The TrainingBeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast-logo

The TrainingBeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast

Sports & Recreation Podcasts >

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
More Information

Location:

United States

Description:

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Language:

English


Episodes

TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

10/17/2019
More
I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

Duration:01:09:44

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

10/2/2019
More
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

Duration:01:07:37

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

9/9/2019
More
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

Duration:01:22:41

TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More

8/23/2019
More
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

Duration:01:10:24

TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries

8/12/2019
More
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

Duration:01:22:42

TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics

7/24/2019
More
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

Duration:01:27:45

TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons

6/28/2019
More
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.

Duration:01:07:07

TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity

6/12/2019
More
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

Duration:01:11:04

TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau

5/29/2019
More
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.

Duration:01:12:20

TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b

5/15/2019
More
I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.

Duration:01:14:37

TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months

4/2/2019
More
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.

Duration:01:10:06

TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months

3/26/2019
More
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

Duration:01:10:07

TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better

3/18/2019
More
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.

Duration:01:14:52

TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals

2/27/2019
More
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.

Duration:01:15:36

TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a

2/5/2019
More
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.

Duration:01:01:00

TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time

1/25/2019
More
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.

Duration:01:17:40

TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing

1/17/2019
More
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.

Duration:01:12:01

TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury

1/10/2019
More
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.

Duration:01:07:57

TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries

12/13/2018
More
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

Duration:01:43:03

TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan

10/26/2018
More
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.

Duration:01:09:27