) – India (00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids (00:53:54) – Sofia (00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile (00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn (01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer (01:06:46) – The complexity of strength (01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing (01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout (01:26:36) – Example training week (01:30:02) – Consistency & intention (01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process (01:47:27) – Believing in yourself (01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions (02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late (02:05:28) – How to find your passion (02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project (02:22:37) – Future plans (02:24:02) – Favorite training music (02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes (02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual (02:28:43) – Favorite rock type (02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016 (02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film (02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations (02:35:59) – Photography (02:38:04) – Patagonia (02:38:54) – Follow your dream